So i’ve been using smart plugs to control low loads for years, my kids night light (1 watt) my work desk and lamp (55-75w) and LED christmas lights.
Now they are all relay based ones as you can hear and feel the click when they switch. I had some very cheap ones that died after a year, but as they had proved their worth i bought some local bytes wifi and some sonoff zigbee plugs.
However the ones i used daily like the night lights and work desk seem to “stick on” and require a tap on the side sometime to swtich the load. Now 55-75w if laptop, gu10 led and monitor aren’t high draw, but i’d expect the plugs to last longer then 4 years…
Is this someone everyone has ?
And can i solve it with Triac plugs ? (which seem to be sold as dimmable plugs)
I have 3 sonoff s26 plugs and 3 tplink hs plugs that have been in daily use for 8 years, not had any fail in that time. I also have another 3 sonoff plugs of the same vintage that come out every december for Xmas, and last year they just worked as well.
I also have some no name zigbee plugs that have been in use for many years as well, not quite 8 but possible 5 years without issue.
This is probably of no great help but does prove in daily use the plugs do cope.
I have four Sonoff S60 plugs which seem reliable. None have failed.
I also have some Localbytes plugs. One of these ‘exploded’ around 12 months ago. It was around two years old then, just switching a 5V, 1A wallwart. I contacted them and It seems they maybe had a batch problem at some time. They supplied a free replacement. The others have been fine.
Beware of using triac types to switch things that have a regular transformer in their power supply. Some won’t work. Check the spec, before buying.
“Sticky relays” are often a symptom of an inductive load causing arcing of the relay contact surfaces. Of course, low-quality relays also fail regardless of the load type.
I’m an Engineer, so have replaced many relays in timers, controllers, and now HA kit. The parts are a bit like “industrial Lego” and these days are regularly clones of original Omron designs. Of course, if you don’t have the knowledge to test and replace mains voltage parts, DON’T!
Computer devices are more often capacitive rather than inductive loads, but high-inrush current at switch ON can also weld contacts closed.
Triac and Diac-based switching might escape mechanical contact welding, but can still fail if the output isn’t suppressed and filtered (e.g. a snubber or Zobell network). A great way to blow up a SCR/SSR is to try and dim an inductive load (motor) when the device is only rated for resistive (old incandescent bulb).
Regardless of the design, the given current rating is often for simple resistive, so for capacitive and inductive, need to be de-rated by quite a margin.
Basically, what seems like a low current load actually may act as something much more damaging so over-specify the switching.
Some UK 240V kit is actually “harmonised” EU 220-230V which is partially why many switches are rated at 10A not 13A (and most UK sockets aren’t rated for 13A continuous load, but that’s another story…).
I’ve used kit like the Sonoff TH16 and Shelly SW40 for higher current loads and not had a failure (yet!). If this helps, this post!
I think you can solve it with higher quality plugs. Triac or not.
Cheap relays use cheap contacts and eventually fail quicly.
I have few relays outside, running happily after 7 years in ambient out of their specs.
this post!