tl;dr:
Try logging in and then try to upload them. Seems the uploader is broken if you are not logged in.
Long version:
I tried uploading the zip myself and also got an issue. I thought maybe they changed something, so I exported them again according to their guidelines (How to generate Gerber and Drill files in KiCAD 9), but still didn’t work. I remembered that the preview is just sometimes bugged, but it looks fine in their gerber viewer. So I wanted to look it up in my upload history, but wasn’t logged in. I logged in, uploaded again and it worked! Hope it also does for you, lemme know!
On the CPL file: I guess it throws an error, because the gerber upload was bugged. I never used it, as I solder the boards myself; I never used their service for that. I exported according to their guidelines, hope it works when the gerber upload works. Let me know if not, I can try to re-export it using this guide: How to generate the BOM and Centroid file from KiCAD
hi, did you find out? i have those easy2 cool at home too, conduta and wall mount. I just saw this thread and im planning to build the esphome if possible.
@jonas_man Yes I’m pretty sure they are midea! There was a picture I saw of a control board from another midea brand that matches my Vulcano ducted one perfectly.
I haven’t got mine integrated yet but this thread looks like the way to do it
@Snoopey Let me know how it goes, i recently bought a WaveShare ESP32-S3 rs485+CAN for another automation and could easily program another EspHome for my ACs. I have easy2 cool wall mounts and one conduta, maybe they have that XYE connector. Im not at home for some months and cannot check inside for the connectors.
wow you made it! looks nice! Im thinking to upgrade the rooms to the wifi version and use some Bosch Integration that is compatible with them. Maybe i could use Esp for this one since these condutas are way harder to upgrade.
Logging in succesfully processes the gerber files.
The CPL file is not accepted though.
I’ve looked at it and it’s not in the expected JLCPCB format.
The BOM file does not contain the LCSC part number so that PCBA goes through.
If you want, I can look into this the following days and make a PR on your project with updated CPL and BOM if I fix them and they are accepted by JLCPCB.
Mine does have a control panel in the wall yeah. My setup also worked if I unplugged the wall unit and plug the ESP32 into there, but I couldn’t plug both into the same line at the same time, neither worked properly.
As it is plugged into the XYE ports, when I send commands to the ESP32 the wall unit updates accordingly, it just doesn’t beep.
The 12V is coming from the AC - I think it’s from the comms line that goes to the outdoor unit and I’m pretty sure the wall units.
Hi everyone, in my attempt to simplify the process of controlling an air conditioner locally, I installed two units in my house. I did some research beforehand, and the MIDEA brand apparently offers a USB port where you can connect an ESP32 to control the unit locally.
I bought two models: a more powerful one for the living room (and yes, it has a USB port, and it’s easy to configure simply by plugging it in), and a less powerful one for the bedroom. This is where I ran into a problem.
In this case, the manufacturer has decided not to connect its Wi-Fi controller via USB, but rather with a board soldered directly onto the motherboard.
Anyway, I did some investigating and saw that it had a ‘port’ called CN3 WIFI and I thought, great, I can solder the 4 wires (GND, 5V and the 2 data wires) from the USB there and I’ll have this air conditioner working too… but no, I’ve been doing tests with a multimeter and only the GND shows continuity and with the board powered on none of the other 3 give me any readings.
So, what can I do to get my new AC MIDEA working locally with an ESP32?
as you can see this is a part population option and i guess that the wifi module on the board connects to the same wires you need (and therefore some briges for this interface was not installed)
What other connectors has your board?
If you are familiar with electronics (and warranty conditions ) you may remove the wifi interface and use the uart it uses. (Needs investigation, which communication takes place and if your display works without the default iot interface) I have the same IoT Kit Module on a wall controller and there it has a 0-Ohm resistor where you can at least remove the power to the module easilly.
By the way, the onboard pcb looks like the USB-Stick circuit without the plastic housing but with a RF-Protection cap instead:
I’m in a similar spot where I have 2 v1.1 sticks which run fine per this setup (Midea units with white PCB) but when I followed either the same or the one you posted for v2.1, i’m unable to turn off the display (Midea units with newer black PCB).
Sadly my display resolution does not allow identification of the obvious SOC chip and surrounding components, but I would be astonished if it not one that can be updated with custom firmware to speak with HomeAssistant.
A closer up clear picture in higher resolution would be most welcome. A vendor supplied circuit diagram would be the best.
Inspecting the chips on the main controller board and what pins the external WiFi board connects to may prove enlightening, especially for any possible voltage level incompatibility issues, and may provide a simple path for reverse engineering the control protocols if they have not already been documented.
) you may remove the wifi interface and use the uart it uses. (Needs investigation, which communication takes place and if your display works without the default iot interface) I have the same IoT Kit Module on a wall controller and there it has a 0-Ohm resistor where you can at least remove the power to the module easilly.