Optimal equipment to automate EV charging with PV and battery

Current equipment
Tesla wall charger: 3 phase 11kw 400v 16a
Porsche wall charger: 3 phase 22kw 400v 32a
PV: 30kw
Battery and inverter: Anker Solix X1 12kw inverter x 2, Anker 50kwh battery

After a bit of research, it seems you can’t start/stop or change charging amp on the chargers, instead those need to be done on vehicles.
It was such a pain to integrate Tesla EV to HA and I haven’t even bothered to integrate Taycan to HA.
I’m aware of EVCC, but the Anker Solix X1 inverter isn’t currently supported, and Porsche Taycan setup is more than just plug and play, so I’m not too keen to rely on EVCC.

In this case, the simplest way to start/stop EV charging based on PV output might be a smart relay? Shelly makes one but it’s only rated to 240V. Is there any smart relay rated for 400v 32a that works with HA? Or is there any other simple way to automate EV charger based on PV output(prioritise EV charging to battery charging)?

As you note, EV cars generally have a mind of their own. I have BYD Dolphin and it does what is wishes and goes to a deep sleep and only will wake up at one scheduled time per day, PLUS if it sees no offer of charge from the charger before it goes to deep sleep, it actually won’t wake at scheduled time (that took a while to figure). So for me, in the end it has been easiest to go with an enegry plan with free energy 11am-2pm and that is then the cars default wakeup time (with a backup plan to change to the next cheapest plan which is midnight-6am, thus manually changing the car’s schedule wake up time). However my system is smaller than yours (5kW) and I don’t have a battery, but you may get best oucome to think about time schedules of when you are likely to have excess capacity so you at least know that at that time hopefully the car and charger will agree that charging may start, but leave it up to the car as to WHEN it charges (if your cars have such an option).

You can ‘daisy chain’ your relays, so that the HomeAssistant driven one’s OUTPUT is used as the switching INPUT for the 400volt 32Amp one.
This way only the second relay needs to be heavy duty, and will faithfully follow the switching pattern of the first one.
Simplez!
The secret is calling the ‘relay’ a ‘circuit breaker’, as they are exactly the same thing.
Ask your local electrician. It is a common solution in a three phase industrial control situation, and the ‘contact breakers’ are very common and relatively cheap.

There are Solid State Relays which accept 3V DC input. they can directly be controlled via ESP8266 outputs.
you need 3x 240V relays, DC control to AC switching and a decent size heat-sink.
it is only 400V three phase, so if only one phase is connected to the relay, then the relay doesn’t know anything about the 400V if you won’t tell the relay that there is another line.
It is 240V to ground and only 400V to the other line with 120° (360°/3phase=120°) phase-rotation.

so get 3x SSD relay 3VDC to 240VAC 60A + big heatsinks.

Solid State Relays is way overkill for switching the load. Just use cheap circuit breakers and skip the huge heatsinks.
You also don’t have to worry about circuit isolation, ground loops, fuses, power surges, zero crossing points, etc.
Assuming you only switch on/off a few times a day, the circuit breakers will last decades and are generic, so cheap and easy to replace.
If you get HomeAssistant relays that are DIN mounting, you can even mount them side by side with their respective circuit breakers in a neat control box or your existing switchboard. Relatively cheap and elegant.
If you are switching two or three phases at the same time, one HomeAssistant relay can drive the two or three circuit breaker inputs in parallel.

Your Shelly relay is fine for the voltage. Each line is only 230V - 240V. But it can only switch 16A per line which is not enough.

ESP8266 with 3VDC SSD relay to 240VAC 60A
400V(230V*1,73)60A1,73=40kW
A PZEM-017 current monitor might be helpful too?

The Shelly only has to switch the INPUT current for the main circuit breakers, at most a few dozen milliamps, as it has dry contacts. The circuit breakers do the heavy lifting.
An electrician will understand, as they will be doing the wiring anyway with these amounts of current to be switched.

I believe this is the simplest way of doing it.
Since I’m no electrician, I got a bit lost with “circuit breaker”, “relay” and “contactor” while researching solutions before coming here to ask.
When you say “daisy chain”, do you mean the Shelly Pro 3? And daisy chain the 3 inputs and outputs?
Alternatively, will the combination of Shelly PRO 3EM and this add-on achieve what I want? Or maybe the Shelly Pro 4PM?
I don’t really need the energy meter part as I only need to monitor the whole house consumption from the Anker inverter.

I know Tuya makes smart circuit breaker, but I highly doubt they meet my local(Australia) standard.

The Shelley 4PM won’t handle the amps required and there is absolutely no volt, amp, or watt specifications at that Aussie website you linked to, that gives any clues on capacities and capabilities - a distinct way to discourage sales! No links to datasheets or specifications!

Aussie three phase is 415volts, so devices rated at 400 volts may be sailing a bit close to the wind. Jump to the next higher common voltage of 600 volts will allow a margin of comfort.

