Hello all.
To start with I have not found similar topic and I still do not know if its because it is so obvious for most people or it is other way around. For an enthuisiast like me it took about 4 afternoons to get it done so I gues somebody can save that time.
Begining of this story is where my wife said “this switch” or our shutter will not be smart. Plus I did not paid enough attention to what it really order and ended up with unflashable WR3 (i think similar way will fit for WR2 WR4) board which in fact is probably RTL8710BN.
Im more of mechanic and for me " if it fits, it sits ". Dimesions of WR3 are the same as ESP-12F and pinout is also similar.
My switch
Zemismart WiFi Tuya Curtain Switch
Board marked YC-WN-L03C-A-V1.3. 3 gang switch on same board pinout fits: - except i had to switch buttons 2 and 3.
Sorry I do not know how to place table on this forum but there is the same thing on google drive.
Source: https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp8266-pinout-reference-gpios/
Source: https://docs.tuya.com/en/iot/device-development/module/wifi-module/wifiwr3module?id=K9605tq3hlsfz
Conflicts marked by red font. For basic users you should only read last column (this table looks like mess).
I Did not have chance (skills and assets) to measure the boot moment itself so I am assuming boot states is equal running state.
Of course You have to separate two pads that You will be pulling up/down. I did this by cleaning up pads and sticking capton tape on them.
Probably you will have very little space to place down resistors so my placement of these may not fit to your situation.
Still best solution feel free to correct me.
Hope it will help somebody.