Lucky you. I’m guessing you don’t have a solar gateway, smart meter connection to your electric & gas utility, water utility, smart washer or dryer, smart oven, and so many others that are on my network that unfortunately just don’t have fully local equivalents. Out of my 569 devices in HA, only the 4 ESPHome and 73 Z-Wave are fully local, unfortunately. Most device categories simply don’t have any Zigbee / Z-Wave / ESPHome equivalents. I sincerely wish this wasn’t the case.
2.4GHz can be problematic for low power protocols like zigbee because they are just much weaker (usually only 1/10th TX power) then WiFi devices and therefore mostly loose the “battle”.
For classic 2.4GHz wifi - that never disappointed me the last decades till today. The espHome devices are over 100 and a total of maybe 150 2.4GHz WiFi devices with over 10 year old ($10) used WiFi AP’s that run openwrt. Rock solid. ![]()
If you use your devices stationary best would to priorize the nearest AP in the espHome config/yaml ![]()
It’s not the real Popcorn but only common group sync issues/delays. Just put “zwave group sync problems” or something like this in your favorite search engine. A zwave releared engineered once told that it comes down to a band-with limit and you just can not switching zwave groups in sync ![]()
My first mailbox notifier around a decade ago was based on an esp and a lora module. At that time espHome wasn’t even a thing ![]()
Today you need to fear that the manufacturer that you bought your device from will brick it in thefuture
Welcome to 2025 ![]()
I do, but it is actually still a gateway when it doesn’t phone home to the manufacturer? ![]()
No gas, no dryer and a stupid oven. The rest mentioned all powered by espHome ![]()
The washer for example just is attached to a espHome plug that does all the magic and knows in which cycle the machine is and when it’s finished beside obvious things like energy consumptions… ![]()
I think it is more a matter (not matter!) of priority. Is it more important for you to turn your oven on before you arrive home and sharing that action with unknown participants (which also accumulate data sets about you for targeting) or is it privacy that you are valuing more? ![]()
What I found out over the last years: The (most) stupid devices typically the ones that are easiest to smartify. Mostly a esphome plug with some local logic is everything needed to make typicall apliances smart ![]()
I would say yes, local gateway. This is the way my Envoy operated. Before Enphase forcibly updated them to require cloud login, with no way to rollback. Sigh.
Yes, I was doing that too before switching washer & dryer. Actually left the energy monitoring smartplug (not an ESPHome) even though the washer was smart. So I was getting twice the completion notifications.
My new dryer is electric using a 240V outlet. There is no smartplug for it that can do the completion notification. I think you would need smart CTs around the breaker for it to accomplish the same thing without a smart dryer.
I used to have a gas dryer that was plug-in 120V, and the energy monitoring worked for that.
There was a leak in the gas line to that room 3 years ago, and I abandoned it. I replaced both W&D with new smart electric units.
I feel like I shouldn’t have to choose between the two. But oven manufacturers obviously feel differently.
That’s true for some plug-in appliances. I have done that with my dumb toaster, rice cooker, dishwasher, countertop oven, microwave oven. The energy monitoring doesn’t work well with my bread machine. It really needs to know the program, in particular the rest waiting times. Not exactly a stupid device, though.
I wish I could make my Kenmore 36" induction cooktop smart. All it’s got is touch controls. You really have to watch it when cooking rice in the pressure cooker on induction. It only takes 5 minutes from start to finish. But wait 30 seconds too long, and it will badly burn if you are not looking, and can’t hear the timer beep (I can’t) which doesn’t automatically end the cooking. I know it’s well beyond my abilities to install an ESP chip into that cooktop touch panel. Are you aware of a local option for smart induction cooktop ?
The smart GE wall oven is really nice, because you don’t just get to preheat it, but also set the cook time, and it will end. My Ninja countertop oven is dumb and can’t do that. And it’s a double oven too, so the energy monitoring smartplug doesn’t work even for notifications if you use both. But at least the touch controls on the front work, and you can set the cook time, not just a dumb timer.
Ultimately, I still prioritize the appliance quality way above the smart features. I choose the top or near-top rated models in Consumer Reports. Sometimes it’s a smart appliance - that GE wall oven - sometimes not - the Ninja. For the LG washer & dryer, they were top rated and smart. Consumer reports has never led me astray with appliances. The worst I can say is that the Panasonic “inverter” microwave I bought on their advice wasn’t an improvement over my old but rusty Sharp. I would have spent less if I knew that it was just marketing gimmick. Maybe on a model with a better display, since I can’t read the blue on black letters at all anymore due to macular degeneration. The GE smart oven has a really great display with white background, not black. Much more readable than anything I ever had.
V2 switches have been giving me trouble for a long time so this is an opportunity to replace them. Does anyone know how to delete a Wemo device from from HA. I can’t find the delete option beside deleting the whole Wemo integration which I’m not yet ready to do. Any insight would be appreciated.
I found a reddit thread where one has set it up such that there are no angry red lights:
https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/1lwk3x5/comment/n2qdib3/
Unfortunately that is the method for removal.
Did you try it?
The wemo integration uses pywemo, which is entirely local and does not rely on the Belkin cloud at all. After the Belkin shutdown, the wemo integration should continue to work without change.
As for the red blinking lights, the pywemo wiki has some information about it here.
Also, for those unaware, pywemo can connect your wemo device to your wifi/access point too! So even if you change your AP or reset the wemo device in the future, you can still re-connect it. The README has some information. There is also a META issue here in the pywemo issue tracker to try to track and document the various devices. That issue will be used to update the table in the README.
shellyplug
Hi, I tried to set up Wemo switches on Home Assistant using Pywemo. I mainly followed the steps on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfA2v05b6aM
I installed Python, OpenSSL, and PyWemo. I was able to find the Wemo device by connecting to its Wi-Fi network, and was able to toggle the switch. But the next step (setting up WiFi network) failed. Here are some details:
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Firstly, my Wemo device cannot support WPA2/WPA3 TKIPAES, so I had to set up a secondary Wi-Fi SSID that uses WPA2.
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During the WiFi network setup step (device[0].setup… ), the wemo device’s own WiFi network will disappear, then the computer automatically connected to my home WiFi network, so the setup couldn’t complete successfully. Despite this, it seems that some WiFi setup was configured, even though there are error messages and exceptions. But Home Assistant still cannot find this device.
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Then I noticed that the Wemo device automatically gets an 192.168.26.x IP address even after factory reset, and also made the secondary WiFi network in the same subnet. But my main WiFi is on 192.168.0.x subnet, including my Home Assistant server (a Raspberry Pi). So they cannot communicate with each other. Ping doesn’t work. I couldn’t find a way to change/force it to 192.168.0.x subnet. And I cannot change my HA server to 192.168.26.x subnet since it’s physically connected to the LAN port.
Is there any way to make my HA server communicate with the Wemo device? I prefer not to downgrade my main SSID’s security level to WPA2.
Thank you very much!