I got myself a 3A Dimmer switch and have finally been able to flash it with tasmota, thanks to some help of @HoustonAU… Thanks Man!
The main problem was that my dimmer switch could not be flashed with Tuya-convert. HoustonAU’s info allowed me to solder on some cables and flash it over serial.
I have updated the Tasmota template page for 3A HGZB-04D with info on how to flash this over serial and included the link to the Ebay listing I got them from.
Hope this is helpful for anyone else.
Not sure if this is the best thread to ask this question, but seeing as I’m Australian-based I thought I would start here. Just starting my journey into ‘smart home’ conversion (I bought two smart bulbs from Officeworks and then all of a sudden fell down the rabbit hole 
) .
I am interested in getting some Shelly switches and dimmer (when it get Aus cert.) modules to control our existing lights from behind the the current switch panels, but I wasn’t sure about a couple of things.
Several of the lights I’d like to convert have a two-way switch setup (switches on opposite sides of the room). Do I need a Shelly switch on both ‘ends’ of the two-way setup or just one?
Will a Shelly dimmer module work in the above-mentioned two-way setup. Again, will just one dimmer do?
Obviously an electrician will install but I’m just trying to get an idea of numbers and cost.
I also really like the idea of using the Brilliant Smart Master/Slave dimmer modules, but it’s a shame they can’t be integrated into HA. Does anyone think this is likely to change anytime soon?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
You can do 2-way switching with a single smart device, it just changes the installation location. Depending on what existing wiring there is to play with it will likely mean installing the smart device (can be dimmer or switch) in the ceiling space instead of behind the light switch. I have done this in my house to save having to run additional wires.
I had thought about it as a last result… Looks like I’m at that point now since I can’t seem to get my code flashed onto this plug.
Today my first Kogan V1 smart plug died (nearly 12 months to the day). I think. It started randomly disconnecting for 10 seconds or so every few hours. Signal strength was excellent, no interference or dropped packets according to the WAP. Resetting the device made no difference.
So I decided to add two other nearby WAPs to the wifi networks list in ESPHome just to try it out. The thing never came back after OTA flashing and an hour later my UPS went down taking home assistant with it (it would have to be the most important one!). Fortunately I managed to instruct my house sitter on how to remove it.
I don’t think there’s any magic smoke marks inside it (like other photos I’ve seen here), probably just flash memory failure.
If the V2’s are impossible to open and flash, what smart power monitoring wifi plugs are you guys using now?
If the V2s can operate using the LocalTuya component, that would be great. Feel like being the guinea pig?
I’d be up for that if I wasn’t 5000km from home. Won’t be back until April 2021. Maybe Sparkydave can try?
I’ll order some now and report back when they arrive.
Thanks Dave, much appreciated.
One follow-up question, some of the 2-way light setups in question have multiple lights (one is 4 down-lights connect in series(?), another is 2 pendant lights on a staircase). Does it matter where in the ceiling the switch has to go (in-between the lights, between the lights and a switch, etc)? Hope this makes sense.
Thanks again.
Mains lights are not connected in series.
Classic Kogan. I seem to remember the ACCC taking them on a few times…
Except for the old Christmas tree lights.
Get rid of them if you have them, very unsafe.
I’ve just purchased the updated version of the 2m ARLEC Grid Connect LED strip (ALD256HA) from Bunnings for $30. It’s a much nicer quality compared to the older version (Model ALD233HA) and the power pack is compact and doesn’t feel like it will break any second. They’ve added an IR sensor and remote so you don’t have to use the Grid Connect app as well.
Now the question… before I start trying to flash it with Tasmotizer, has anyone done this yet and can share any tips? The chip is marked WB3S - any issues with that version? Also, if anyone has done it, did you use the same GPIO template as the previous version successfully?
Unfortunately the WB3S is not esp based so tasmotizer will not work
A number of people have replaced the wb3s with an esp8266.
So I’ve found a local supplier of contact and motion sensors (ZigBee based) and also wifi smart switches.
They’re called Greenhouse, based in Ellenbrook in WA.
I’ve cracked one open to have a look inside, and it’s an ESP8266 based TYWE3S module, though must be running newer firmware, because tuya-convert is not playing along.
I made up a generic ESPHome firmware and am going to try and workout the pins, but before I do, does anyone recognise the internals, as perhaps a clone or generic board that you may already have the relay, LED and button pins for?
Cheers!
Looks similar to these;
Thanks 
