The doorbell is just that, a doorbell with video, the lock is a separate device function in every setup.
yeah, I know, as I stated beforre I have a full video/audio dumb doorbell, wich starts to fail.
the idea is to replace it, in my case, the doorbell sends signal to the lock and unlocks it, doesn´t the smart ones do that?
imo its better to keep it separate for security but there are options like these ones
I"m not sure how well Eufy works with HA as other options I see are full door handles with a build in camera that cost upwards of $1k like this one:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Philips-EasyKey-Capture-Doorbell-Australia/dp/B0D3GB9CH2
In gen the options suggested here previous are higher guarantee to work with HA when asking for advice.
It is amazing, so the device is smart, but it is unable to send a little current impulse to open a dumb lock. 
I think they should make more useful devices, my opinion.
Nonetheless I still be studying this and how to take it out of the planing desk to the “street”, though I see it as a “hacker” way of doing things.
Well, I am back, i just realised that maybe the smart relay thing will be doable.
Let me explain
My dumb system consist on a internal device, wich is a screen with various buttons and a telephone.
Obviously I open the door from within this device, so this woke up an idea, would it be possivle to taka advantage of the old wiring and installing the smart relay indoor, make it open the lock the way you said before?
This is how it is wired
And this is the manual
Do you think i can test the opener with a spare sonoff r4 mini I have myself?
By the way, the syatem is poweres by this
do you think I can bypass the current wiring and connect directly the r4 mini to the lock to test it?
For intercoms already installed you can look at these:
I need to replace the current one cause is starting to act behaviour, i think it has come to an end.
The solution you gave, POE doorbell, tag scanner and so, starts sounding more interesting as I see that, as said, maybe old wiring will do the job eassier.
For example the smart relay to open the lock maybe, let’s wait for answers, will be solved soon.
In the meantime I keep reading about the topic.
So a Shelly 1 would be a good choice, I have found this
Will it do the job?
Yes, but if you don’t need ZigBee or Matter then I suggest you get the gen 3 version which is WiFi only.
You don’t say what voltage is available near your indoor unit, but the Shelly 1 handles both AC & DC voltages. Still, check & compare against the Shelly 1 specs
Be careful of voltage drop if you’re passing 12v DC over a long distance on thin wires. It shouldn’t be an issue for you since you’re already doing this, but it’s something to keep in mind just in case
Hi @ShadowFist , the voltage available on the indoor device is provided by the power suply I posted a pic above
Dont understand much why the device says output 12v and 18v there are some symbols I don’t get.
And about the wiring, well, there are ±15 m from outdoor to indoor devices, and if you check the photos, the wiring It is not the thinenest I have seen.
And by the way, I was looking at zigbee shelly because I like not to congest the wifi, but this is not an important point, It could be wifi.
Unfortunately, none of those voltages are suitable for the power in on the Shelly 1. That transformer outputs 18v DC (Shelly1 supports inputs of 12v DC or 12-24v DC) or 12v AC (Shelly1 supports inputs of 240v AC).
You can still open the door using that transformer on the Shelly1 outputs, but you’ll need to find another way of powering the Shelly inputs.
You also seem to have marked your own post as a Solution, despite not actually solving anything and not having any actual solutions in the “solved” post.
I suggest you call in an electrician who knows the difference between AC & DC and who can use a multimeter to tell you whether you will have issues with voltage drop.
What do you mean by that? Because taking 230V AC to the shelly won’t be difficult.
- Use the 230v for the shelly inputs
- Use the transformer to control the Shelly outputs
- Call an electrician and give him the Shelly1 wiring diagram for dry-contact mode.
Well thanks for your help.
I think i can handle the installation with proper instructions, a basic wiring diagram Will do the job for me, can you help with that?
I like the DIY topic and so far all the systems IS setup by me, and obviously the priceless info I extract from forums and the web in general.
As I understand from your explanation,
- Will be energyzing the shelly with 230volts AC , wich in the first place, Will made the shelly at least, startup.
After that,
- I need to set It up vía the app in dry contact mode, wich I think Will be easy, and set the jumpers to adjust to the 18 V DC.
I am recalling that I have some sonoff mini r4 somewhere, maybe I can use It as I’ll have to use AC energy, isn’t It?
And then
- Something like this?
No. PLEASE call an electrician (ideally one with some basic experience in smart home stuff).
You’re mixing mains voltage with a low voltage in a single device, and nothing you have posted so far remotely implies you have any basic knowledge of electricity.
I’d rather you think I’m an asshole who is out to make you waste money than for you to injure yourself/others, or worse.
Hahahahhahahahahahaha
Ok, thank you. I give Up.
Do you think there will be any smart relay wich works with 12v AC input?
Or anyother way around to solve this?
2 electricians and none knows/whats to do the job, i am trying a thirs one