This is the link:
Did you use an O-ring?
Can measure precisely your device to see if the o-ring is in contact with its counterpart? depending on your pipe thread, you may need to add a milimeter to the 3d part.
This is the link:
Did you use an O-ring?
Can measure precisely your device to see if the o-ring is in contact with its counterpart? depending on your pipe thread, you may need to add a milimeter to the 3d part.
Hi,
Thanks.
Yes, i need to remove it from the pipe… but i probably need to replace them… when i made the opening in the pipe i mess with the interior borders… I used a 20cm hole saw to open the hole,… so probably the o-ring is not making the correct selling, i had assumed that the printed parts would stop the water… I’m learning in the process
Hello,
I have also decided to buy a Ph-W218 based on these posts.
Unfortunately I have a problem with the integration, I can no longer get the local key via the dev. platform and the Tuya app only shows the temperature.
The problem is also known.
https://github.com/home-assistant/core/issues/94318
Can anyone help me?
There is a python script called “tint tuya”. You can use it to easily get all required info. You don’t need tuya cloud anymore
Hello, I read that you installed this Tuya equipment in 2018. So quite significant amount of time in service !
Could you share your conclusions/recommendations about this approach/solution ? What’s the reliability and accuracy of these equipments ? Frequency of recalibrations ? Etc…
Many thanks,
hi, when i drill the pipe i damage the counterpart in the pipe thread, that’s why the o-ring doesn’t work…
i found a different solution adapting a male to male union reduction 1 to 3/4, i had to drill inside with a 20mm to fit the probes in the 3/4 part, then using a o-ring in the probes to fit them.
final result:
Also the device is reading better values for the ORP, 750mV, manually measuring the chlorine level it looks ok, and i didn’t calibrate it… i can’t understand why is working now…
Thanks again for the help.