Making my rented apartment's Chamberlain smart?

Hardware
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I live in an apartment built in the 1950’s with a garage door opener that is probably not much newer but is at least 20 years old. The only part number I can see on it is “132B2278” which does not come up in any database I can find but it has “Chamberlain Whisper Drive” written on the front and back.

There are some limiting factors:

  1. I rent so whatever I do has to be simple and easy to remove in such a way that my landlord (who never comes here) can’t complain.
  2. I don’t have easy access to the actual garage door drive itself. There is always a car parked under it (not mine) so anything I do has to happen somewhere else.
  3. I have easy access to the wall trigger (which has black, red, and white wires) but it has no power near it so if I can’t take power from it (my guess is no?) whatever I do needs battery power or be fully remote (there are outlets in the general area).
  4. It’s a shared garage; whatever I do can’t negatively impact my neighbors. They are lovely people.
  5. I don’t have a Zigbee or Matter network, let alone one that would reach this part of the building.

Things going for me:

  1. I have a stable and strong 2.4 Ghz WiFi signal down there.
  2. HA is up and running, has been for years, with all sorts of fun stuff going on. This is the part I’m comfortable with, but the hardware not so much.

Not a lot, I know… I did do some searching and saw the Ratgdo32 but that (a) seems to require a power source and (b) seems to want to be plugged into the drive unit itself so I think that’s a no-go?

What I was hoping was that the wall control basically just completes a circuit when you click a button. If that’s the case could I not just wire something inline that would also complete the circuit if triggered? Otherwise I was wondering if there’s a way to wire up a dummy remote somewhere in the basement that wirelessly triggers the garage door.

I’m sure people have done some version of what I’m hoping to do. Any suggestions, links to good examples of people doing this, etc? This is my first real DIY Home Assistant project so a little extra hand holding on this one would be appreciated. Once I have the hardware figured out I’m sure I can set it up in HA.

[Edit 1]

Been doing my own research as best I can and it seems like I might be able to use a Shelly 1 Gen4? As far as I can tell since I’m using an older 2-button garage door (looks a lot like this guy) what I’m seeing online is that thing is fully powered by the drive unit and I might be able to just run the Shelly inline and it’ll be powered? Maybe? I’m not sure how that wiring would work. I was thinking I could tap in with a few Posi Tabs (I need to check the gauge).

[Edit 2]

Good news bad news. I can reach one side of the garage door opener which let me get the model number: Chamberlain Whisper Drive WD822KS.

However, the other side is too far for me to reach just by hand and there’s no room to put a ladder. If my only option is to attach something to the garage door opener itself I’ll get my neighbors to move the car for an hour or two, I guess.

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The most renter-friendly option is probably going to be something like a Switchbot actuating the wall trigger. They are battery-powered and Bluetooth based, so your HA instance would need that. Whether or not it will fit and work without impacting your neighbors access is something you’ll need to figure out by taking some measurements and probably talking to them.

Do you have (or can you get) a spare remote? If it’s an older opener you may be able to find one on ebay or even find a universal one that is programmable for that opener. With that, an ESP32, a transistor or relay, and a usb power supply you should be able to cobble something together.

1 Like
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Getting a spare remote should be possible but I can’t figure out what exact model it is. All that information is hidden from view (I have strong feelings about whoever made that choice).

Looking at the Switchbot, it looks a lot like a Shelly switch. I’ve seen people using those to trigger this thing and I was thinking about just using one of those, just tapping into the wall switch’s wires if I can figure out how to wire it. Some Posi Taps should make that part pretty simple.

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Maybe I should have been more specific… I’m talking about the Switchbot finger-bot

Though if Shelly has a dry-contact version that can be powered from a USB charger or similar, that might be a possible option. I think the Shelly 1 Gen4 requires at least 12V DC.

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Ah. I’d need a spare remote to make that option work but the other issue is there’s just no way bluetooth is reaching that far.

As for Shelly, it looks like I could use this one. but the issue is wiring it. As for power, I was hoping I could use whatever is powering the wall controller but if that’s not an option I was thinking I could get a USB battery pack and maybe figure out how to connect that? That way I can just recharge it whenever the controller starts to get low.

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I’m pretty sure it should work through BT Proxies, so if you have WiFi in that location then you can have BT… that would add another esp32 device to the overall cost, so it might not really be worthwhile, but it’s an option.

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I use OpenGarage units on my garages. Yes, it needs to be plugged in and also needs to be wired into the garage door opener but those of those should be fairly easy. I haven’t seen a garage door opener that was hard wired in, so there is usually a power receptacle nearby and in most cases there’s an extra outlet that you can use for the USB power you need for the unit. The wiring is the most annoying part, those are tiny wires, but it’s simple to remove if you need to.

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Unfortunately I don’t have easy access to the opener itself, just the wall trigger. If I could get to the opener I’d be able to tell exactly what model it was and at a minimum I’d replace my remote with one that isn’t dying (it’s not the battery, already replaced that).

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Second update with added info about the garage door model number (I was able to get to that at least). But I still can’t get to the side where I could plug anything in.

