This is the wall panel I have now.
I do need something there to get the WAF. But I’m worried the one I have isn’t going to play nicely.
And it’s a craftsman with a purple learn button.
I was just noting that sniffing the RF communication between a standard remote fob and the gdo (e.g. Noob Diaries: Attacking Garage Doors with Rolling Codes using a Flipper Zero) is likely much easier than cracking a well-secured WLAN. Obviously you want to secure a garage as much as feasible, but there is a point of diminishing returns - is it worth setting up and maintaining isolation for the ratgdo on the internal network, given the existing, wider direct RF attack vector.
actually I originally setup wifi for my iot vlan without password. While it wasnt big deal for light switches, we are now 7yrs down the road and I have some “security” devices on this network that I am slowly moving off. your comment made me realize that I should do this faster since thieves are more techy these days.
your correct, waste of time to worry about physical theft from hi tech robber as there are easier means. Rock through a window is much easier than breaking even weak encryption
ESPHome has API keys - it’s probably not in the firmware for the ratgdo because we’d all end up having the same one (if we all used the same precompiled firmware).
What you can add is:
api:
encryption:
key: "<32 byte key>"
Native API Component — ESPHome
When you go to adopt the device in Home Assistant, it will ask you for that key. That key is used to encrypt all the traffic on the API and then you can rest easy. If someone is going to hack your encrypted API traffic, decode it, etc… and open your garage door - they’re doing some serious maximum effort when then could just sawzall a hole in your garage door and get in WAY easier.
There we go. This is what I’m looking for!
To secure a ratgdo, the proper way is to:
- “Take Control” in the ESPHome software.
- Disable the web server.
- Modify this encryption key.
Once I do this, other devices on my LAN can’t access it without also having that encryption key.
Fantastic! This is the base-level security I’d expect.
And you’re saying I haven’t had to use a password up to now is because they all shared the same encryption key.
No, encryption is not enabled by default. The other poster was just remarking that an encryption key likely couldn’t be added in the firmware (even if default encryption was desired), because if so, everyone using that specific firmware would have the same encryption key (making it basically pointless).
Rage Against The Garage Door Opener
…I’m sure you already know based on the age of this post, was scrolling, figured I’d answer in case anyone else is scrolling…
I was using a ratgdo V2.5i in dry contact mode with my Genie Excelerator (model ISD1000) for over a year and that didn’t work with the obstruction sensors as they are 12 volts. But with the release of the ratgdo32 which supports a wider obstruction sensor voltage range, I ordered one and installed it last night. The obstruction sensors work properly and update instantly in Home Assistant, and I thought I’d share the wiring diagram in case anyone is searching.
How is this unit that you posted on Ebay different from Ratgod32 posted on Paul’s website?
Thanks
The link he has placed to eBay is for a case that he is 3d printing.
Thanks.
1- What is the difference between Version 2.5 and Ratgdo32 in terms of features? (not physical like USB-micro or C)
2- If the firmware for this is opensource and one has a ESP32, then can flash it to become a ratgod32? and would only the pins have to be soldered?
3- What is the vehicle detection stay in garage or left garage for practically?
4- What is the need for reed switch if Ratgod32 can detect door is open or close?
5- For dry contact older openers, any contact relay can do the job?
6- Is there an outside keypad or finger print unit that can go with Ratgod32?
7- Is below Chamberlain model and keypad supported by Ratgod32 or laser version?
I can answer #2 - no. There are additional part to the circuitry. If you’re interested, there’s the rat-ratgdo project (GitHub - Kaldek/rat-ratgdo: Open source schematics for ratgdo PCB)
Other bits that I can answer less conclusively, but from my understanding:
- the v2.5 ratgdo was based on the ESP8266. The updated one is an ESP32.
- I’m not familiar with any vehicle detection in this.
- use of reed switch is needed for some openers (I think mostly dry-contact ones)
- I don’t have any experience with dry contact openers and ratgdo.
- you can continue to use existing keypads, or you can work out anything that links to HA. Nothing works directly with ratgdo.
- that’s a Security+ 2.0 opener (round yellow button, not jackshaft), so yes, the whole ratgdo line is designed around that.
Thanks for the info.
I have decided against Ratgod32. It is probably better to buy a Security+ button or Remote Control ($10-$15) and a Shelly 2 which supports MQTT.
This is also the safest option probably because it leaves the door safety to it’s original opener unlike Ratgdo32 which claims to know the position of the door etc…or something like that.
The biggest issue with Ratgdo32 is $65 USD price and it can’t be used for anything else maybe in future while Shelly 2 is less than $40 and can be used for other things in future if needed. If Ratgdo was about $20 or $30 or $40 I maybe have still bought it.
Is there anything else that Ratgd32 does that a Shelly 2 + a Remote control can not do?
For Security+ 2 doors:
- discrete open and close commands
- light control in HA
- motion sensor status in HA
- obstruction status in HA
- native door status without reed switches/door sensors/etc in HA
- lock/unlock wireless remotes in HA
If you’re handy with a solder iron, that could work. But you’ll also need to add a sensor for door position - a tilt sensor is usually what’s used, for $10-20.
You still won’t have control over your light, nor visibility into the other sensors like obstruction and (if your wall control has it) motion.
It’s cheaper than the Chamberlain’s own wifi add-on thing, plus you end up with full control over the garage door and it doesn’t use cloud, so you KNOW you won’t be charged ever in the future, and will never lose access to it. You don’t even need Home Assistant; it has its own web interface if you really needed to use it that way. Plus, being ESPHome based, you can tweak its firmware however you like.
Hi @doctorkb, thanks.
1- I think you mean sensor just to know if the door closed or stayed open in case there was obstruction and not because of safety as safety is already handled by the opener since remote or door button is used. This relay will simply click that button so the door will stop if there is an obstruction and retract. A sensor will however let me know if the door closed or not. Is that the only reason you mean a sensor is needed?
2- Why is light control needed? I have other controlled potlights in the garage and light for the chamberlaine turns ON and goes OFF when according to chamberlaine which is ok with me. It will turn off after a while.
3- Why is visibility into obstruction needed? If I have a separate sensor that tells me if door closed or not then that is good enough as one has to physically walk and remove the obstruction. Also, a camera will be installed so it shows if door closed or not. After sensor shows door failed to close, camera can be looked at for assurance.
Am I correct with above assumptions? thanks much.
Mine supports app already free with MyQ without anything to add on so there is no price for me there but not planning to use it anyway.
I want it to be used with Home Assistant. If anything fails, I have a remote and key to garage. Don’t see the standalone esphome based advantage.
Not sure what full control means other than open garage door and close.
I think it is expensive because it is an ESP32 board and adding shipping…and being an open source…Some DIYers don’t want to pay that much *probably. It will capture more market if prices are better or there is a clear advantage which so far I don’t see anyone show it.
I’m using this version which is based on ESP32 and plugs into 110VAC - so no need for a PSU.
It’s $21 ( at least until tariffs are added:-) )
https://www.gelidus.ca/product/gelidus-research-ac-powered-ratgdo-compatible-board/