Mounting a sonoff was what I was thinking of initially, but this is the only thing I can do. Our cables are going through brick walls and they are not easy to install new ones. So running a cable for the gpio is a no go.
Then I thought If I could install a sonoff touch switch, but my problem is what I posted above. There are only two wires running behind my switches and sonoff touch requires 3. Another no go.
My whole house has no lightbulbs. Every room has spotlights installed.
This is what I have. (Not exactly that, but kinda.) The bulb is not removable and I cant switch it with a smart one. Also that would be extremely expensive as every room has 4 or more of these:
They certainly need to be removable, or what do you do if one of them breaks?
I don’t know how many rooms you have, but if these are GU 10 bulbs (I assume from the picture you showed), there are really cheap ones from Ikea for less then 10 bucks each.
1 Like
They are not removable. You just by the whole spotlight.
They are not GU10.
I found a closer model to what I have, but still thats not it.
Here is how it looks like.
Anyway, there is no need to discuss if the bulbs are changeable or not, because I already know they are not.
I am trying to figure out how to integrate, what I already have, with HA.
Note: The four spotlights in each room, are all connected to the same switch with a pair of cables (line and neutral)
Is the wiring to the light accessible?
You would wire the sonoff by the lights and remove the wires that go to the switch and then wire these into the sonoff GPIOs.
So basically remove the switch from the mains circuit and provide the sonoff with permanent power.
Toggling the switch would then close or open the circuit on the GPIOs which can be set to toggle the relay.
1 Like
Yes, the wiring to the light is accessible.
Dont laugh at this, but this is the only thing I can draw to help. 
As you can see the “live” cable is going to the electrical board (or whatever this is called) That is the reason for the only two cables on the switch. I dont see how I can have an alternative switch on the wall to turn on or off the light, on demand.
Edit: I may got this wrong, and I am currently not at home. I will confirm this “sketch” once I return home.
Ah I understand, just never saw them before and assumed too much from the picture. Wasn’t meant as an offense, I friend of mine had some GU 10 bulbs like in the picture and he called an electrician to change them 
, so I just wanted to eliminate this possibility.
Are you by any chance living in the UK?
If yes, I think this thread is for you:
I think Shelly 1 could be an option for you, but I don’t have a lot of knowledge about electrical wiring etc. to be honest.
1 Like
None taken. I am not easily offended.
I am an IT in an office full of people that have no idea how to use a computer. They call me to press the button to turn on the monitor. Talk to me about possibility elimination.
I live in Greece.
I took a look at shelly and it looks like it is the same as the sonoff touch. It requires 3 wires to make a connection. Line in, Neutral and Line out. I am missing one…
Anyway, I am back home with photos this time. More in the next post.
Ok, here we go:
The light is this
and its wires:
The switch is this simple Legrand switch:
And behind the switch, this is the wiring:
Now things are getting complicated here. Forget my previous, silly sketch I made.
I forgot that this room has another wall switch on the other side of the room. I believe this is called “commutateur switch” where 2 switches are turning on and off the same light. I dont mind removing the second switch if necessary, as it is not needed.
I have no idea where the red cables are going! There wasnt supposed to be a second cable, because in another room where there is only a single switch, there is only one red cable. The red cable is “live” and the black one is “neutral”.
Do you think I should try the sonoff touch I have spare here?
It only requires 2 cables. Did you take a look at the thread I posted, as far as I understand it’s the the same setup as you have, only line and neutral, no ground.
1 Like
Ok, it looks like Shelly could do it! Sonoff is out of the question, since it requires extra wiring to use it with the switches.
This picture is maybe what I should do.
But since I am not an expert, I will consult an electrician in my area and see what he thinks. I think it can work!
Thank you for the suggestions!
You’re welcome.
Yes, I think it’s best to check with an electrician first. I hope it will work 
1 Like
Are you never moving? Maybe the EU is different but non standard wiring would really hurt resale around here. I’m in IT and I wouldn’t even consider some crazy smarthome wiring where the owner was too cheap to just get quality zwave switches and hacked cheap eep8266s in every room.
The physical switch requirement is a great one, imagine a fire in your server closet and your entire house stops working. Or even just the headache if you upgrade your network.
1 Like
No, I never move. I own the house, and there are no plans on moving… Ever.
What I already have is the standard wiring, I am only looking to add the smart device, whatever that is, to control the lights via HA and the physical switch. So, what is your suggestion? Zwave? Never used them before, only heard about them. Can you explain, please?
Ehhhm what about just removing the ESPs when you leave the house? He said he won’t change the wiring, he’ll just put in some shellys or sonoffs.
1 Like
The black wire looks like a neutral, unless it is related to the other switch in the room?
DO a search on aliexpress for “smart switch no neutral”.
1 Like
Yes, the black is neutral. There are two blacks on the switch because it is bridged to the bottom switch. They are sharing the neutral.
But it looks like there are two “line ins”.
The first red cable is always powered (checked with a testing screwdriver) so I am guessing it is coming straight from the electrical board.
The other is powered only when I press the other switch (the one on the other side of the room).
So, I think these are two live cables.
So the wiring looks to be like this: Neutral, Line in, Line in. No line out. Am I correct?
Well usually the red one is switched - live red-in from the switchbox is switched to the red-out, which goes to the bulb.
Two way switches (ie two switches controlling the same light, called three way in USA for some inexpicable reason) have extra wiring.
In short, if you have a neutral then almost any smart switch will work, including the sonoff T1
1 Like
ummm, N stands for neutral.
1 Like
I know, but in the drawing the N is connected to live. Never checked out the Shelly SL, maybe I have to.