I think I can use the Shelly i4 Gen3 that has 16 built-in functions to do what I need, diagram attached. Does anyone have code that does this, or something similar?
The 4 separate dry buttons control 4 separate LED light groups in HA so with only 1 button per group, I need each button to do both Up & Down Dimming
With esphome you can use Shelly or $2 esp32 dev board to detect different type of button presses for automations. They donât directly dim anything though.
What do you mean âdirectlyâ?
The function will be when a button is held (long-press) the light in HA continually dims or brightens (increases or decreases the Bright / Dim level).
Using an esp32-c3 super mini would be fine with me, wish someone sold a model with green screw wire terminals soldered on. AITRIP sells a set of 2x ESP32-C3 MINI with Development Boards. Not ideal but workable.
but, Dim control is a must.
do you know if the Shelly can be flashed OTA? I read something about a web site UI method?
This is second topic, Iâm telling that the button input device doesnât dim anything. It just detects different kind of button presses. Short/long/multi⌠Dim control is related to the dimmer itself, which you have not described.
I think I understand⌠the code in this post looks like it âcreatesâ a dim from a long-hold? My actual physical device is an HA Light Group containing multiple Gledopto GL-C-008P Zigbee LED controllers
That should work
How about using rotary encoders? You could just connect like 4 ky-040 to an esp32 and use a blank switch plate.
I only used one though for my lights
Nice job, I may do that. This rotary encoder with an LED indicator built-in looks cool. I have the 4-button Legrand wall switch installed so for now Iâll use that but will look for rotary switch with LED. I use, and very much like, Moes zigbee Smart Knobs for some lights.
I donât know if went ahead with this or not, but the Shelly i4 Gen4 is for momentary buttons/switches at line voltage, AKA 120-240Vac whereas the Legrand momentary buttons you have pictured (LVSW-100 series like the LVSW-108-W) are for low voltage DC like 24Vdc.
Will it work? Maybe, but I donât know what the risks are here passing line voltage AC through it instead. Probably fine so long as you donât try and wire the LED portion in.
If youâre sticking to Shelly, you ned the i4 DC instead:
I wrote a Blueprint for it since there was nothing like it already posted
i4 input voltage does not matter for the dry contacts themselves (like with the Legrand LVSW devices). The voltage only powers the Shelly device. I have both the i4 Gen3 (110v AC) and i4 DC (24vdc), they are identical in function.
âDry Contactsâ means there is no voltage flowing through it. The power going to the LVSW does not ever flow through the buttons.
It took a lot of digging but I did finally find Shellyâs own specs. And yes, they may be incorrectly stating this on ALL their sites and materialsâŚ
4 Digital Inputs (contact closures or switches)
The thread you posted says, deeper down, that its running 3.3v across the SW legs. Another doc I found about the Shelly UNI plus, which has two âdigital inputsâ says⌠âBoth digital inputs of deliver a voltage of about 3 V DC to detect a contact closure between IN-x and GNDâ
I use a i4 DC in the config of the diagram I show above. When I get a chance in a few days Iâll run a multi on it to see if its passing the full 24vdc Iâm feeding it. Then Iâll report back.
If this is really passing 3.3vdc then it can be considered âdigitalâ, and eve considered âdryâ (for all intents and purposes) since it is not passing the input voltage through the SW inputs.
Thereâs nothing incorrect here. They are digital inputs, not analog.
It doesnât have to be so complicated, you see from the wiring diagram that L goes to the switch. If you measure 3VDC in the circuit, itâs completely irrelevant if one of the poles is bonded to L.