When the 24VDC drops to 0VDC, you have that circuit’s 0VDC connected to the 0VDC of your ESP, which is powered by a different power source (unless you’ve changed that since I’ve mentioned this before). You can’t do this. This setup can’t work reliably.
ok, clear, can i use this as an simple solutiuon?
I think I’m missing something: Your ESP config shows that you have a binary sensor so you want to detect if the line drops – not control it. Are you now expecting to open the door instead using the ESP?
indeed, using a sensor for voltage, drop, no , i dont want to use D7 for controlling the door, that doesnt work indeed for controlling, i was just wondering, if i put those 2 wires together, that the door doesnt open … i dont understand why it doesnt work on the 3…0 side, and why it works before the resistors on 24v, just want to understand things
Because, on the Vin side you are shorting the circuit (directly connecting 24V to 0V) so you’re not using a feature: It’s probably the unit resetting. Again, you will probably damage your hardware with this kind of experimentation.
When you short (connect the two wires of) Vout, it’s connected to 0V, so R1 is taking all the load (a 24V drop across a 68k resistor) which shouldn’t affect anything. R1 is really just a tiny heater in that case.
ok, that makes sense
to make a bulletpoof i can order that relay right? a few posts back… then use the same voltage divider as i do now…In the details i see a DC+ and an IN
should i connect the 2 blue wires after the voltage divider to IN and DC- or to DC+ and DC-
Two module interface:
- DC+: Connect the power supply positive pole (voltage 3.3V).
- DC-: Connect the power negative pole.
- IN: Low level (3.3V) control relay pull in.
Then afterwards i can use NO and COM connect to D7 and gnd , rightN
Relay output terminal:
- NO: Relay normal open, the relay suspends before pulling in, and then short-connect with the COM.
- COM: Relay common interface
- NC: Relay normal close, short connected with COM before pulling inand suspended after pulling in.
To simplify if I powered 2 separate converters, linked below, from one 9vac power source would the ground from the 2 dc outputs be on the same ground plane?
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-2-5-35V-Regulator-Adjustable-Delinx/dp/B08B3T9DX4/ref=pd_ybh_a_3
You don’t need a voltage divider anymore but I’m quite sure you can’t use that board. It’s extremely hard to explain and talk about electronics in this way but I’ll try. You need to understand a little how a relay works. Look at this diagram, ignoring the specific values. The relay is just that little box represented by a coil/inductor and a switch. Note the dotted line – it means there’s no direct electrical connection (it could be a magnetic switch or an optocoupler, typically). The extra circuitry around it is some of the stuff you’ll find on these relay boards to make it plug and play.
You want to connect D7 to Vext, with the pull-up as per your original config, and the ground on that side to the ESP’s board. That’s it. Nothing else there to do. You don’t connect anything else of the ESP to anything else on the relay (or a relay board).
Note now that you need to connect the relay to some power source (left part of the diagram). In this case, the power source that directly powers the intercom/doorbell board (typically, some DC point that drives the microchips and other electronics inside after passing any transformers, regulators and other electronics). I can’t help you directly with that but whatever you do, you need to be sure that the ground and Vhigh you use as input is part of the same circuit. Look where the power runs that leads to those NC/NO/COM contacts. Lastly, you connect the NO or NC terminal to what’s the input labeled Arduino on the diagram.
At this point, to go further or to get a better understanding, I can suggest working through some SparkFun tutorials and examples. If I had the time I’d help you fully design this but unfortunately I don’t. To do this, I’d need to obtain the data sheets of each and every component. That’s unfortunately what’s required.
As an alternative, have you considered a doorbell/intercom system that would be easier to integrate into HA?
I can’t find a data sheet for those components but given my understanding of electronics I’d say no (I think I see a rectifier on there and the Amazon page mentions a regulator – LMxxx). It’s not a good idea to effectively have two of these components in parallel. The internal voltage regulators will probably work against each other and electronic components aren’t identical. Those variations can cause trouble. Rather get a single, bigger converter, or use two, but don’t connect them together (not even only the grounds).
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Hey @parautenbach , much appreciated… gonna buy me some extra stuff where i can play with it, and make a final solution… for now, as a temp solution, for D6 the doorpress with no voltage, i have increased the relay to 2 secs, so in my automation that runs, the D6 must me up for minimum 2 seconds
so when i get false postives from d7 to d6, they are now ignored anyway, i dont think i can break things with those low voltages / noise anyway on the esp side … and nothing should break on doorbell side either…
and yes, i thought about new doorbell with api, i firstly bought this one
verry expensive, especiall with the seperate indoor station too
But the quality was horrible, most of the times even no 2 way audio, the app was full of bugs, audio to low… all known issues it seems, so brought it back within 14 days, Pro was that it had an open api
now bought this :
https://netviewcctv.co.uk/video-intercom/ip-video-intercom/modular?amp=1&price=100-200&product_list_dir=desc&product_list_order=sku
its modulair, bought it with keypad and card reader, also on POE
its a closed system, but seems after subscribing as integarion partner, i was able to access ISAPI api calls … so i can already open a door wit REST command , so thats good…
still trying to intercept an event when door is opened, as well as a doorpress… But isapi is a poll technique, i dont like that anyway 
but hikvision was cheaper 