Fan Control - 433 Gateway or Something Else?

Hardware
1

Good morning!
We got a new ceiling fan for our living room and unlike all our others, it uses an RF control unit that can’t be easily replaced.
For our other fans, the RF remote just moderated the incoming AC line. Since the house was wired with two lines to the ceiling box, I could directly connect the fan and light to those lines and put Z-Wave switches in the wall panel for full local and automated control. Great, we love it.
This unit, seen below, has an LED light module and these odd little connectors, so can’t be readily gotten around.

20250518_100801
20250518_1008011920×3413 520 KB

20250518_053855
20250518_0538551920×3413 387 KB

Some light searching only comes up with this unit in reference to fans, so I’m not having much luck in figuring out what might be Z-Wave, Zigbee or even WiFi alternative - the manufacturer (the oddly named Parrot Uncle) doesn’t appear to offer one directly.
It seems like my only options are either 1) try a 433Mhz gateway like the Broadlink RM4 Pro or 2) Just forget it. The fan is replacing an existing light that was on a smart dimmer, so I can at least reset that to be pure on/off for turning things off when we leave the house.
I’m tempted to try the gateway, although lack of feedback seems sub-optimal. My wife likes the aesthetic of the fan and that takes priority over any home automation.
Are there any other options here I’m missing?
Appreciate any advice. Thanks!

2
  1. is good option.
    Others are: find HA compatible BLDC motor driver and LED (type yet unknown) driver.
    Or hack the logic circuit of the original driver (soldering and programming skills needed)
3

Thanks for the check. I definitely don’t want to start trying to mess with the actual driver. I can mess with electronics but when it comes to line voltage, installing ceiling fans and switches is where I draw the line.
I’ll try the bridge and see how it goes.
The remote control has eight buttons, although three are to change the light color temperature and one is to reverse the fan, so I can probably put in a four or five button scene controller by way of a physical button. Don’t want to give the kiddos another reason to stump for phones.

4

I had some issues with my Hampton Bay fans that use 303MHz. I found this frequency by looking up the FCCID. I have both the Brodlink and the Bond bridge and I’d recommend the Bond. It is much more versitile supporting a broader range of frequencies and even rolling codes for proprietary remotes.

5

Oh, great tip, I was about to order the Broadlink. Looking up the remote, it’s definitely 433Mhz. Doesn’t seem to say anything about operating modes, but I don’t really know how to read these. It’s ID 2BGXK-RE033, for what it’s worth.