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Looking at their guide, I do wonder if I can just tap directly into the wires with a Shelly 1 Gen4. It seems like I could, and then I just need to provide power. What am I missing?

https://shellyusa.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/SUDADI/pages/1392542151/Garage+Door+Control+with+Shelly+1+Gen+4

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It seems you’re ignoring the power issue, something that whatever you choose will have to have.

What’s inside the wall trigger? Is it just a simple button that just connect two of the wires?

If it’s more complicated because it’s 3 wire. Then the third wire might be power. You’d have to figure AC or DC and voltage. Then convert that to what the remote button you’re going to install needs. Maybe that’s already done inside the wall trigger? The ESP-01 relay module says 5V DC, but I think the onboard voltage regulator can handle 12V.

You’ll need housing. I use small yogurt containers.

In my situation I had power nearby. My wall trigger ridiculously smart, weird protocol to talk to the motor, time & temperature. So I soldered two wires to the button that actually triggered all the stuff and connected it to a dry contact relay (driven by an Insteon device, but it could have been any wireless technology. Works great.

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I had a myQ which worked great until they kept it from working with home assistant. If willing to have another app and in the cloud, just use that. You probably need to click the “learn” button on the opener itself, which you said is difficult to access.

Extra door remote is easiest. Try getting one at home depot. You probably need to click the “learn” button on the opener itself too to pair the new remote. Then you can do the below, but inside near an outlet.

Most likely with an old opener, the three wires are a common, one for the light, and one for the open function. Bridge the common and the corresponding wire and see if it triggers.

I got wire from home depot to extend the wires closer to a outlet. For me, there happened to be an extra set of wires (for a second control box) already by the control box, but you could splice them in. I used the wire to extend the control wires 5 meters or so to an outlet where I can plug the ESP device in.

Used a simple D1mini with a relay shield. You can find integrated ESP+relay, but will need an FTDI flasher to put ESPHome or tasmota. Pain in the ass! Plug the D1mini into a USB by the outlet, plug one control wire into common relay, other into the Normally open of the relay. Flash ESPHome or Tasmota, and make it send only a short pulse when you want to trigger (see below)

The minor issue is you probably want a way to determine if the door is open/closed. If you just want to change the state, no need for that!

I used a 433Mhz door magnet setup, which is battery powered. I already had a 433Mhz reader in my home assistant, so was easy. They make zigbee ones, but I found it unreliable and it chewed up batteries. Other people use a reed switch and a magnet tied to the ESPHome. This is really the hardest part. The magnet moves and then the door reading is incorrect. I have to fix it every couple weeks. I can still trigger the door if the reading is correct.

You then need to make a “cover template” to combine the reading of open/closed garage with the switch.

My ESPHome switch setup:

switch:
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Garage Remote"
    pin: 5
    id: relay
    on_turn_on:
    - delay: 1000ms
    - switch.turn_off: relay
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Any photos or document or video for your implementation / your setup? I’m interested!! Looking for inspiration!!!

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Ultimately, what are you wanting to accomplish? Are you wanting to open/close the garage door from Home Assistant?

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Doug - You just need a way to open / close the door, and do not necessarily need to know whether the door is open or closed, correct?

The most renter friendly way is likely for you to buy a dummy door remote (look for “Security +”, not “Security + 2.0” remotes) for maybe $5 ~ $15, and program your remote to your opener, via the wall penal which you said you have easy access to. Lookup the manual of WD822KS and see how it is done - typically the procedure would be among the last few pages of the manual. No ladder needed.
(Or, you can ask your landlord for a spare remote.)

So, when you have 2 remotes in your hand. You can pop open one of those, and solder a dry contact relay to your remote bottom. Shell 1, 1 mini, uni, and a bunch of other ESP32 boards would all work - as long as it has a smart dry contact relay - and as long as either the smart relay has the feature to config, or you can automate, the press-and-then-release behavior to simulate human finger button press.

And then you will need to figure out a place to hide your contraption, and a way of powering (110VAC or 12VDC or 5VDC or whatever works on your remote) the whole thing.

For fun:

And I would not discount the idea of SwitchBot finger just yet. Yes, the finger bot units are bluetooth, but they also have a couple of different SwitchBot hubs - many if not all of them do wi-fi and can command multiple bots & sensors.

16

My picture would show a garage door button with a hook-up wire coming out of the bottom of it.

My solution is essentially the same as the others described here.

I use the magnet/reed switch for my open/close sensor. I bolted my magnet to the door and do not have problems. With a remote controlled switch, I think it’s important.

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A common garage door automation challenge. Easily solved as most garage door controls offer an industry standard simple temporary switch contact closing to initiate door open/close activity. Alternatives where you automagically push a button on a second remote unit are fiddly, but can be hidden away. See Search results for 'garage door opener' - Home Assistant Community for what others have done.

First, a warning of safety issues. You may have to climb a ladder and unhook some wires and test them with a multimeter. Risk of falls and electrocution. If unsure, call somebody that knows what they are doing, like your local friendly electrician or garage door installer. This is definitely in DIY territory.

