I will ALWAYS pick a USB stick over a GPIO header device when dealing with a PI if possible.
Pi are hotbeds of radio interference, many of us recommend putting your Zwave and Zigbee (and probably Thread when it comes) radios on short USB extensions or USB2 hubs to get them away from the sources of USB3 radio interference (Wifi in the Pi also is noisy for Zigbee).
I mean I know the folks working on the Yellow probably thought about that and did things to intervene… but with all the problems I’ve had with ANY coordinator stick plugged DIRECTLY into a PI and how it’s easily solved with a short extension - I’m getting these things outside the case - that means no GPIO. USB form factor every time.
Also, it’s more versatile. You can plug into a Windows PC, a machine hosting a hypervisor, a NUC. You’re not limited to devices with GPIO headers.
Ok, I was just wondering is it safer to have usb stick which you can always update on Win pc. Hopefully somebody could try the firmware update on Yellow and share the results
I am using a Compute module with wifi/Bluetooth; I have found something that suggests that the Bluetooth needs to be turned off for the Z-Pi 7 to work, but I haven’t figured out how to do this, if it’s possible.
I edited config.txt to disable Bluetooth on my HA Yellow PoE. In my case, I simply removed my NVME drive and installed it in a USB enclosure. This allows the drive to be easily mounted on my MS Windows PC, where it was very easy to edit config.txt.
HAOS does not provide a simple method to edit config.txt.
If you loaded HAOS on the CM4’s eMMC storage, it might be simplest to boot the system via its USB-C port (after moving the jumpers on the board appropriately), using ‘rpiboot’ on another Windows or Linux system. There is a way to then mount the eMMC drive on Windows/Linux and should allow you to edit config.txt.
I was able to add a Zooz 800 series Z-wave radio fairly easily once I disabled HAOS from using the CM4’s Bluetooth radio. I was able to pair an old GE Z-Wave switch very easily using Z-WaveJS. It worked fine for some simple testing. However, I use Lutron Caseta these days.
Neat. Cheap compared to the Aeotec, does it plug directly into the mini GPIO like the Z-Pi 7? I wonder how they compare.
I also use Lutron too, I’ve finally gotten around to installing some of the new Diva dimmers I got a while ago (for some, I was waiting for the new accessory switch for 3-way installations which just came out recently).
Not really sure why your Z-Pi can’t pair, according to you screenshot it’s setup correctly. I’m also using a CM4 that got Bluetooth and WiFi. Haven’t turned it off, but also not using it. Have you connect it with an ethernet cable and do you’ve got a PoE version?
Thanks for the response. I do have the PoE version, although im powering it through an adapter instead of PoE at this time. I’m going to put this aside for now, most of my Zigbee and all Z-wave devices are connected to a Hubitat which is working. My goal will be to move everything to the Yellow when I can, I only have a few Z-Wave devices so it’s not as big a priority. I may order the Zooz adapter that Ogiewan mentioned, it’s fairly cheap.
There’s no guide that I’m aware of, but if I remember correctly it’s pretty straight forward. Connecting the Z-Pi 7 on the GPIO pins can only be done one way in the enclosure. When adding the Z-Wave JS integration (on Home Assistant OS) it helps you to install the add-on. After that it should recognise your Z-Pi 7 as Z-Wave controller in the configuration dialog.