I found the various things I tried to fix the blank display on boot up didn’t work.
And after some trials it seems like the ESP isn’t booting. So perhaps it is a PSU issue rather than a display one.
I’m happy to double tap the power button for now.
I smoked some ribs last weekend and it worked great. Looking at the logs it is obvious where the fire went out and the relight logic saved it.
Boot problem solved:
I had this exact same problem on my other project and after puling my hair out for several days trying to solve it and this was the simple fix. It turns out the internal pull-up resistor that is on these ESP32S3’s apparently is not strong enough. So an external resistor is required. Interestingly, to reproduce this you have to short all pins on the ESP to ground (with the power off, of course) to discharge the capacitance everywhere and then turn it on and then it enters the serial boot-loader mode. But a subsequent power off and power on wakes the Chip up.
Also, the updated yaml code now detects when the fire is lit and ends the lighting sequence at that point instead of waiting the full time to light.
RTD calibration is done via a polynomial equation. Should be much closer to reality when using the stock PT1000 and max31865.
PID tuning is better and on/off auger times are now optimized so full time pellet delivery means faster heat up times.
Docs directory has a good working doc & breakdown of features.
Cursor AI absolutely rocks. I haven’t touched a line of code in months.
I have a few circuit boards left. About a dozen folks have built this so far that I know of and had good success.
I just wanted to chime in and say that I bought a board and set of components from @jazzmonger a couple of weeks ago and he was an absolute pleasure to deal with. Definitely went over and above, and got everything out the door for me for super cheap.
I’m about half done soldering and should be able to get everything fitted for testing next week.
Really looking forward to this…and big thanks to @jazzmonger for this project and being a beauuuttty.
I’ll probably build a 3D printed enclosure for this. If it turns out decent, I’ll post it here for everyone.
Ive reached out about ordering one. Great project idea. Happy to be a tester on the 3d printed enclosure.
Heads up:
I’ve come to realize the fuse and fuse holder I designed into the board is for AUTOMOTIVE (12v), not 120v. That fuse won’t do anything to protect components. I was looking for something small and compact. DUH! Of all people, I should totally know better - that’s a total rookie mistake and I’m no rookie!
SO… dont use that fuse holder/fuse. Replace it with something like a mini BUSS fast blow fuse and fuse holder- 5A should be fine for the fans (0.7A)+ auger (0.7A)+ hotrod (1.5A) = 2.9A . I found some small ones - I’ll look at them in my shop tomorrow and post the part number.
Or simply use an inline 120v fuse - even simpler. something like this:
I’m so glad you told me that about the fuse holder… I’ve been looking at it scratching my head.
Also, you sent a 2200uF cap and a small pre-bent resistor (looks like 107k?). I don’t find them listed anywhere in the BOM. Was that a mistake?
Otherwise I’ve just about got everything else soldered up. Can’t wait to begin testing!
that resistor converts the Max3185 to a PT10000 instead of a PT100. its a delicate operation to remove the SMD resistor and solder that one one, but if you’re careful it’s no big deal.