I currently have 3 different shelly devices behind switches on the wall (Shelly 1L, 1P and Dimmer 2), none make any noise or at least if they do, I have never heard anything. They are controlling a mix of Lifx colour and white downlights.
Just purchased another 10 of them to install behind other wall switches.
I have Shelly 1pm and Shelly 2.5 behind wall switches and they make soft click noises when switching the relays (really only noticeable when you hold your ear against the wall switch).
This is the dimmer mode that you configure in the Shelly Dimmer 2.
Apparently the dimmer and the light need to match the supported mode - the Internet can explain that much better how that all works than I could. I guess the advantage of the Shelly Dimmer 2 is that you can actually configure this.
I really only noticed the noise when I first connected the LED and the dimmer for testing purposes outside of the wall. The default setting on the dimmer was āLeading edgeā and that resulted in a soft but noticeable humming noise coming from the LED light. After changing this to āTrailing edgeā that humming noise completely disappeared.
I just tried to reproduce this with the LEDs now installed in the ceiling, but the humming is barely noticeable.
I just set up my new Office Works Brilliant Smart Plugs with the Tuya Integration.
Is that a new thing with latest HA release or do people stay away from it because it is cloud (?) ?
Edit:
Now flashed with Esphome via Tuya-Convert.
One switch was straight out of the box and the other was connected to app/cloud/home assistant integration beforehand, and no problem with the flash for either.
https://esphome.io/cookbook/brilliant-mirabella-genio-smart-plugs.html
The cloud thing 
There has been some confusion about installing TP-Link KP115 and other models, so Iāll try to make it simple for anyone else who is looking.
The devices are shipped from the factory knowing nothing about your Wi-Fi network, and so they cannot connect to your Wi-Fi or to Home Assistant.
You need to configure the new devices to your WLAN by using the KASA app on your smartphone or (preferrably iPad).
The Kasa app asks you to log into TP-Linkās cloud service, which will configure the device to use the cloud service. However there is a (not very obvious) option to use āguest modeā instead, which configures your device without the cloud service.
The Kasa app connects to your new TP-Link device and allows you to configure it with your Wi-Fi details. Assuming these details are correct, when the device reboots it will connect to your Wi-Fi and be recognised by your router, which probably allocates it an IP address, which in turn allows the TP-LInk Integration in Home Assistant to see it.
Once your device connects to your Wi-Fi, the Kasa appās work is done and it can be closed until you have another new device to connect.
Because you used the Kasa appās āguest modeā, the KP115 never connected to TP-Linkās cloud service, and is happy to communicate directly with the TP-Link integration in Home Assistant.
There used to be quite a few master-slave type power boards around, marketed for energy saving. Useful for say AV or PC equipment so you can have say your TV or monitor in the master socket, and when the board detects the power drain of the device in the master port turning ON, it automatically switches the slave ports ON.
Eg turning your TV on switches your media centre, stereo/soundbar, and DVD player on.
Or turning your PC on swiches on your monitor, speakers and printer.
Of course, when I decided one would be good for my growing audio-visual setup, I found only one model still on the market 
I wonder if there might have been challenges with deciding what amounts of power draw on the master socket defined ON and OFF (given how many devices today go to sleep rather than turn totally off).
Sorry for the late reply.
Going to the myzone 3 from myzone 2 added about $1000 to my quote.
I didnāt really get a breakdown of the costs.
Reality is I think the wall controller is fine but the smart app is completely worthless. Thankfully home assistant does everything I need and you could do anything with automations no doubt.
glenā¦ I am using the beta tuya at the moment, and going to switch over to the new tuya core integration once it settles down. Are you thinking the same? Is the local tuya integration going away ?
I have a couple of tuya devicesā¦ and I donāt mind the cloud that much.
With the smart plug, does it leave enough room so you can use the second socket or does it take up too much space ?
Have you been able to test the new MQTT fan config I posted?
Also, I purchased another fan controller, same model, from JD Lighting last week and it has the newer Tuya firmware so can not be TuyaConvert-ed. I tried to solder wires and flash manually, but didnāt have any success so have set up with LocalTuya, which seems to be working fine.
It has the TYWE3S chip, so should be able to flash manually. Did you manually flash any and if so, which pins did you use?
I havenāt a chance yet. Unfortunately had a few other important things to fix around the house.
No, mine are the original stock which could be tuya-converted. I tried flashing a TYWE3S in something else with no luck so bough a bunch of ESP12-Fās but have so far had no success getting anything flashed on those either (dramas with the test board I bought).
Iām using localtuya as I would like the option of switching off the cloud connection ā the only real āhassleā is extracting the codes from iot.tuya.com and Iām sure they will eventually close that down. 
Iām not strictly against the cloud, but would prefer local.
Well,. I just had my second Kogan gen2 dieā¦ This one was connected to my fridgeā¦ Some interesting details. According to home assistant,. It lost access at 7am on Tues 9thā¦ however it seems it was still allowing power until I opened the fridge at noon wed 10thā¦ So it seems once it lost wireless first before it totally failed. Lucky I was home and noticed it ā¦the fridge was still cold,. So it must not have failed for too long ā¦ Also it seems that the USB ports still produce powerā¦
So I might remove the others I have,. Since they seems to be as unrealable as the gen1
Similar experience here. I had my first Kogan gen2 die last week.
The latest batch I bought cannot be tuya-converted anymore; opening one up and looking at serial flashing it did not look too easy; and the official tuya integration is a bit underwhelming when it comes to power consumption reporting as it seems far less fine-granular and less frequent, rendering use-cases based on timely power consumption report useless. Time to look for an alternative productā¦
Not unless it has the regulatory compliance mark (RCM) on the other side.
I know this is off topic but might be specific to Ozā¦
How long has Google responded with chimes to requests to turn things on and off ?
Itās bloody great !!
Previouslyā¦
āhey Google, turn on the kitchen lightā
āok, turning on the kitchen lightā
Nowā¦
āhey Google, turn on the kitchen lightā
ābing bongā
