Thanks James. Good points about the audio wiring, Ethernet, etc. A few years ago we removed our TV aerial and satellite dish. Since then we’ve only streamed TV, so it’s tempting not to put all those cables in again. Perhaps running empty conduit is the answer to future-proofing.
We’ve also gone away from having any Ethernet to just having a WiFi mesh. That works well, but having PoE wouldn’t be so bad for cameras.
Thinking about infrastructure is so hard! We’ve replaced storm drains, sewage drains, wiring, gas tanks, water treatment. I’ve tried to think of everything before starting work… yet I still kick myself that I didn’t put a water pipe here or a cable there, especially around the grounds.
I see your point about manual switches. I need to ponder that point because after a year of faultless HA operation, it’s hard to imagine a scheme that has hardwired switches if it doesn’t afford us the facilities that a nice Philips Dimmer or Philips Tap Dial gives. Perhaps I just need to look harder to discover products that support both requirements.
Yes. NEC doesn’t require the switch to be wired. (Of course, when the NEC was written, there were no wireless switches). Even more vague is that the code doesn’t specify what “at the room’s entry point” means. Inspectors generally approve a switch that you can reach while standing in the doorway. The code gets revisions every 3-years, but it will be another ten or fifteen years before it specifically addresses smart switches and lights. (For example, GFCI outlets were available in the late 1960’s and weren’t in the NEC until 1971, and then only outdoors. Bathrooms in 1978 and kitchen countertops in 1987.)
BTW- I was an electrician in a previous century, but I keep up with changes to the code. It is updated every three years, so it will be interesting to see what the August 2026 NEC has. “Limited Energy” (which includes Ethernet) is getting its own section for the first time rather than being currently mentioned in three sections. It looks like the biggest change will be to defining grounding rules. Nothing we need to worry about.
I’m old, so I don’t see the need for colored lights. If you want party mood lights, use RGB LED strips. In my case I use smart Z-Wave switches (and cheap LED bulbs) in the locations where I want dimmable lighting. Family room when we’re watching TV, for example).
But not having a hard not battery or wireless dependet control point at point of use is a FAIL for me
It squarely goes to just because you can doesn’t mean you should.
Remember you won’t be the only owner of the home ever. And most other humans expect switching. If I were a prospective buyer and I do NOT see hardwired switching I’m not buying the home… Period. (not having the wires would prevent me from considering a remediation because it’s now a rewire)
Because it immediately tells me that something simple like turn on the light is way over engineered and there is potential to try to turn on the light and not get it.
At its very core automation and control should NOT take away basic functionality. A d I yojr wireless button no control situation I can count at least three cases where tech prevents me from turning on a light.
Hard no.
Also ex electricians assistant ex firefighter and been doing automation since 2002 I would try to talk everyone our of this idea. Put in the damn switches many manufacturers now understand smart lighting and the endpoints can manage base switching as well as smart functionality. And yes I have strong feelings for this. I also am not a fan of home run lovolt lighting for the same reason. Get stuck not being able to turn on lights once… Or coming in a room and the switch not working… You won’t want to do it again.
What everyone here’s trying to tell you is to wire up every possible switch location even if you don’t intend on using it yourself. It’ll cost you pennies to the dollar if you do it now vs a few years down the line.
And yes, absolutely run conduit everywhere, at least 1-2 drop points per room in opposite corners.
Remember to also run pull string in each conduit & replace it each time you pull a new cable.
That’s gonna be the most future proof cable you’ll ever run in your life