Buying a device to run Home Assistant (April 2022 edition)

11 Watts.

Electricity is 7 cents per kWh where I live and is hydro-electric (a tiny but growing fraction is from wind). Operating costs are negligible.

I also run a second instance of Home Assistant on an RPi3. FWIW, the old laptop is faster.

A UPS keeps all essential network equipment operational for about 2 hours. The laptop is shutdown a few minutes after the UPS kicks in (not much need for Home Assistant when all lights and gadgetry are unpowered) and turned back on when the UPS reverts to the mains.

I assume others will have the good sense to do their homework before deciding what to use in their home.

I would consider that to be negligible when compared to the annual operating cost of other household appliances. However, to each their own.

Indeed it does. When you add up the power consumption of every mains-powered smart device (switches, plugs, speakers, sensors, etc) it can easily exceed the few watts of the machine hosting Home Assistant.

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You are very lucky to have power as cheap as you do. I have been measuring the idle power consumption of every device in my home - over 100 of them. It really adds up quickly.

One of my primary uses for HomeAssistant is to control power consumption and automatically turn things off with smartplugs that measure wattage and turn devices off when warranted. For example, when my home theater receiver drops below 5 watts, HAOS can turn off the 4 subwoofers - 1 in each corner of the room - that each consume about 10 watts idle in so-called “auto” mode, or 40 watts for the se of 4. For this particular case I have HAOS also automatically turn the subs on, when the receiver’s power consumption gets over 50 watts, which means I manually turned it on with the remote.

In this case, there are 5 smartplugs involved that consume 0.6W in the off state, and 1.1W in the on state. The smartplug on the receiver is always on - the other 4 normally off. So, the 5 smartplugs involved consume 3.5W year round, which has to be deducted from the 40 watt savings. The net savings is 37.5W. That’s 328 kWh per year. And at 30 cents/kWh, $98/year purely wasted. The smartplugs have a fixed one-time cost of $15+tax each, also, or about $82. That means the smartplugs will pay back for themselves in less than a year.

This is just one of many automations I use to reduce unnecessary power consumption.

Unfortunately, 2 of the most energy-consuming plug-in appliances I have are built-in - my 48" Monogram side-by-side refrigerator, and a built-in Monogram wine cooler. I can’t easily access the plug to put an energy monitor smartplug on them. I can probably manage to pull out the wine cooler, but the 48" refrigerator is just a beast. There is no automation HAOS could perform with it, I’m not going to ever turn it off. However, with the monitoring smartplug, it could detect when there is increased power consumption, which can indicate something is wrong, for example with the thermostat, or door left ajar, or the vents at the top need to be cleaned.

As a matter of fact, my 13-year old, 20cu ft Energy Star rated Kenmore freezer had double the daily kWh consumption yesterday than it does usually - 3 kWh instead of 1.5 kWh. Something apparently went wrong with the door seal at 4am on Saturday. I discovered it at 10pm when I went to get some food from it. A lot of the food went bad, unfortunately. I wish HAOS could have sent me an alert earlier about the increased wattage. It is easy to see on the power curve after the fact - the freezer stopped cycling on and off. Having the freezer never go to 0W for an extended period is something I could have used an HAOS automation to detect, and which I’m going to program for all the appliances that cycle on and off. Strangely enough, the freezer started cycling again on Sunday afternoon around 3pm. I’m not putting any more pricey Haagen Dasz ice cream or Prime beef in that freezer, though, until I know what’s wrong with, and either repair or replace it.

Hey. You should use a different part of this forum to debug your installation issues, not this thread :slight_smile: .

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@madbrain76 This is of course entirely up to you and other users and sure, go for it if you like. But I encourage everyone to do this calculation by themselves, but I am still willing to bet that an average user of HA is better off with an old laptop for the reasons stated above. @123 has answered better than I would.

yes, and its not to be neglected if you take it seriously. Install Powercalc and you will be surprised, if not shocked to find out, how it all adds up…

I mean, even when all is off, my smart lights take over 14 watts just to be reachable and thats only counting the lights. not the switches, google homes, screens fans and shutters.

A Somfy Garagdoor alone takes over 7 watts in standby. Not measuring the smart plug which measures that :wink:

All in all, its certainly not to be neglected at all…

Hello,

We are aware of this issue, we have not been able to find the root of it, we have been testing before shipping these and making sure they work, I got a couple theories but I have not been able to confirm. I apologize about that. I know one solution that works almost all the time. Starting page 22 of this guide “Home Assistant ODROID-N2+.docx - Google Docs” you will be able to re-install Home Assistant, if you have any questions regarding this process, please let me know, I will try to clarify them.

Brandon

Well, the lowest consumption my house ever goes to when PV is off and I’m asleep (and that’s only about 30 - 90 minutes per day, as I’m a night owl) is about 1kW according to the Smartmeter. Still have lots of watts left to kill. A lot of that unfortunately is not from plug-in devices, but stuff hardwired on breakers that I can’t easily measure individually.

yeah, you’ve got some mileage ahead yet :wink: otoh, to each their own. I am of the type who turns down the Synology Nas during night hours, and save 7 hours of continuous 70 watts power 365 days a year… others dont because they feel it hurts the drives.
The garage door was an eyeopener in the same regard.

The balance between cost, reliability and comfort is personal… so glad HA allows us to bring those preferences to practice. And makes us aware of the consequences, if not in speech, it does so in illustrating:

check the top positions of the total device energy entities… not to be neglected at all :wink: The Patchboard is measuring all devices needed for the system to run like Pi’s/routers/hubs/modem etc…

I seek the above balance in my next device to run Home Assistant on…

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I run my HA in a virtualbox on a 2011 MBP. Works great.

Which sensor devices are you use ?

My TP-Link KP125 unfortunately have the “total consumption” sensor reset itself to 0 when the smartplug is unplugged. Not so smart.

I use several, but most of them are zwave switches, either connected to the Aeotec usb stick, or via a dedicated hub, which is publishing values over MQTT.

Also, some Shelly plugs. the Patchboard btw is a modbus, also connected to that dedicated hub/mqtt

hello, i bought a mini pc, however it comes with windows installed, do you recommend me to delete windows and leave home assistant as operating system or install home assistant on windows?

The windows is likely pirated anyway if it’s a Chinese PC. Delete it and use either HA OS or supervised with Debian

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Or Proxmox, with HAOS as one of the VM’s

Hello,

If your MiniPC is compatible with the HA OS, I would recommend to install that image.

32 posts were merged into an existing topic: Home Assistant Blue start/stop / connect putty

Sorry for my quite late question concerning your message.
What kind of operating system do you use on the T630?
Windows embedded?

I think it is Debian, or maybe Ubuntu, but to be honest I cannot remember.

For the ease of use, I would use now Home Assistant OS. You can install that easily. I did on a second unit, but I haven’t migrated my HA yet.

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PSA: If you run any remote Home Assistant instances and are technically inclined, I would recommend a Supervised installation (on Debian) instead of Home Assistant OS. That way, it will be a lot easier to remotely restore HA if something went wrong after a bad update (etc.). Because you have a full Linux OS that HA is running on top off, rather than having HA be the OS itself.

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I’m actually using a RPi 3b, maybe you actually have an older one. For me it’s working just fine and I have quite a number integrations and automations setup. I have a smaller home and maybe have less devices than many. It’s a good enough place to start so long as you have a plan to upgrade later. I’m sure I will outgrow the RPI 3b in time but for now it’s acceptable.

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