" . . . because I find home repair tasks elementary, I’m gonna call those w/o the aptitude a name. . . "
Everything is easy if one knows what to do, and NOT to do. Getting that first step of experience can be intimidating, or more costly if gone wrong than one is willing to take on. So many take the safer route. There’s a BROAD array of personalities online, and there are enough that have NO BUSINESS taking on things that they don’t know (don’t have the common sense that’s needed - not a put down for them, just a reality).
I’m not trying to put down anyone or call names. I’m just saying it’s not rocket science. Anyone can learn how to wire a socket in literally half an hour. It might be the Slav in me talking but every house owner should know how to do basic house repairs. What’s next, paying a professional to change a light bulb?
First contact your engineer to apply electrical permit through your local building department. Remember not to turn on the light before inspectors approval.
Indeed, it’s not. I’ve been doing various levels of home maintenance for 50 years, as a full time gig. Trust me, there are those that SHOULD be advised to call electricians. Those that prefer to pay to have someone get on a ladder to change a light bulb are a different sort. I’ve done work for them too.
:time passes: I could have made the point, initially, w/o suggesting you were calling names. My apologies.
Hey @phier , i’ve been doing home electrical work for quite some time as a young tinkerer in middle school to now in my adulthood. I never caused a fire, or got zapped even when changing multiple outlets with the power on because i understand electrical work and how to avoid serious emergencies. I’m not telling you to do the same but i want let you know that.
Regardless, its good to state your desired end goal when asking for help in the home automation forum. Given that, id never put a relay on an outlet. Not because its bad but there’s better things such as tp-link tapo outlets which give per plug control (on/off) and per plug power readings. Their connectivity is great too. No you don’t have to run new wires if the load you plan to run is the same and nothing was tripping a breaker prior to your modification. This is a super easy job, i dont see what’s all the fuss about. Regardless either option is fine relay or smart outlet but in this case id lean towards smart outlet as it gives more flexibility and per plug control & readings. They are kinds pricey ($400 for about 19 of those bad boys and i enjoy them)
Additionally if you are looking to do this because you want to accurately monitor your homes electric then this is the absolute wrong way to go. You want to use smart breakers so you catch all electric current and not just from outlets.
You wouldn’t put a relay but you put a relay integrated to outlet. Technically there’s not such a difference to say one is better. Just preference.
Does Tapo have 16A 230VAC outlet?
There is, my post explained it. A relay on a duplex outlet only has ability to shut off/on the entire receptacle and if its a decent relay with power reading it will only read the combined total of the receptacle. Whereas the tp-link tapo outlets allow per plug reading and control with cost tracking built in among other neat tricks. I wouldn’t say its preference if product A has more functionality than product B. More of an oranges to apples comparison than apples to apples.
Nope, didnt read that part, user wants an outlet to charge their electric vihiculaur mobile i see
I’m not sure what power outlets are like in your country, or John’s, but here in my country the outlet switches are integrated into the socket. So you can’t break out the switch contacts for connection to the Shelly.
Hi,
sorry, yes maybe u were right and i am not sure what i want to achieve.
My idea was to install these shellys into sockets which has “dangerous” devices plugged in as Kettle, and its hard to name others. So maybe i dont need to install that anymore … frankly i got lost whats the benefit installing it into socket.
Maybe if u go away for a longer time … u can power off devices as Alexa, some Sonos amps …and have a better sleep?
I install these devices gradually, when and where i need them, not all at the same time, i think it’s best (and cheapest) idea. However, when/if rebuilding house/flat it’s a good idea to install deeper “cases” for sockets so shelly’s (or whatever) will fit behind it.
I would start with thinking what exactly it it you want to achieve and then rephrase your initial question. At the very least, start by mentioning which country you’re from and what socket type you use.
As @tom_l above has pointed out, sockets have integrated switches, meaning that modules like Shelly are out of the question. You will run into the issue where turning on a relay via HA will do nothing because the physical switch is off, or trying to turn on the physical switch but getting no power because the relay module is switched off.
Basically, the only scenarios where modules will work for you is to switch stuff off - turning them on will require both the relay and the switch to be on.
Something which no one else mentioned is that (at least in UK-oriented electrical installations) most socket circuits are wired as a ring circuit (daisy chained back to the CU) and not as a radial circuit (point-to-point, like you intended to do in your first post). Wiring every socket as a radial might not be considered best practice and might even be illegal.
Again, this would depend on your country’s rules, which you haven’t mentioned so far.
Again, please take the time to think why exactly you would need this. Most electric kettles are double insulated and have considerable safety features, including boil-dry protection.
If the thought of a kettle being left on worries you, it might make more sense to invest in a kettle which has decent safety features rather than losing sleep and rewiring your entire house.
EDIT: Just to clarify, I am not an electrician. I was in your same situation when I bought my first house and spent months learning electrical basics so I wouldn’t commit any fatal mistakes. I strongly suggest you do the same.
If you are redoing it anyway I would not got any thing based on wireless tech (WiFi, zigbee or whatever…) there are options with wired connections which are way more stable (and also not that expensive)…
Well, the main problem with wired solutions is “bulkness” - devices are way bigger than wireless ones, especially if you include rj45 connector/socket. Also price difference is not that small. When you have a bunch of them it adds up to usually already over-budgeted renovation.
But, as you said, they are more stable, that’s true.
I think that if i’d renovate i would still draw some sort of signal cable (utp, i guess) with power ones to each socket. You never know when it comes handy.
Just in case…
you never know what module you’ll install in a certain hole… basically it doesn’t have to be utp, it can be any small signal cable, but if it’s utp there’s a chance to put ethernet module inside instead wifi (for example).
I guess it’s the part of “better safe than sorry”, or in this case: better to have unused cable inside than draw it in later, when power cables are already inside and you have all nicely finished.
but every house owner should know how to do basic house repairs. What’s next, paying a professional to change a light bulb?
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