Fully agreed with aceindy. I am just too lazy to do it although I have POW R2’ laying around here ever since 
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yes, i also have the HTS2 Sensor…but where do you put the sensor? Because mine is very far from the AC so it will take ages to really feel temp difference. Can you send a picture?
The HTS2 is basically just a USB cable for powering the RM4 mini (or pro) with an build-in temperature and humidity sensor:
I attached the Broadlink gear to one of the isolated refrigerant pipes to/from the Air Conditioner behind the indoor unit’s cover and as close as possible to the AC’s IR receiver using a suitable cable tie (as for Daikin AC units there is plenty of space between the electric module and the wall behind but note: The AC’s IR receiver possibly doesn’t get the IR signals of the RM4 mini if you tie it in there).
The RM4’s are getting power directly from the AC’s power inlet (through quality USB PS) where the power cable is routed in such a way that the temperature/humidity sensors are in or close to the air flow of the AC units. This way temperature changes are detected almost instantly.
Unfortunately I can not send you pictures at this time because I would have to remove one of the AC’s indoor unit covers for taking photos of how it looks like since from the outside the whole thing is completely invisible. I will post some pictures here the next time the HVAC technician comes for routine maintenance service where the covers are getting removed anyway for cleaning purposes of the evaporators.
Warning:
Electricity is dangerous and can cause personal injury or DEATH as well as other property loss or damage if not used or constructed properly. If you have any doubts what so ever about performing do-it-yourself electrical work, PLEASE do the smart thing and hire a QUALIFIED SPECIALIST to perform the work for you.
@k8gg
Update on the Ampere thing… I contacted with Inventor (my AC brand) and they told me, my model is far less than 16A, even at the beginning of the operation. The only way it will ask more than 16A is if something is really wrong with the compressor and even then the AC will fail itself…(something between these lines). They even told me they prefer 10A Safety Switch at the electrical panel, so it must work lower than even 10A. But thank you for pointing out. The technician said 16A is far far beyond than my AC power range…and he assured me that my Smart plug is totally fine with my AC. Although its good that you mentioned this issue, as bigger ACs maybe have problems…
@Tamsy
Thats a very nice idea, although i will not implement it for two reasons: 1) as i stated before my smart plug is OK to work with my AC, 2) i prefer to keep my sensor for room temperature instead of just AC on and off…but thank you anyways…
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That is my concern as well. So I don’t want to use power monitoring for the state of the AC. Still haven’t found another suitable solution. As the AC is a ducted type so door switches won’t work.
Any suggestions will be very much appreciated!
Try googling, or even just search here in this forum, with the key phrase “CT clamp”. There are devices out there for sure that could monitor on/off of your air conditioner.
Thanks for your suggestion. I found the Sonoff POWCT. Seems suitable for this. I wonder if the clamp will work when I just put it over the power cord. It doesn’t have to be accurate regarding consumption, just register the AC state.
The power cord is coming directly from the wall and I don’t want to cut the isolation.