Here’s a teardown of the AU/NZ Ikea Grillplats Matter over Thread smart plug.
I was not able to remove the PCB further without the use of a soldering iron. The input connector plug is moulded into the plastic and soldered to the PCB.
OPENING A MAINS 240V DEVICE IS DANGEROUS. OPEN AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Inside is two 16A 250VAC relays: Golden GI-1A-5DMF
Thread radio module: LEEDARSON LX07
I really like that IKEA have a switch mode power supply inside, as evident by a mini transformer, capacitors and likely switching mosfets on the back.
I would hope this outlasts the cheap Arlec smart plugs using capacitive dropper power supply inside for the radio module.
Most heat can be seen from the transformer inside, whether 53°C causes premature failure is unknown.
Plastic shutters on the output plug is a nice touch. Two-pin plugs can still be inserted.
Could you bypass the relay and use this for energy only monitoring?
Possibly…? Steady hand for soldering needed.
I have not attempted this. Do at your own risk.
You will need to remove the PCB and asses where the current monitoring is wired in series to the output.
That’s cool to see the inside of ones from other places.
When I looked at the photos, even before reading the text - the flyback in the power supply caught my eye. Do you know if that’s due to the electrical codes you fall under, or simply because of the 230/50 line as opposed to the 120/60 line here? Also, it’s interesting that both sides of the line are switched, I assume that’s also code?
I can’t tell if they’ve soldered earth somewhere or that’s just a clip.
Regardless, it looks like the PCB will push out easily enough with removal of the two corner screws.
…actually just thought about that a little more, you’re drawing more current because of the dual relay. Power supply differences probably has something to do with that.
Flyback/snubber diode…? I see diodes near the relays but not close by to the mini switch mode PSU.
There probably is one on the underside. These four solder pads appear to make up two spark gaps.
Live and neutral being switched is something I’m also not familiar with in code either… It seems older Arlec (common Bunnings brand) smart plugs were a single relay on Live connection. Then ~2023 the newer plugs were two relays.
But switches on power outlets (very common) are typically always switching Live.
Maybe this is related to current overload of relays and the internal contacts potentially wielding themselves together.
The PCB does not come out if the two screws are removed.
Input plug is soldered to the PCB and moulded into the plastic.
The Earth connection is soldered to the PCB, then PCB soldered to a female connector.
I was wanting to keep this intact and not to desolder the PCB for removal… but I am very tempted for a only current monitoring plug on a fridge.
