I’ve seen that option. I wouldn’t trust that power supply nor the 3-d printed enclosure to meet insurance company standards in the case of a fire.
In order to be effective, HA needs to know the status of the door.
You’d never be able to set any sort of script or automation to close the door. Without a status indicator, you wouldn’t even be able to properly template a cover entity. You also wouldn’t be able to interface with a voice assistant because it wouldn’t be able to close or open the door.
And wouldn’t it suck if you had driven away and thought “I didn’t close the door” and pressed your remote “button”… only to find out that you did close the door and instead left it wide open for the entire day?
We were talking about tradeoffs. You’re cheaping out over a minimal difference, and we’re trying to show why your approach doesn’t meet the same standard. If you don’t want light control… fine.
You’re talking about a lot of manual observation and sensing just to save a few dollars. Your Shelly is going to be ~$20, your additional Chamberlain remote/wall switch will be ~$20, and your door sensor will be $10-20. Total is $50-60, and you still have to solder the Shelly to the switch. You’d have about 40% of the functionality. If money is really that tight for you, I’d say you’re in the wrong hobby.
Most of us have chosen to disconnect our opener from the wifi - Chamberlain has already shown their cards in how they want to close their ecosystem, and I have no interest in them having any data about my garage door usage. Not to mention, why would you want to flip over to a different app? The whole point of HA integration is to work towards a single pane of glass interface.
Other than screwing the Chamberlain jerks who screwed us all a year-and-a-half ago (which, I admit is enough for me to pay double ratgdo’s price), you might be right.
We’ve already told you about light control and sensor visibility. You can also open the door partway (i.e. you tell ratgdo to open it 25% and it gets it pretty darn close to that).
It’s not just an ESP dev board, though. There are a few other components that are needed to interpret the signal correctly as well as the connectors on the board. Paul has also gone to the effort of having the board produced commercially for an integrated solution rather than a dev board tacked onto a breadboard.
I’ve linked to rat-ratgdo if you want to DIY the ratgdo hardware. Personally, I think that’s like leaving a negative tip in a US restaurant – Paul did the work to figure out the protocol and implement it in software and hardware. Even if he’s getting $20-30 profit off each board, he’s still “working” for peanuts.
You do you. It’s a dumb and cheapskate move to do it like you’re proposing, but if you need to learn the hard way, go for it… I don’t know what you’re hoping to gain from the community wisdom in these posts.
Hi @rssorensen this is a good find. Is this doing exactly what Ratgdo32 does in terms of function and software and only looks are different? Is this using the Ratgdo32 firmware and opesource code?
There was some discussion on this months ago. It is the rat-ratgdo circuitry with a 120V power supply. If you are at all concerned about what your insurance company might say in the case of a fire, this isn’t the device for you – it isn’t UL or CSA listed and it isn’t clear whether the materials it is printed out of are even suitable for line voltage enclosures.
I see. That is a risk.
Otherwise, this does what Ratgdo32 does and is using the same code from Paul Wieland?
Also, is the Paul Wieland’s device fire code compliant? Does that connect inline for power or needs USB?
Paul’s device is USB-powered – low voltage and not a fire risk.
AFAIK, that device does what ratgdo32 does, yes, using Paul’s code.
All the information on how to use this device can be found on the developer’s website.
Does anyone know if the RatGDO device can be used as a bluetooth proxy for Home assistant?
Hi All,
I’m looking into making the garage door of my elderly mother’s place smart.
AFAIK the PCB is either a CB11 OR CB22 the installation has a 3 button remote with only one button that works to open close and stop and it has optical sensors that stop the door from moving when interrupted by line of site.
I plan to order a RATGDO but am unsure of wiring the board up and do not want risk killing it.
Does anyone have experience with the CB11 or CB22 board and ratgdo?
company’s info answer this?
if not… email them, they know the device better than anyone, yes?
Thank you for your reply however this does not exactly cover the cb11 circuit board. I’ll consider contacting CB/LM but I doubt they’ll forthcoming. ![]()
Hi. I have a ratgdo hooked up to an old 90’s liftmaster unit withe the green button, with the red, white and black wires hooked up to the respective contacts on the door opener.
I can toggle the door open or closed ok, but it doesn’t know the position of the door, or respond to commands to open or close. What am I missing? I don’t see any other contacts on the opener than those 3.
I haven’t seen any docs that reference the Chamberlain / Liftmaster board part number.
Usually, it’s the colour of the “Learn” button that is documented. You shouldn’t need to take the cover off your opener to connect RATGDO, unless you’re going really fancy and powering it from the opener directly.
Hey everyone!
I wanted to share a garage door monitor and notification script that I have put together which works nicely with my Ratgdo.
You can find it here:
What it does:
• Sends instant notifications when your garage door opens or closes
• Provides intelligent reminders if a door has been left open too long
• Helps prevent accidentally leaving your garage door open
• Keeps you informed of all door activity in real time
• Includes predefined notification messages or lets you write your own custom text
Let me know what you think.
I just installed my first ratgdo32 disco and am doing another one this weekend. I have the basic stuff working and am trying to customize the firmware to use the buzzer in addition to the standard auto-close timer.
I was about to start creating these types of monitors and alerts so thanks for making this available!
I have the same problem. Did you find a resolution yet?
Yes - here is the link to the solution that worked: Ratgdo - local mqtt control for your Chamberlain/Liftmaster security+ 2.0 garage door opener - #433 by dwdonnelly
- Has anyone compiled a list of Security 2.0 models?
- Is there any consideration for making a logic board that replaces the internal logic board on an opener altogether? I mean, how complicated can it be? Chuck the proprietary crap and it is just controlling a motor, right?
Yes but why when in this case you just connect via 4wires