From the questions you are raising and the possible solutions you are offering, you appear to be a little out of your depth, and could I venture it will be far cheaper to consult an experienced licenced electrician who (by Australian law) MUST be engaged to do the electrical works you need anyway. They will understand that the contactor needs to be derated for suitability in your climate location, and which contactor to buy to switch the voltage and current you need and wire it safely to Australian Standards.

Colloquially: You are shopping at Bunnings, but you should be shopping at Middys. You are asking for advice at a website where people are offering solurions that might work for a thousand or so watts, but you are needing to switch many upwards of FIFTY thousand watts. If you get it wrong, you only have two expensive cars, and maybe your house to offer to the fire gods, and insurance will be asking many questions.

When in doubt, ask a professional. You may find an industrial contactor (I’m guessing a 600volt, 100amps, three pole contactor with 240 volt input that is driven by the 240volt relay controlled by HomeAssistant might do the job) will be ten percent the cost of a fancy Shelley that grossly underperforms for your requirements. Tie that in with a cheap Tuya style 240 volt single pole switch (or cheap Shelley if you must) to switch the contactor, and put it out of the sun and rain, along with robust wiring. Your misunderstanding of the number of channels (1) and contactors (only 1 device with multiple poles) required also confirms this.

You haven’t said how these devices are going to be hooked together. Do you have manual switches, different connectors you unplug, and how do you exclude the possibility of both cars pulling current at one time from the mains or battery? Do you now expand the number of contactors and channels, or have some sort of interlocking controller that accepts commands from HomeAssistant but follows its own safety rules in case your power is interrupted and comes back with catastrophic ‘all devices on’ status? How about a few milliseconds between switching one contactor off and another on? You wouldnt want a pair of contactors to short that much current - even the MIG welder on special at your local Aldi supermarket only uses two thousand watts, not fifty thousand. Think of how many sparks it could ignite.

Yes, my sparky has upgraded my house from single phase to 3, wired lots of Fibaro relays, Tuya presence sensors(12v), EV chargers and what not for me. I do trust him a lot, but he doesn’t seem to know all the available “smart” options on the market apart from Wiser(Clipsal). Hence, I was gonna ask here and show him what I’ve found, and he’ll let me know if it’ll work for my intended purpose.

The plan is to have each EV charger on their own circuit breaker and contactor, limited to 11kw. That way, the Anker inverter can prioritise load(EV) over battery charging, and chargers are only turned on between 10am-2pm and 12am-6am(8c from grid) in case of battery ran out of juice. On a sunny day, the PV system produces 200kwh in summer and half of that in winter on my existing 20kw Fronius inverter. So in theory, there should be enough PV production to fully charge the 50kwh battery and 2 EVs from 50% to full with normal house load during the day.

Come to think of it, it’s much more complicated than I think. IRC, the house is 3 phase 62a each phase, not sure if it can handle 2 x EV charger(11kw each), 2 x ducted A/C(15kw peak each), 2 x electric hottie and a pool pump simultaneously. I might have to set it up so that only 1 EV charger can work at once like you suggested.

Anyways, really appreciate your input, I have learnt a lot. It’s time to have a chat with my sparky.

If you distribute your 240volt appliances that draw a lot of current evenly across each of the three phases, you should be right with 63amps per phase (around 65Kw total) if everything is not fully on at once. Your power company will probably frown on you asking for them to upgrade your local substation transformer and run new wires along the poles to your premises to give you 100amps per phase, just so you can charge both cars simultaneously, as well as air-condition your pool surrounds while the pump is going. Limiting your EV charger to only 11Kw may not be the best use of it.

Your sparky will know the limitations, and how much all the thick heavy copper wire snaking across your property inside conduit is going to cost you, and how many tens of thousands of dollars the power company is willing to charge you for all the upgrades. The power savings by using ‘free’ solar may take many years to be recuperated with this complexity/flexibility.

How far did you get with this? Currently wading through similar issues (Macan EV, Porsche mobile connect charger (why oh why did I waste my money on that thing…ignorant fool)), Anker Solix + 30kw system.

Anker’s EVSE is supposed to turn up here in Aus at the end of the year. I’m hoping that that is going to be a simple-ish plug & pray solution.

Amber are promising EV charge control soon, and currently available through ChargeHQ, which they’ve bought. Limited equipment list (specific OCPP chargers) - but probably cheaper to grab one of their supported chargers (I’ve seen 2nd hand flavours around for $600ish) than try a custom solution?

My other thought was to do up a 3P version of the openEVSE, which has OCPP, and use one of these Hager contactors to deal with the juice (My 3P sockets are 20A, and that Hager will just fit in the standard openEVSE box. Something beafier probably won’t).

I’m just not sure how easy it would be to configure this to work with ChargeHQ.