I have a motor with gear named “elvi 105622 FE” that belong to a Nice Garage door motor. PCB is burnt for now and I am looking to take control over it to use ESP32 with HW095. I read some specifications that motor increase and decrease speed during movements from 10 to 80% of its power. I think this is manageable using ESP32 with some tunning. My concern is about edges. It will be defined by the time of covering a full ON or OFF cycle?
HW095 is <2A DC-motor driver. I would be really surprised if your Nice motor fits to that requirement.
May I suggest you to dig some info about your motor and control board and post it here.
How much is a replacement PCB as a spare part? A complete new opener unit, complete with suitable motor?
Have you tried to repair it? What failed?
Input to motor and transformer is passed through a 1A fuse, so I think HW095 will support it.
150euro in a new PCB. The pcb was repaired once, and now probably it is easy to be repaired, but I want it to make it to work using my own esp32 and logic due their remote is not so fun to program, or it is working only with their Nice remote which I am not fan of it. The motor was installed by a company, many years ago, but now almost everything in my house is automated via esp32 so it will worth to spend some time to make it working properly.
For sure that 24V motor draws more than 1A. I would estimate stall current >10A.
Having difficulty finding the specs on the motor for current draw. Are you sure this is the part number for the motor itself? Is there a label on it that has the information on voltage and current?
I didn’t find current specs either. But from other factors I can surely tell that it’s not <1A motor. Neither <2A.
If OP posts the model of Nice, we probably find another fuse around 15-20A for the motor itself.
Comercial name: Motor head Nice SPIN SN6021 650N for sectional doors up to 10,5 m2 con embedded table SNA20.
Elvi 105622 FE is an angle gear motor with 5 wires: 2 red and blue) and 3 (brown, white and green).
Fuse amp is rated 1A despite on PCB is 2A. Box include a trafo from 240v to 24V and kpbc3504.
count from there:
If you really want to build controller from scratch, driver like this could be suitable:
So HW095 it is not rated for that amount of power.
No, it’s rated for 2A max, which at 24V is 48W.
Could it be that the motor is 230 v?
That could explain the 1 A fuse
24V is clearly printed on motor body on image above.
According to Nice instruction sheet, there are two fuses there, 15A for the motor.
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That is on the primary for the transformer, so 1A at 230v is going to be different than at 24volts needed by the motor. I also note the motor incorporates a hefty ratio step down gearbox, sacrificing speed for torque, so the current requirement may be quite light.
The two wires to the motor, red and blue, terminate on the side of the circuit board at the connector. It would be a simple exercise to see if they connect to one of the two relays hidden by that sticker with a QR code, one of which will probably be getting used in SPST mode to turn the motor on and off, and the other in DPDT to determine motor direction. The photo is not clear enough to determine the model number or ratings which are obscured, but that would be my first point of repair, to replace those two relays with ones of similar pinout and specifications - total of ten pins to unsolder and resolder - and you will find that everything else is probably fine, the relay contacts getting burnt out is quite common with industrial control boards like this.
If you wanted to make it bulletproof, put bigger relays off board and hard wire them to the PCB or motor wires directly. Ones with spade contacts could make the exercise easier. Just make sure everything is insulated well to prevent fire risk.
For the complete ‘roll-your-own replacement’ approach: Going with electronic motor control HW095 bridge in a replacement board is probably a waste when relays do the job well at extremely low cost, and little heat output. In this case a two relay DPDT Arduino style board rated at 20 or 32 Amps at 24volts will probably suffice, giving you longer life and a little headroom for power spikes. The three other wires emerging from the motor are probably torque sensors or limit switches. The motor, mains transformer, rectifier bridge and existing wires could probably be re-used with confidence they are intact. Given the 270Watt in the spec sheet, a 15A fuse on the secondary would be around right at 24V. If it constantly blows, maybe put a slow blow fuse replacement rather than up the rating to 20A
Easier to repair than have to throw everything out and start again. The cost of replacing two standard industrial relays is going to be far cheaper than the time spent to program an new controller model into HomeAssistant, even if you discover that the problem lies elsewhere on the circuit board like a bad connector, melted PCB traces near the relays, a blown fuse, or dying electrolytic capacitors.
You don’t want to slam the door with full speed, that’s why motor driver is used.
Also, some current sensor is likely needed for best results.
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Sadly the photo is not that clear for me. That might be what is connected to the heatsink between the relay and the fat capacitor, a low ohm high wattage resistor, to measure current draw, or shunted by one of the relays to give two speeds. Unlikely to be a PWM motor. If so, unfortunate placing for the longevity of the capacitor, heat being their biggest weakness. Maybe replace that capacitor as well as the relays, with a 105degree one if not already one, rather than the standard 80degree heat rated one, and test if the resistor has continuity.
Op wanted to replace the whole crap… 
Cost seems to be the determining factor. Their (and our) time appears to be free!
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@Karosm, @IOT7712 and @Hellis81 I want to thank you for your explanation and time spent in writting answers.
This afternoon I will go to an electronic engineer to fix the PCB (last time was some broken capacitor). I have removed the sticker on relays and they are like other 10A 250V (below pics). So I can use an esp32 with 4 relays to replicate DPDT logic. For other 3 wires: brown, white and green I will continue to search to find out which type of data or impulse is given then to use to stop the motor. A brute alternative is to use time for a full cycle (but it my be some “booms” when open or close until find the right amount of time needed to open and close; for opening ain’t be a problem of 5cm stopping early, but for closing even 1cm is much).
CONS for repairing/buying a new pcb: I do not like the their remote, works only few meter away not 100m as advertised, hard to pair a remote :)), expensive remote as only their can be used.
I have a slidding gate with motor where I am using esp32 to replicate remote button press via soldered contact receiving instructions. This instructions can be made via wifi or via radio (straight from remote). Also for this motor I added another 2 remote very easy.
I checkout elektroda.pl forum and this pcb is a nightmare indeed.
