The context here was replacing an outlet or a light switch with a Zigbee version to create an invisible router (i.e. not have a dongle hanging off the wall).
I’m making progress. I’ve identified a location where I’ll have an outlet added. I have an extension cord run for the time being and I’m moving devices around. Will report back once that’s done.
Hence why I said in one of my replies about it if it can’t be popped out as I had a feeling they would have a design feature to use a tool or what not to give the access.
I’ve made significant progress here by doing the following:
Thinking in three dimensions. By raising the level of both the coordinator and the router I have reduced the amount of mass between them (countertops, etc) and signal strengths are much higher.
Found a location to place a router to bridge the dead spot. Ultimately I need a new outlet since none of my existing ones were well positioned.
All that remains now is to replace my aqara door sensors which refuse to connect to the sonoff router. Sigh.
I… I can’t even begin to comprehend an outlet I can’t access. I’m almost (not not entirely) positive those wouldn’t be allowed in my particular jurisdiction because exactly what you said, T… At the very least it would cause a significant conversation with the inspectors…
I have never seen them sold in local home renovation stores (eastern Canada) so best case is they’re speciality products or, worst case, don’t meet my province’s electrical code.
Either way, I won’t deny they look very sleek. However, in addition to their higher cost, their installation requirements in drywall, and especially in ceramic tile, are more labour intensive than simply making a rectangular hole. Those looks don’t come cheap or easy. Slapping on a wall-wart seems counterproductive.
These electrical outlets are for the truly aesthetic-obsessed (which I am).
I only have them in the areas of my apartment where an outlet must exist and cannot be hidden. All other outlets in the apartment have been moved behind furniture.
Perhaps you can put a Zigbee plug into an outlet hidden behind furniture … whatever is closest to the dead zone. Even if it’s not close, it’s better than nothing and inexpensive.
When it comes to Zigbee networking mesh it is almost always best to just have many “good” Zigbee Router devices than only a few “great” Zigbee Router devices, but still, having a few “known great” dedicated Zigbee Router devices placed in strategic location can be a very good idea, and that is something that I sometimes recommend to new Zigbee users that plan to start with a few devices before they add more, and if they do not get will not get enough coverage or range needed for their entire home.
Personally I can stongly recommend convert a few of ITead’s “Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus V2” (model “ZBDongle-E” based on Silicon Labs EFR32MG21) into dedicated Zigbee signal repeater / Zigbee range extenders by flashing them with Zigbee Router firmware and powering them with a simply USB-chargers. While maybe not the prettiest solution to look at, if you make sure they are permanently powered then joining/pairing three or more to your Zigbee network and spreading them around in your home will create an extremely stable backbone in your Zigbee network.
Action:Buy a few known good dedicated Zigbee Router products and place them strategically as Zigbee repeaters. Personally, I suggest buying and adding at least three such devices.
Tips
Examples of suitable producets: the “IKEA Tradfri Signal Repeater ” and “Aeotec Range Extender Zi ” are products that work very well out-of-the-box, while a more powerful alternative is to make yourself some semi-DIY variant by flashing the correct Zigbee Router firmware to Zigbee Coordinator USB dongles and then using them as stand-alone Zigbee Signal Repeater devices in USB-chargers for power, like, for example, either the Sonoff ZBDongle-E (EFR32MG21 based) or the Sonoff ZBDongle-P (CC2652P) work great as dedicated stand-alone Zigbee Signal Repeaters with recommended firmware.
Search community forums for more “Zigbee signal repeater” or “Zigbee range extender” Zigbee Router tips
Buy a few additional new Zigbee USB adapters to use after re-flashing them with Zigbee Router firmware
That is actually not entirely true. All types and models of Zigbee Router devices are definitely not created equal. How they perfom will depends on exactly what antenna type and design, Zigbee radio chip model used, Zigbee stack revision, Zigbee firmware version and configuration.
Most commercial mains-powered Zigbee Router devices will not have a radio chip or firmware configuration that offers the same performance as a DIY Zigbee Router made from a convertered Zigbee Coordinaor dongle with external antenna. Older chips also ussually have worse performace than newer chips.
Yes it is true that there are government regulations for the maximum transmit power-level for low-powered devices (around 14+ dBM in Europe and around 20+ dBM in North America), …but that does not mean that everyone configure their to use the maximum (fact is that most devices that ship use much lower transmit power than maximum allowed), nor that everyone follows the regulations.
Regardless of avove, relocating your Zigbee Coordinator dongle will be among the most important steps.
Begin by relocating your Zigbee Coordinator dongle by using a longer (shielded) USB extension cable and make sure connect it to a USB 2.0 port (and not a USB 3.0 port) or specifically use a USB 2.0 cable. EMI/RMI/EMF interference can easily kill signal reception for the Zigbee Coordinator, which is why it is so extremely important to keep it away from all possible sources of interference and make sure that the radio frequency range of your WiFi channel(s) do not overlap/conflict with the radio frequency range of your Zigbee channel. Again, that and more is covered here → Zigbee networks: how to guide for avoiding interference + optimize using Zigbee Router devices (repeaters/extenders) to get a stable mesh network with best possible range and coverage
Here’s a little before and after of the changes I’ve made. Everything will be green except the furthest door once I replace the aqara door sensors (which refuse to talk to the sonoff router).
FYI, Aqara’s Zigbee devices are infamous for not automatically moving to better/closer Zigbee Router devices on their own, it is well known within the community that you will need to manually re-pair/re-join Aqara devices after you add more Zigbee Router devices.
Most other Zigbee devices revealuate neiboring Zigbee Router devices and usually automatically move around once every 24-hours if there are any better/closer Zigbee devices available.
I’ve actually repaired the aqara sensors multiple times to the sonoff router and they just go straight back to the coordinator. Even though the router is much closer. I’ve already ordered some sonoff door sensors to replace them.
The topology I am going for is essentially a linear backbone based on sonoff routers with a SkyConnect coordinator. Assuming those devices are robust (which is perhaps a poor assumption) what is the value of adding more routers to get some meshing going?
Others have mentioned powered sockets, and the Ikea Tradfi smart bulbs (mine are gu10) work as relays okay. I’ve got three in my house and they’ve definitely boosted signal everywhere.