For anyone using an older Feyree Taurus 22 kW / 32 A 3-phase charger, I found something interesting that may help people who only have a single-phase home supply.
Yes, the 3-phase 32 A Taurus can work on only one phase
I am using the 3-phase 32 A version, but my house is only single phase, 40 A.
I connected only one phase to the charger and use it as a single-phase charger. I normally limit the EV to about 20 A.
I can also confirm that the ADL400 3-phase meter works when only one phase is being used. In my installation only one phase is actually carrying current, and the ADL400 reports that current correctly.
So if you already own the 3-phase Taurus, a single-phase installation is possible - at least on the older Taurus hardware I have.
The funny part: DLB on the older Taurus seems mathematically broken
My ADL400 measures the total current correctly.
But if I configure the Taurus DLB with my real home limit of 40 A, the charging current becomes extremely unstable:
18A -> 12A -> 10A -> 17A -> 10A -> 12A -> 18A...
This happens even when the non-EV household load is completely stable.
After experimenting with it, I think the old Taurus DLB is effectively counting the EV’s own current as household consumption and then reacting to its own previous adjustment.
The simplified model seems to be approximately:
Next EV current = Fake DLB limit - House load - Current EV current
Call:
C = configured/fake DLB limitH = actual household current excluding EVE = EV charging current
Then:
E(next) = C - H - E(current)
This explains the crazy oscillation.
If the charger goes a few amps too high, the next measurement includes those extra amps, so it commands the charger several amps lower. Then the meter sees the lower total and it immediately raises the charger again.
It is basically a badly damped feedback loop reacting to itself.
But here’s the hilarious part: the broken DLB is still useful
If you look at the average rather than each individual jump, the equation becomes:
Average EV current = (C - H) / 2
Therefore:
Average total current = (C + H) / 2
So the old DLB does react to household consumption - just with the wrong slope.
A proper DLB does this:
House +1A -> EV -1A
so the total stays constant.
The old Taurus appears to do approximately:
House +1A -> EV -0.5A
So it provides roughly 50% load compensation.
Not proper DLB, but definitely better than having no load management at all.
You can therefore choose a “fake” DLB maximum mathematically
If your real service limit is 40 A, and you want the broken controller to average around 40 A at a chosen household load:
C = 80 - H
This gives:
| Household load you want to optimize for |
Fake DLB maximum |
| 20 A |
60 A |
| 22 A |
58 A |
| 24 A |
56 A |
| 25 A |
55 A |
| 26 A |
54 A |
| 28 A |
52 A |
| 30 A |
50 A |
So for many 40 A single-phase homes, something in roughly the 50-60 A configured range may actually make the old broken DLB useful, depending on your normal/max household consumption.
For example, I am currently considering 54-56 A rather than 40 A.
With C = 54A:
| Non-EV house load |
Average EV current |
Average total |
| 15 A |
~19.5 A |
~34.5 A |
| 20 A |
~17 A |
~37 A |
| 22 A |
~16 A |
~38 A |
| 25 A |
~14.5 A |
~39.5 A |
| 26 A |
~14 A |
~40 A |
| 30 A |
~12 A |
~42 A |
My EV is also limited to 20 A, so at low household loads it simply reaches the 20 A charging cap instead of following the equation further upward.
This obviously cannot make the old DLB equivalent to a correct DLB, because changing the fake maximum moves the line up/down but cannot fix its slope.
It can be optimized around a particular household load, but it will under-react when household consumption becomes unusually high.
Still, it is surprisingly useful.
What about the current constantly jumping around?
The oscillation looks alarming, but the important part for load management is the average.
For example, something like:
18, 12, 10, 17, 10, 12, 18 A
has an average of about 13.9 A.
So even though the control algorithm is hilariously unstable, it can still substantially reduce the average EV load when other appliances are consuming power.
I don’t see the current modulation itself as a problem for the EV - EVSEs are designed to change the advertised available charging current dynamically. The bigger limitation is that this workaround does not guarantee that the house stays below 40 A instantaneously, so your normal correctly sized circuit breaker remains the actual overload protection.
In other words: this is useful load reduction, not a replacement for proper electrical protection.
New Taurus models
Feyree says the Taurus DLB received major hardware and software upgrades effective March 30, 2026. Their current documentation describes the correct behavior: monitor the individual phases, determine appliance load separately from charger current, and adjust the EV according to the available capacity.
So this weird behavior appears mainly relevant to the older Taurus DLB implementation.
For those of us with the older units, though, the fake-limit trick makes the DLB much more useful than simply disabling it.
It is certainly not perfect DLB.
But mathematically, it is basically a **50%-working DLB with an impressively bad control loop.
I have also 230V charger, but that doesn’t connect to HA, so I am happy to be able to use my feyree charger even for lower power. Switching back to 3-phase charging is just by quick disconnection of that middle cable.
