I do have this mistake in my diary.
Logger: homeassistant.components.cover
Source: components/cover/init.py:341
Integration: Volets (documentation, issues)
First occurred: 14:06:16 (1 occurrences)
Last logged: 14:06:16
CoverDevice is deprecated, modify EWeLinkCover to extend CoverEntity
Good day, has anyone tried the new zigbee bridge with this component.
In case anyone wants to create a door/window state card using rf sensors and the sonoff rf bridge, I just wrote a simple guide with the how-to.
Worked flawlessly with my new Sonoff Micro. Can I change the entity_id to something a bit more user friendly?
Yes you can. Check readme demo section.
Can someone here share YAML code that replicates the ‘‘Loop’’ function used in the eWeLink app? Use case is as follows:
We are subject to frequent loadshedding events, whereby our power utility cuts power to different areas at different times. When utility power resumes, I use a Sonoff Basic to delay switching current through to my refrigerator for a period (say 3 minutes after power has resumed). This is to allow the voltage/current to stabilize before it gets to the fridge motor.
In eWelink, this is achieved by setting the Basic to ‘‘Off’’ for the Power-on State, and then setting a Loop timer to ‘‘On’’ with the appropriate delay period.
Should be straightforward, I imagine script/s would be needed but I’m new to Home Assistant and have only managed to figure out very simple automations.
Supported RF sensors in latest release
I have this component running smoothly for my sonoff ifan devices, but I just installed a sonoff T4EU1C switch for the no-neutral bathroom switch that powers smart bulbs. I mistakenly thought that pushing the physical sonoff button switch would turn off the light but still keep power running to the bulbs, so that someone can turn off the bathroom lights with the switch but then the lights be turned back on without the switch with automations, but apparently that’s not the case. Is there a way to use this component so I can make the switch a detached switch that keeps continuous power to the bulbs but still controls them on/off via HA? Or is flashing tasmota my only option with this switch?
Your post make no sense to me.
So you want to push a button to turn off the lights, but not cut the power to the lights?
I don’t get it…
Smart bulbs 
They need to powered on all the time. E.g. Zigbee lights, zwave lights, …
Even when they are ‘off’, they still maintain the zigbee or zwave mesh.
I had a feeling that was it.
Probably doable if you just hook up the bulb differently, i.e. always feed with power. But that is probably not something I would advice.
The next person might believe the switch does what it should and it doesn’t… :-/
Sorry if I wasn’t being clear; but francisp is correct. It’s for smart bulbs. I want the smart bulbs to always have power. If someone pushes the switch, rather than cut power like a dumb light + dumb switch, I want the button push to instead send a message to HA, and then HA sends a message to the smart bulbs to “turn off” but they are really just switching to 0% brightness. The entire point of the smart switch is so it still operates like a dumb switch (controls the lighting) when other household members and visitors push the button, but without killing the power to the bulbs so that HA can still do fancy things. I thought this was a ridiculously common thing that smart home owners utilize in their homes, so I’m confused as to why you’d advise against having a bulb that’s always fed with power. I thought most smart bulbs were generally always fed with power.
I guess it depends on how you do it.
If you have reason to believe there is always power there then you generally switch of the main power.
But if you see a lightbulb that does not turn on when you flip the switch you don’t generally think the electricity is always on because it has a light switch.
But then again it shouldn’t be any danger replacing a light bulb anyways.
It’s all up to you. But I would label the socket with something like “always live” or something just to be sure…
Anyways. If the switch is is visible as a switch in HA then you can use the switch as a trigger in an automation.
Then change the wiring to splice the live past the switching part of the switch.
Meaning you have Live in and Live out.
That is what make sure it switches off, if you add a wire between Live in and Live out, that should keep the bulb always on and the switch “disabled”.
Will splicing the live past the switching part still work when the switch/wall doesn’t have a neutral? Currently the switch only has live in and live out; there’s also an anti-flicker module installed behind the light assembly tapping into both live and neutral.
Way off-topic, but I always switch the circuit breaker off before working on electricity, even to change a bulb.
It should.
My thoughts too…
Just thinking about how it should work normally, when the relay is closed there is live on both sides.
If everything works when the relay is closed then I see no reason for it to not work when it’s open.
But in all fairness, I have not tried.
I applaud you for that.
I do not have the patience for that.
So many things that is reset to zero.
But then again, I’m not worried that Sean will not remember that it’s always live.
But what if his wife or someone else wants to help out.
But then again it is safe, unless pitch dark and you try to find your way to the socket with your fingers…
This is fantastic, thank you! Working great with my S31 outlets.
What is the downside of setting a very low ‘scan-interval’? What exactly is happening each scan?
Hi @AlexxIT - firstly thanks for your hard work on this- my Sonoff temperature sensors are working perfectly. Looks like the new range of devices (SNZB-04 etc) don’t seem to be updating in HA yet though? I wish I was a coder to help, but I’ll happily send beer money if you can help 
I ordered it more than month ago. Don’t get it yet.
Send command for change network indicator. It’s force device for feedback state.