Hi guys. I can’t find a MQTT Irrigator component, it’s a pity, becouse this could be really useful while using mqtt actuators to activate a common irrigator.
Anyone and build something like that?
This is the sort of thing you build yourself using the services provided by HA and its ancillary products. I reckon it is unlikely to ever be included as a ‘feature’.
Components for this that could be useful:
- ESPhome
- An ESP board, 8266 or 32
- A relay board
- Some 12 or 24v valves
- A power supply
- Some Miflora devices as BLE moisture sensors if you want to get fancy (you can automate using weather forecasts as well).
- Use MQTT or esphome api
There are automation and interface examples if you search the forum.
Indeed there is no generic component for an irrigation system. The 5 integrations for irrigation are just combinations of switches and sensors that access the proprietary irrigation hardware.
There are so many approaches to this. I have seen everything from “turn the sprinkler on for 2 hours every day” right through to complex automations based on tansevapouraton calculations, weather predictions/history and so on, plus miflora style sensors. You can get as complicated as you like.
But as @tom_l said all you really need is a valve whuch is on or off. Mqtt already supports that.
Thanks, now it’s much clear to me. I was pretty sure irrigator was a peculiar kind of accessory.
Using a switch as a vale will be good. Thanks a lot.
Hello, I’m kinda late to the party but I did this last week with a generic 12v valve, a transformer, and a sonoff basic, I need to tidy it a little bit but it’s working.
@loudmicro First thing I see is you seem to have incorrectly wired your sonoff and LV transformer (LED DRIVER)? I see brown going to the teminals marked N and blue going to the terminals marked L?
Net result you are switching the neutral conductor, you need to rectify that asap.
For best results you also need to shorten the single insulation from the 240V lead to the terminals on the sonoff and properly fit the cable retainer to ensure the cables do not pull free and there is no single insulation exposed.
Next, I would suggest that you urgently need to think about removing the solenoid valve from the enclosure you have your sonoff and the transformer in.
If there is a leak or a damaged or loose 240V cable contacts the bare metal I see the results could be quite unsafe.
I suggest that you should run the low voltage from within the enclosure to a position outside the electrical enclosure. The solenoid should be mounted somewhere securely and looking at the type of solenoid it should also be a weatherproof position.
As well, ideally you should also have much better physical segregation of the 240V and the 12V wiring within the enclosure. Using double insulation on the 12V lead to the solenoid would help give you better physical segregation within your enclosure.
Regards wellsy
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@loudmicro and for the benefit of others here’s a couple of photos to illustrate what I am encouraging you all to do with wiring your sonoff’s.
Two types of cable used both .75mm²
The first (above left) is two core (no earth) and best choice as sonoff has no terminal for earth and your transformer requires no earth. Below shows the 2 core after connecting to the sonoff note blue neutral on the left with the ‘N’ directly above and the brown on the right with the ‘L’ also above (printed on the sonoff ‘Input’). The second (right above) is 3 core.
Below shows the steps that I like to use to prepare this type of cable. Except for the earth the two core is prepared similarly.
Note: copper cores are tightly twisted and the addition of heatshrink.
Below is the two core after disassembly.
That’s what you are hoping to see…evidence that the cables were well contacted by the screws.
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I’ll get to it this weekend, already bought another box, thanks for the imput!
Do you have a preference for passing earth through?
@loudmicro Very welcome!
There are a lot of other types of solenoids which have a fully encapsulated coil and they are much more suited to outdoor use as well…maybe a few bucks more but worth it.
@hijinx Sorry for the delay but below is what I recommend for passing earth through.
Steps and materials required:
Prepare the 3 core .75 mm² cable.
Prepare some suitable size heatshrink.
Now position both pieces of shrink as shown below. Shrink the smaller piece over the active and neutral conductors first.
Correctly position the larger shrink over the earth and double up on the first shrink.
NOTE: See the red .75 mm² bootlace terminal on the earth…best practice but not strictly required
2-4 mm² Din rail terminals and Standard Din Rail required: Purchase from any good electrical wholesaler
Completing ALL your installations in this manner will ensure a reliable and safe result for many years to come!
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@loudmicro Much better arrangement for sure.
I have some concerns looking at the photo showing the black lead running into the top of the box through a grommet type entry. That should really be a poly compression gland for a better seal against water tracking down the cable and also for better anchoring the lead.
What if kids (or cats?) were to pull at the cable?
A compression gland would go someway to stopping the cable being easily pulled out but ideally there would be a secondary anchor device within the box.
Still this is a far superior arrangement than before and thanks for listening mate!
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@loudmicro Below is what I suggest as a layout guide and the best equipment types for garden or shadehouse watering automation.
I use (and recommend) 24V AC coils as they are industry standard which is designed to be installed unprotected within wet areas. Sun protection is advisable for longer life. By using 24V AC coils you will get much longer life out of the relays you use to turn them on and off.
The brand I have always liked is Richdel (USA made) however there are lots of chinese copies these days. Buying valves of this type allows you the flexibility to be able to manually turn them on if required. My main consideration when I choose to purchase is spare parts availablity. Some of my older solenoid valves are approaching 20 years old and still working.
Below you can see the encapsulated coil and the ‘manifold’ fittings I use.
Best practice for solenoid valve installations is that it should always have an isolation valve first. For me (due to valve failures in the past) I always have a ‘Master’ solenoid which turns on the water to the individual irrigation solenoid valves. Then after that I use handy ‘manifold’ fittings to allow multiple vales to be added easily. I use 25mm types as I need to get maximum flow to irrigation areas and using solenoid valves will reduce your available flow in any case.
I protect my ELV connections from the wet environment in a simple inverted cup (see below) made by using a short piece of 90mm storm water tubing with a standard 90mm cap which is glued on. I run 240V rated 1.5mm² multicore for my 24V DC cables from my control enclosure to the inverted cup which is mounted close enough to allow all coils leads to reach inside. After terminating I also cover each connection with heat shrink and tie back the completed wiring to the multicore cable and the mesh structure to ensure they are secure.
The installation shown here is about 5 years old and is inside my shadehouse so is constanly covered in water and fertilizer solutions.
Being inside the shadehouse is also further protection from wandering children etc.
Hey, looks good! about the cable I’m putting it inside one of these : Link (dont know the name in english. Also the entrance of every cable to the box is sealed inside with a silicone pistol, that should keep the water away
That’s a duct as I know them and that will definitely give positive segregation from the single insulted LV cables…expensive though?
As for the entry with silicone seal…ok that’s fine but what is your solution for anchoring the cable to stop it being pulled out?
Kudos to you for working to get your solution right mate!