Recommendation for sensors

Hi All

I have been looking around for wired (ethernet or other) solutions for movement and lux sensors (ideally bundled together) but could not find any commercially available ones.

The same goes for door and window sensors.

While building/ renovating a house I’d prefer to go the wired route to avoid connectivity/ interference and battery issues.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

TIA

Door and window contacts are just reed switches, and they exist in wired versions.
But they need to be connected to something that understands the signals.
A wired window/door contact with “brains” is not realistic.
The wires need to send the data in s form that the receiver understands.

I believe you need to DIY this if you want it wired.

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I guess if all the wires come to a central location then an array of sonoff mini/ shelly could do the trick.
Not wired for sure but ensuring connectivity in one central location is far easier than when the sensors are distributed.
And also no batteries!
Suppose then if I want to also use this as security I’d need to ensure that all this runs off a UPS

I used these connected to the alarm panel when installing new windows

You could I suppose connect via esp32 but will need some filtering in the input. Be easier to use a decent panel then if that with ha. I’m not a fan of security reliant on ha but that’s another duscussion

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Not sure about if that will work.
Cables have resistance and the longer and thinner the cable is the more voltage drop you will get.
I have never tried it but I believe that the length of wire you will need to wire it all to a central location will mean you need a higher voltage.
A voltage that could be to much for ESP 8266/32.

Get a long wire and test it before you mount it all.
Not sure why you want a sonoff or shelly though? Use a ESP board. That way you have all the pins available at less cost.

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Hi @versigo

Thanks for your suggestion but £45 for a reed sensor is quite hefty - what’s special about it?

Is it a vibration sensor too?

Hi @Hellis81

Didn’t think about voltage drop … but how do conventional alarm panels deal with the same issue? They all tend to work on 12v

Good idea about ESP … I’ll have to upskill myself on that!

I don’t know what voltage they had, but these days they are all wireless.
I would guess at least 12 volt.

One ESP could probably cover one room without any issues with voltage drop.
Before you start building, think about what else you want in each room now that you will add a ESP in each room.

Temperature?
Motion?
IR receiver/transmitter?

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HI @VimalO
No but it was a colour match for me.
Im a security installer by trade so know a bit about how to wire them etc
standard cheapy contacts such as this might be better
Secware Surface Contact White - Security Warehouse - £0.80

Regarding the volt drop and filtering etc. As above I have all my alarm detection connected to a control panel. I use HKC and link it to my HA with an esp32. I use my alarm for presence detection (ie if the alarm is armed fully everyone is out, if its night armed we are all in bed etc.
Filtering on inputs (is a reg requirement too) is between 300 and 800ms. This could be set in an esp32 but my alarm is standalone, ie operates on its own with 24 hour battery standby and is not reliant on cloud or HA to operate. I use a dual path communicator (ethernet and gsm) to signal alarms so regardless of what happens at home i know my alarm (and cctv with a lower standby time) are always working. I dont allow my HA to disarm the alarm but do have automations to arm.

I also use the movement sensors to turn heating of in unused rooms (i have my kids every other weekend so the other bedrooms dont need to be at ‘comfort’ temp)
Also use the door contacts for heating and lighting control, ie external door left open for 4 mins turn the heating off, if sun is set and door opens turn on the patio lights etc.

Volt drop on the circuit wont be a concern on an intruder panel as long as the run is less than 1000m with alarm cable. However if powering sensors its an issue at that length but if a normal house it wont be a problem. But higher current devices such as sounders and keypads maybe.
I have a magnetic lock on my shed door (so i can say ‘alexa open the shed door’ when i need something from the freezer. This has a peak demand of approx 500mA i have powered this locally as volt drop would be a concern and if the voltage is low the lock will be weak.

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