I’ve always got the chimes response if the google speaker is in the same room as the lights. If it’s in a different room I get the verbal confirmation.
Have you recently changed room assignments of your lights or google speaker?
Actually I have, but not in that room.
Curious
For those that don’t mind Tuya based devices:
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Yet another question from me on Shelly devices, specifically the 1L. The 1L allows you to control 2 switches, is it possible to fit a wall plate with 2 switches both connect to the shelly giving me options to control 2+ devices but only have one of the switches physically wired to something, let’s say a light bulb?
Use case is in my bedroom I have a single switch currently with an L1 behind it. That switch is physically wired to the bedroom ceiling light. I would like to replace it with a double switch, one still wired to the ceiling light but the other wired to nothing. However, on press of the second switch I use HA to open the bedroom blinds.
Wonder if the smart plugs could be the new cheap go-to ahead of the short lived Kogans and Office works ones.
Anyone have any expectations as to whether they are likely flashable with Tuya-convert?
Hey all.
I notice that some of you are using (and quite successfully) the IoTaWATT energy monitor system here on AU homes.
Has anyone used a Emporia Gen 2 Vue energy monitor yet ?
I think this also has UL approvals same as the IoTaWatt, and an 8 CT system is considerably cheaper when shipped to AU.
I saw these smart switches at Coles (Hornsby/NSW) yesterday for $20. The USB version looks suspiciously similar to the Kogan gen2 switches. Blaupunkt is actually a well known German car accessory company, so not sure when they started putting their brand name onto these devices.
Likewise, their smart switches look exactly the same as the Kogan gen2 ones.
If i had to make a wild guess: They’re all from the same factory and everyone’s just putting a brand name on them.
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That would have been after they went bankrupt and just became a brand name that gets put on electronics trying to trade off what they used to be.
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I would not buy this unless I could show an electrician the compliance approval paperwork. I also note that device has NO local network access, so all traffic is via the cloud. That is a big risk as the company can (and has already) changed the API to break the HA integration. They could also start charging access or go out of business resulting in a bricked device. I’d spend a bit more for a local network monitor, personally.
I don’t know why you would need approval if it is a CT clamp. (I am making an assumptions as I haven’t looked it up)
That is an excellent point though.
Hey all. Out of curiosity how’s everyone been doing with the new non esp devices? Eg the WR3/WBR3 chipsets I have been successfully swapping them out on a few devices Eg. the latest deta series 2 switches from Bunnings.
Hey did you already end up ordering? The shipping is a real killer
Not for the clamps, so much as powering the main unit. It needs to go in the meter box and be powered by 240V 24x7, so is fairly important it doesn’t burst into flames. etc., being next to all the wiring for the entire house. If it did burn and did not have C-tick (or equiv) then building insurance could be rejected. Not worth that risk to me.
Good point.
I guess the IoTaWatt device is more palatable then, because it uses a local approved transformer for voltage and phase monitoring (and can be mounted outside the meter board)…
The issue of cloud only connection could be temporary if somebody (like me) traced the I/O etc and uses ESPhome on it instead. No matter now. Pity as the 8 CT system is well priced. I’m having trouble swallowing the current costs with shipping of a IoTaWatt purchase.
If these are Tuya-Convent-able, that’s awesome. I figured all devices your could buy new would by now be shipped with later firmware that prevented Tuya-Convert and would require serial flashing.
Do you think you got lucky with old stock or did these just never get an update?
No clue! Just got them online/shipped…
Also, this is not necessarily the case anymore as most new Tuya products actually have non-ESP chips in them meaning that the only way to get custom firmware onto them is to do a chip swap.
Is there a guide on how to flash these? Picked one up today.
Got to step 1.1 and realised I’m up shit creek