dimmer_datapoint: 2
Are you setting dimmer_datapoint to 2 in your ESPHome config?
I’ve tried setting it to 2 and 3. Neither work.
I’ve flashed about 9 of these dimmers so far with ESPHome and they all exhibit communication errors randomly. The dimmer will always update HA with the correct data but sending data will fail until I power cycle the switch or hold the button down to reset it. I believe the ESP8266 (the one we are flashing) is sending UART (serial) data too quickly and causing the UART RX controller to overflow (which we have no control over). I’m looking into the code now and I believe slowing down communication to the other chip (from the ESP8266) will resolve this issue.
EDIT: I opened up a bug here: Costco Feit Smart Dimmer Stops responding to Commands · Issue #1776 · esphome/issues (github.com)
Hey there @agr00m So did you use the latest stock tasmota binary, not ebb’s? If so, what “config” profile did you use on the dimmer? Thanks!!
So I used esptool to write ebb’s latest release from Sept, but after soldiering the chip back on, not seeing any wifi. Suggestions?
I have installed 15 such switches in my home and I’d like to move away from Feit’s cloud and control them locally. So, one way is to flash the dimmers with a new firmware, and there are many instructions to do that.
The question then is: What if I want to revert to the original firmware? Is that possible at all?
You asked the same question several posts ago and it was answered (yes).
Sorry, I must have missed it… this thread is very active.
Yes … and I’m not in my 20’s anymore and my memory is not that good … you’re going to crucify me because I asked the question twice?
peace
If your memory is failing you then I suggest you use the forum’s search function
For example, if one searches for “restore firmware” or “original firmware”, and limits the search to this topic, it will identify all the posts mentioning it:
My memory is NOT failing … I was being sarcastic (get my point!). From past experience, you ask the question few times and you get MORE people to answer … This is a hobby and there are 2000 different ways to do the same thing. If you have not learned that by now, you’re in for a big surprise. There is a lot going with these specific switches (I have my own thread advising others what to do about them - OpenHab) … so, before you assume people are lazy or whatever it is you’re thinking, be nice!.
Thank you for the Search ‘education’ though.
Enough said, let’s switch back to the main topic.
The problem with non-verbal communications is that sarcasm isn’t conveyed well. You stated you are no longer young and your memory is “not that good”.
The second half of your statement sounded like you had been offended:
… you’re going to crucify me because I asked the question twice?
It would have been a risk for a reader to assume you were being sarcastic.
I never assumed you were lazy. I assumed your statement was made in good faith and that you honestly forgot you had asked a question that was answered by at least two separate users. I tried to be helpful by describing how to limit search results to a specific topic.
Agree fully, tone and emotions cannot be expressed ‘correctly’ in writing. My apologies if I offended you. Yes, and that is why I said “Thank you for the search education” … I was genuinely appreciative (NOT sarcastic).
Hi there, finally was able to install @TheEebb 's latest binary… however “Tuya Tx Special” is not one of the module configurations as he mentioned in his post earlier. Anyone else have this issue? Suggestions?
Hello, for anyone that wants to convert these nice 3 way dimmers to Home Assistant, I will share with you exactly what I did to get them to work. I destroyed 3 of these units, so now you can learn from my mistakes!
OTA flashing has been disabled as mentioned above, so you will need to use a heat gun to remove the ESP daughter board. I highly recommend using a smaller heat gun for this propose or one with a nozzle so that you can have good control of your heat.
Also, protect the rest of the board with foil. I melted the pushbutton switches on two of these because I didn’t do this.
All I can say is go slowly and carefully when de-soldering, or you will rip the soldier pads off of the host board. Hold onto the esp chip with a pair of pliers and gently remove the board when you sense that the soldier has released.
I am using a pi to flash my devices. I followed this excellent guide to flashing by wire.
One thing I learned is that the +3V on the pi cannot drive these chips. I used the host dimmer’s power supply and tied the ground into the pi’s ground. It worked very well, but be careful around the mains voltage.
Here is the chip all connected up for flashing:
I read every response in this thread, and I’ve never used ESP home, so I decided to try the latest Tasmota bin, (9.1.0) it seems to work fine.
Once you have connected to Tasmota and configured for your LAN, go to module configuration, choose TuyaMCU(54)
This should allow you to turn the switch on and off from the web console. Add dimmer control by opening the console and typing
TuyaMCU 21,2
DimmerRange 10,1000
Read the first post in this thread to understand what this means, or watch this helpful video.
Configure MQTT and Home Assistant will see the device straight away. Device seems to be working properly so far!
I tried various ways of re-soldering the ESP board. After destroying my 3rd unit, I went the route of re-soldering by putting a dab of soldier on each of the front pads and using the heat gun again. you will need use a screwdriver or heat resistant tape to hold the chip precisely in place while pushing gently down on the board so that your soldier pads will flatten out and make a connection. This is harder than it sounds. In my case, the metal cover over the chip fell off from the heat, but it didn’t seem to hurt the chip.
Good luck my friends.
Interesting. I power my chips directly from Raspberry Pi (1 B). Works like a charm.
PS. you should invest in hot air gun. Those could be very cheap and you will have good enough heat control. I used that and had 0 failures (I did at least 10 dimmers, maybe more already). Oh! And Solder Flux! 400F and “massage” heat, focus on the GND pane first and make swings thru data pads going from left to right.
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Sorry for the late response, I’ve been pretty sick the past week; though, I’m glad to see that you were able to figure it out.
For anyone that doesn’t have a hot air gun, search ebay for “Hot Air Gun 8858”. You can get them for <$40, have temperature control and an assortment of nozzles. It’s an added cost, but will save you a LOT of headache, especially if you have more than 1-2.
So after getting mine working I realized this still doesn’t let you achieve a lower dimmer level, that appears to be programmed into the main MCU. I wonder if Feit would be willing to publish their source code. In addition to changing the low dimmer level, we could also take control of the LEDs. What I don’t think these companies realize is that the first one to open-source their product would probably see a HUGE influx of sales. Shit, they’d corner the HA/ESPH market.
I work in innovation for a major home improvement retailer. I would love to see this happen also.
Also, the 858D Soldering Rework Station is another good option for about the same price, and is what I actually used. However, a word of caution with these. First, the main power switch on the front switches AC neutral and not AC hot. And second, the unit is not earth grounded. I modded the one I have so that it fixes these issues, but not everyone may have that capability. However, for some reason the one I bought had a 3-wire cord that was connected to the chassis, but only came with a 2-prong plug. So this is easily fixed by just cutting off the plug and installing a replacement 3-prong. However, swapping out the hot/neutral may require some soldering.