KASA/TP-Link HS300s lose authentication if they drop power

I have been wrestling with an issue for the last month and cannot seem to get it fixed. I have a ticket open with TP-Link Support but “they do not support Home Assistant”.

I see there have been many posts about this but they seem to magically fix themselves and they are a few years old and I cannot help but think that this problem is due to a change on their firmware and I have duplicated this problem successfully.

The HS300s work great until power is dropped to them and it seems as if Home Assistant cannot log into them, anymore. The EP25s I have do not have this problem, so I think it is safe to say that this is centered on the HS300 hardware.

When these drop power, these still work fine in the KASA app. I can turn things on or off without issue.

Third Party Compatibility has always been set to “On”

Home Assistant version: 2025.11.1 Core, 2025.11.2 Supervisor, Operating System 16.3 on a Raspberry PI 4B with 16GB of memory.

I have the Sense energy monitor and post power loss, these still work fine with it. In fact, its integration with Sense and Home Assistant is why I bought 28 of them.

I changed my TP-Link/Kasa Password to make sure I was using the right one and I am. When I changed it, I had to change the HS300s that had not rebooted in Home Assistant and they came back.

This started when I popped a breaker in my living room and 5 of them stopped working. I factory reset two of them and that did not fix it. The other 3 came back when I changed my TP-Link/KASA password, along with the others except these two.

Today, I popped my GFCI starting my smoker (happens for some reason, even though I replaced the GFCI and works fine after that). I lost the two that were connected to it so this does happen upon a reboot.

I even bought a new one and set it up and it all worked fine until I pulled power and then it is like everything else.

I could probably generate a network trace if someone thinks that would be beneficial. Here are the associated log messages, all indicating a bad username and password, but I am using the correct one and the same one I use on the working devices.

Logger: homeassistant.config_entries
Source: config_entries.py:789
First occurred: 12:19:01 PM (2 occurrences)
Last logged: 12:19:01 PM

  • Config entry ‘Backyard PS1’ for tplink integration could not authenticate: Device authentication error connect: Device response did not match our challenge on ip 192.168.253.50, check that your e-mail and password (both case-sensitive) are correct.
  • Config entry ‘Backyard PS2’ for tplink integration could not authenticate: Device authentication error connect: Device response did not match our challenge on ip 192.168.253.57, check that your e-mail and password (both case-sensitive) are correct.

For username, it is my E-Mail address, all lower case.

For my password, it contains upper and lower case letters, numbers and a special character, specifically the ! character (that’s all you are going to get out of me on my password).

I don’t use the kasa app, but these things are generally not the greatest in reliability, however if you give then a static dhcp reservation, it helps.

also you might be interested in @ GitHub - python-kasa/python-kasa: 🏠🤖 Python API for TP-Link smarthome products

The reserved DHCP IP address is certainly a possibility.

I would be very interested in the GitHub but I do not know how to install it on Home Assistant and integrate with Home Assistant. I like the Home Assistant integration.

the github is not an integration, it lets you ‘commission’ various tp/kasa devices without their app (local only)

Yeah, probably not going to go that route if I can help it since it is supposed to be built-in.

Fixed it…after weeks and weeks. Go into the app.

Click on “ME”
Click on Settings
Turn OFF “Third-Party Compatibility”
Turn ON “Third-Party Compatibility”
Wait a few seconds.

This was a pain and I did ask KASA to have their development team look into the HS300s when it comes to authentication at this current firmware level. I am not sure how far it will go. That seems where the problem lies. The EP25s had no issue.

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