Looking at the installation manual of the Chamberlain Whisper Drive WD822KS, INSTALLATION STEP 6, Install the Door Control page, in figure 5 shows that there are two wires coming from the remote pushbutton press unit. The third wire you mentioned may be for the light function or something else. To confirm if you have the correct connections, examine the wire colors on the rear of the remote control box and where it enters the main motor unit and see what is what. To check if you have the correct switching, disconnect the wires from the RED/WHITE quick connectors on the motor unit, and check the wires with a multimeter - there should be no residual AC or DC current between them in either position when the remote button is pressed, and open circuit when it is released, and a short (zero ohms) only when it is pressed. If not, go back and re-check.

Once you are convinced you have the correct wires, all you have to do to emulate your remote control is to temporarily short the connection for the RED/WHITE quick connector on the motor unit - try it with a short piece of wire to check it actually works. If it works, connect the two remote control wires back and continue. If not, go back and check you have identified the correct wires.

You can now proceed to connect a remotely controlled unit that will emulate a press button switch from HomeAssistant. A dry relay to be on the safe side, and power the lot from the same power outlet as the motor unit. You are effectively adding another remote control panel, wired in parallel with the existing unit, and controlled remotely from HomeAssistant. You still retain the ability to use the existing remote control, the HomeAssistant one, and both, transparently, and when you leave your rental, just disconnect the bits you have added and everything will revert back to how it is now. Be sure to let the other people you know you have done this as they may be alarmed the first time the door starts to move and there is nobody close by that they can see that started the activity.

You may be able to steal some current from the motor unit as they often have a robust power supply for added lamps, etc, or just set up something independently powered for peace of mind.

As to what unit you decide to do the switching, you can choose from a number of different manufacturers, based on WiFi, BlueTooth, ZigBee, or Thread/Matter etc, or just get a cheap one port relay unit and use the relay connectors NO [Normally Open] contacts across the connectors, and configure a short one second press in your yaml button code. Power it all off a phone charger and put it in a neat box next to the motor unit for a professional finish.

The other approach where you emulate a button press on a second remote should be considered from a cost basis, not only for the added remote control, but also for the ongoing battery replacement issue, and possible range/distance of control.

Intercepting and replicating wireless signals to emulate a remote control may involve security rolling code issues. Sounds complicated and would probably cost a little more.

Ask if not sure, ask, and be sure to let us know how your final solution went.

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Thanks everyone for the detailed responses! I appreciate it!

@cohoman: Ultimately, what are you wanting to accomplish?

I don’t want to have to carry a door remote. I ride a motorcycle and right now I have to pull up to the garage door to the point where my wheel is touching and hammer the button in my pocket and hope it eventually decides to open. Meanwhile, I have access to Siri through my helmet and Siri is happy to talk to Home Assitant on my behalf so “Hey Siri, open the garage door” is all I need. I don’t care about knowing if the garage door is open or closed so I’m leaning for simple solutions.

@k8gg: The most renter friendly way is likely for you to buy a dummy door remote […]

Ha, that’s actually a pretty fun idea. I’ll still need to get a ladder (gotta make it learn the door control) and I’ll need to buy a soldering kit… There was also a moment when I went “I bet I could clone the remote with something like a RPi…” but that feels like an overkill solution.

Appreciate the links; I’ll give them a deeper look!

@IOT7712 dude I really appreciate all the detail! Yeah, I think one of the buttons is, as you suggest, likely for the light control.

I was kind of hoping I could tap into the red and white wires to send my own signal but from what I’ve seen from Googling that wouldn’t be a good idea (someone correct me if I’m wrong).

What you’re suggesting is basically what I was considering. I’d still need to hook it into the drive unit but from what I can tell that’s pretty common.

A buddy of mine (who is much better at making magic smoke than I am) and I talked it through a bunch and he suggested doing this:

image
image2280×1359 110 KB

I could accomplish this with a Shelly 1 Gen4 and just wiring up the Shelly directly to the wall with a NEMA plug. Is that safe to do or do I need to get a little power supply for this?

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Don’t think the ladder is needed. Check the manual. You obviously can use a ladder to learn your new door control remote from the opener unit itself, but very likely you can also make the opener learn you new remote via the existing wall control / wall panel.

If you are planning to power the Shelly with 120VAC (or 240V? don’t know where you are), based on your wiring plan, on top of the bigger Shelly 1, the mini gen4 or mini gen3 would/should also suffice.
Depend on how big the shared garage is, it could be a lot of wires, plus you will need 2 types / 2 gauges of wires.

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120VAC (or 240V? don’t know where you are)

North America so yeah, 120.

it could be a lot of wires

Judge my landlord but the way the garage door opener is set up is there’s an extension cord (I should mention it’s a appropriately rated one, it’s not as sketch as it sounds) running along the ceiling to the drive unit so plugging whatever I’m going to do into it would add almost very little actual load.

So just hooking a NEMA plug directly into a Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 should be OK? Sweet! Should be easier to figure out a housing for it since it’s smaller.