I am upgrading my ESP32 powered ‘tank managers’ to a higher capacity valves and flow meters. The new valves are much heavier duty stepping up another half inch. As a result the solenoids go up from 12V to 24VAC. My Gravity: Digital Relay Modules handle up to 35V according to the specifications. The previous 1" valves were normally open. The new valve and solenoid are NC.
I was hoping someone could cast their eye over my YAML and wiring to see if i’ve missed something. I don’t want to toast my setup.
switch:
- platform: gpio
pin: GPIO21
# wire on N/C
inverted: false
restore_mode: RESTORE_DEFAULT_OFF
name: "tank valve on off"
You haven’t given us any valve model numbers to check the specifications.
What current do the valves draw? If less than 10amps then you should probably be right from a relay capacity aspect as the picture of the relay looks to be rated for 250vac and 10a. You havent said it is a DFRobot unit, which has a Rating Load: 10A@35VAC. The PCB wiring and connector may be a limitation, hence the lower DFRobot’s specifications. Most irrigation style valves draw very little current, and 24V AC is the international standard. Check whether you need AC or DC supply - you didn’t say which was being used for your old valves, but the DFRobot unit is dry contact so can switch either.
If the only change is relay NO to NC, your yaml code may not need change if you move the wire to the respective relay output, however there may be timing changes for the valve to move to the new state. Alternatively you may be just able to change the inverted clause to true in your yaml code.
I don’t have detailed specifications for the solenoid switch, i have asked the supplier for more. My power supply is only 1 AMP, its seems to be coping fine. There wasn’t as you suggest much current drawn when testing on my bench. 0.751.
I have it all working ‘as expected’ from an ESPHome perspective, however, and this is a big however, the solenoids are getting very very warm. too hot to touch.
They have 2W-NC 24VAC printed on the side, nothing more.
You havent mentioned much about your power supply, or how you are switching it to the solenoids. Maybe you are driving them with DC rather than AC? Is the units of measurement of the value “0.751” volts or amps (series or parallel for the solenoid wires)?
Even a model number and manufacturer for the solenoids and power supply may help.
2W-NC 24VAC would indicate a current draw of around 0.16amps (using Ohms law) would open the valve, far less than what could cause any warming of the valve. Is this what you want? Some rely on external water pressure to do the heavy lifting for them to slam the valve fully closed or open. Does that exist?
What is your end use?
I think you are correct. it’s almost certainly the power supplies. i’ll swap them out for some better quality ones with specifications in a language i understand. probably 2A.
the valves are for domestic water tanks. the pressure is driven by in-tank pumps that sense the pressure extremely quickly. I only need this size because the outlets are 32mm. the valves are overkill, bit i need that diameter.
Depending on how many solenoids you are supplying at one time, any generic irrigation 24AC transformer should do the job, most rated for 0.6amp or greater. Just add the maximum current drawn for all the solenoids you may ever have switched on at the same time and make sure you have at least that.
Please note that NC (normally closed) solenoids will draw power at switch on of your system, so be aware they may all be temporarily on while your automation is starting up and then it is switching them off, so drawing worst case current for a short(ish) period.
The assumption is that the ‘NC’ may stand for Normally Closed. It may be wrong and indicate something else entirely. Using NC valves is unconventional in irrigation systems, and posting the model number and manufacturer should quickly clear that up before you go buying unnecessary power supplies, as often solenoids will tolerate DC as well as AC.
What is triggering the solenoid changeover? Pressure sensing or pump motor control? You may need to refactor your code.
Not sure of your wiring.
Are you using a HACS or HomeAssistant integration, or a roll-your-own solution? Are there any allowances for timing for pump startup or solenoid changeover?
At this stage: a whole lotta insufficient information!
The previous 1" valves were in fact N/O. These are N/C. Power consumption is not my concern, i have surplus. The primary requirement is managing two large under ground water tanks fed from rain catchment. I have HA managing automations based on flow sensors and pressure sensors data. That bit was easy. Valve spec sheet attached.
Please share the model number and manufacturer for your old valves so we can compare consumption figures too.
What are the specs on your old valves? Pressure ratings?
Are you sure they needed constant current to keep them closed on the old ones? This is unusual for solenoid operated valves you say you previously used to be in normally open mode.
The solenoid can often be manually rotated to move it to on of off position for setting up purposes when doing plumbing. I see this solenoid has an override switch also. Are you sure both are in the normal position? This may be the simple cure to your problem.
Solenoid coils often are very similar. Check if the old and new are similar and can be simply swapped over.
Your best option may be to return your new valves for ones that have the same coil option and functionality as your previous valves. Extra $7 and it should all work like before. Until there is more information, all the above is just guessing.
