Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

No pi?

I do actually, its running my MQTT broker - forgot about that one. Reading the guide though, sounds like you need a specific OS of Linux running on itā€¦ I think Iā€™m running Raspbian Buster though :frowning:

It will work on Raspbian Buster. Start from step 5.

It also works with iphones now.

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I have lots of iPhonesā€¦ :smiley: thanks mate

I picked up two of these today, neither responded to tuya convert. Assuming they have either changed chips or are using the later firmware.

They look sealed pretty tight, anyone had luck cracking into them without murdering the case?

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Before anyone throws out shite and dead Kogan or similar plug-in switches, the cases can be re-used with alternate hardware. I had three switches controlled by a 433MHz remote. One died (which, without thinking I threw out) but when the second died, I thought about repurposing.

I had bought, for experimenting, some ESP01S relay modules and small encapsulated 230V to 5V DC modules, so why not try it? The ESP01Ss were flashed with Tasmota, ESPHome would also work, so now I have three grouped switches in HA that turn on the preamp & active speakers. With mini media player card & a group switch card, the LMS server & RPi PiCore slaves are are to use from anywhere.

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Bugger. Maybe I got lucky and got old stock - Only bought mine about a month ago.

is what it is. I found a kiwi site that pulled them apart and reflashed them, so iā€™ll have a go at that later on. I dont mind running tuya for super non critical stuff, but much rather the local control that tasmota offers.

Got a link to the pulling apart?

I asked the other day how others have been doing with chip swaps. Sadly no feedback I have had great luck so far.

Eg I have just converted one of the Bunnings ā€œOrion garage door controllersā€ https://www.bunnings.com.au/orion-grid-connect-smart-garage-door-controller-with-sensor_p0261686

Not quite orthodox as I ended up hardwiring the door sensor to function differently with 2 x 1k ohm resistors. Not sure if I damaged the little transistor but just worked around it.

Or possibly the WBR3 has the ability to pull down pin 12. Either way it works now.

I never did flash this one, because I never manage to open it. I see some people have drilled it open, or made a tool. With the new Tuya-v2 integration in HA, I started using this device as is, waiting for Tuya to give locate control as promised. If they donā€™t come through, I might make a tool to open it up.

Yeah thatā€™s not going to happen now. Theyā€™ve changed the original plan.

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The cynic in me says local control was never really the plan.

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I wouldnā€™t call it cynicism, more a realistic appraisal. I had doubts from the outset, given the IPO a few months ago.
An advantage, for Tuya, would be reduced load on their servers. Maybe the CCP thought otherwise. People, like the woman tennis player, disappear if there is dissent or contrary to the CCP.

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Well time to crack them all openā€¦

ā€œOpen the plastic case by carefully hitting and working around the sides of the shell around the opening side with a plastic-ended hammer. This should break the glue, not the shell if done correctly.ā€

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Iā€™ve had good success in the past by placing the device to open in a vice with the glue seam right above the top of the vice jaws. Gentle squeezing with the vice usually cracks glue or ultrasonic welds along the seam.

Mind you I have not tried this method with the Brilliant plugs as all mine flash with Tuyaconvert. I bought a batch of 20 or so before Officeworks ran out of stock last time. Maybe the new stock is an updated model. Externally they look the same.

You could achieve the same outcome for less effort using a Sonoff SV and a wired magentic reed switch. I ditched my MyQ system for this method and it works very reliably and very cheap ($15) with the added bonus of no soldering.