I have a momentary switch (press → returns) in the bathroom that turns on the ventilator for 10 minutes (there is a timer in the electrical cabinet). After 10 minutes, the light and ventilator go off.
The wiring is as such with brown being live:
By this switch is a regular socket, which is dead if the light in the bathroom is not working. So it is only usable if the light is on.
Is there a Zigbee switch/relay that I could use to simulate the press of the momentary switch in this configuration?
Yes.
But your description is confusing. You want relay to simulate fan switch, but your socket depends on light switch…
So is there one or more switches all together?
Sorry about the confusion. This is the situation:
- The fan momentary switch is not dependent on the light in the bathroom to be turned on
- The power socket is dependent on the light in the bathroom to be turned on
I mentioned this since the power socket has only live wire and I can not use the neutral from the socket.
I don’t follow. Image shows brown and blue wires. Is the blue wire (neutral) not available?
Yellow and blue wire are for the bulb on the bottom of the switch.
Black and brown wires go in the switch to turn on the ventilator as well as the bulb. The colours are random. I suppose the electrician just used different colours to distinguish the wires.
No electrician use random colors, but maybe it was installed by random person…
Is the indicator light always on? Do you have multimeter?
The brown wire is live. The black wire is live when the switch is being pressed.
The blue wire is live only while the ventilator is working (10 minutes after the last switch press). This is when the light in the switch is on. Otherwise the light in the switch if off when the ventilator is not working.
So the question is yellow/green, is it protective earth or neutral…? Color indicates PE, but here colors don’t seem to count anything here…
Anyway, it would be much easier to place your zigbee switch where the relay is located.
Any more details on the timer on the cabinet since that’s the one cutting off the power
Gonna watch this one, because I have a similar case.
My case is a 220V ceiling light in the living room (this would be your fan), controlled by some momentary push buttons. Your momentary push button (probably on 24V) feeds into a DIN rail mounted timer in your mains cabinet. This is probably a 24/220V relay feeding the fan, as is the case for my living room ceiling light.
The solution (at least what I figured) would be to use a remote controllable relay (wifi or zigbee), inside your mains cabinet (and possible rail-mounted next to the existing timer for a finishing touch, as Karosm suggests), that can close the 24V input circuit of the timer — momentarily, simulating a push and turning it on.
So you keep your current momentary switch in the bathroom, it will still work, and you supplement it with an additional wifi/zigbee one in the cabinet which you can control from HA.
The power socket is out of the equation, as nothing needs to be fed inside the switch for this to work. (Even though I think it strange that its power depends on the light being on, never mind).
What do you think?
What indicates 24V?
True, could as well be a 220V neon light, maybe the momentary switch is 220V as well. We will never know until @mkljun gives us some details on brand/model used, and how the momentary switch is wired.
Still, 24V or 220V, it should not really change the concept of adding a (dry contact) relay back in the cabinet to trigger the fan timer, maybe just the type used.