I tried to sort it out but with no luck.
Sadly there is no implementation for the āArctechā protocol so I would be very thankful if someone could help me understand what to do.
I recently decoded/emulated an IR remote for a room heater. The ESP remote receiver interpreted the commands as protocol 4 and something binary for each button, like ā11000101010ā. When I used these as an rc_switch transmission I had no success. So I used the raw values and now my transmitter works.
Iād prefer to use the protocol 4 values though. Any idea why I wouldnāt have had success in my attempts?
I just connected the pinout to an esp8266 and can read the inputs just like your tutorial (great btw). My data is identical (JVC, LG, NEC, Pioneer), and if I connect (i donāt have one) a transmitter I am pretty sure it will work but, I want to make a 3.5 jack cable that connects GND and IR in between the HDMI sw and the ESP but I am not pretty sure how to send the same messages through that line, do you think your tutorial code directly pasted will work? Thanks.
Please donāt try that direct connection without any further analysis and measuring. Reasons are:
You donāt know about the voltage levels used on the other side. If they are not 3.3 Volt you will damage your ESP and maybe the other side too.
There may also be a general DC voltage offset between both sides that may damage your components if connected directly.
To separate the sides electrically you could use an opto coupler which is basically an IR transmitter and receiver in one electronic component. But it needs additional circuitry to work correctly.
TL;DR: If you are not equipped to do further analysis with a voltmeter and oscilloscope you should buy an IR transmitter and be happy.
I only can assure the voltage is the same, 3.3 V and thought it could work, I just trying to figure out a smaller ESP box with all the components. Given I donāt have an oscilloscope (and donāt know what/how to measure) Iāll buy the transmitter and cutoff the receiver cable to the right length and put it in front of the receiver, a bulky diy octo lol. Thanks for you help.
Anyone had any luck with Daikin AC units? Following the guide in this thread I get either Aeha or Panasonic protocols from the AC remote, but it always sends 3 signals for each button. This is my dump of on/off
# on
[22:04:47][D][remote.panasonic:070]: Received Panasonic: address=0x885B, command=0xE400A308
[22:04:47][D][remote.panasonic:070]: Received Panasonic: address=0x885B, command=0xE40042B4
[22:04:47][D][remote.panasonic:070]: Received Panasonic: address=0x885B, command=0xE4000096
# off
[22:04:53][D][remote.panasonic:070]: Received Panasonic: address=0x885B, command=0xE400A308
[22:04:53][D][remote.panasonic:070]: Received Panasonic: address=0x885B, command=0xE40042B4
[22:04:53][D][remote.panasonic:070]: Received Panasonic: address=0x885B, command=0xE4000016
Hi! What pins did you use for this? I tried with one pin to ground and one to the signal pin (I chose 23 on my ESP32 devkit V1) on a similar emitter, and i mostly got this:
I tried to reverse the ground and signal leads, but that didnāt change anything. I am reluctant to connect it to 5V power in case that will burn up anything, at least until I know thatās the way to do it.
More details needed to help you. You talk about emitter but I guess you mean transceiver. What transceiver model are you using? Pins for D1 Mini (ESP8266) are given in the guide.
I didnāt ask you. If you look at the upper right corner of the post you will see that Iām asking Pidiot what pins he used. And no, I donāt mean emitter. I have been working with IR for 20 years, so I do know the difference. Pidiot is using a cheap IR emitter instead of the one youāre talking about. I have around 20 of those laying around.
No problem, itās easy to overlook. And actually many of the so called emitters are dual purpose, at least the ones have from when I worked with them. They can be used both ways, they have four leads in, with common ground. It depends on what part of the block I connect them to. They need 5V or 12V in to receive, but emitting will work without that extra power. If Iām not mistaken (I have not opened them) they have two IR diodes in there. Hereās a somewhat similar model, newer than those I have, with USB power supply:
Edit: Come to think of it, maybe it wonāt work that way with an ESP at all, and what I thought was as signal was just noiseā¦ Maybe I should try to get one of the receivers you have up at the top.
Turns out I have one, a VS1838B based device, Iāll try that tomorrow and see what happens.
Of course I couldnāt wait! Not really a problem at all, this. I have a Pioneer car audio player in a marine box in my boat, the Mad Max, and I want to be able to control power and volume from Hass. Turns out that setting the dump to Pioneer worked perfectly, since itās a Pioneer device that shouldnāt suprised me. This is volume up, volume down and source/power. A bit annoying that the thing doesnāt have discreet power codes.
21:28:01][D][remote.pioneer:149]: Received Pioneer: rc_code_X=0xB50A
[21:28:03][D][remote.pioneer:149]: Received Pioneer: rc_code_X=0xB50B
[21:28:09][D][remote.pioneer:149]: Received Pioneer: rc_code_X=0xB51A
Totally consistent, same code every time. So next step will be to try the emitting part. Iāll probably program another ESP for that to have in the boat, so I can use this one in the house in case I need to put in more buttons. Thanks for the guide, and flag me a happy camper!
@pidiot I would still like to know what pins you use for that emitter of yours, I found some two wire emitters here too, so I can probably use the same! Taking a chance on GPIO22 and ground first, weāll see if anything friesā¦
Edit: Nothing fried, it didnāt even smell funny. Almost boring how little drama there was on this! So GPIO22 and ground for plus and ground on the emitter, and I was able to send a code that the IR receiver interpreted as the Pioneer code I was trying to send. I have to go down to my boat tomorrow and check it out, but Iām pretty sure this is working!
So, I am trying to do this, but I am using the 1/8" IRs from most home automation systems. However, when trying to connect to 3.3 and pin D4 on a ESP8266 it just lights solid red?
I canāt seem to find any articles on using a two wire but tons on a 3 wire? Any have videos or guide on using a two wire and what I am missing?
Hi, Iām trying to get this working but looks like my transmitter does not work. Should you receive anything in the log file other than button pressed? This is the only thing I see in the logs of my esp device, was expecting the IR transmitter also to have a log line.
Have you checked the initial part of your log (violet text) for any errors during the initialization phase of your transmitter? Show use the relevant YAML config for your button and your transmitter config.
If you look at the upper right corner of the post you will see that Iām asking Pidiot what pins he used. And no, I donāt mean emitter. I have been working with IR for 20 years, so I do know the difference. Pidiot is using a cheap IR emitter instead of the one youāre talking about. I have around 20 of those laying around.
Not really a problem at all, this. I have a Pioneer car audio player in a marine box in my boat, the Mad Max, and I want to be able to control power and volume from Hass. Turns out that setting the dump to Pioneer worked perfectly, since itās a Pioneer device that shouldnāt suprised me. This is volume up, volume down and source/power. A bit annoying that the thing doesnāt have discreet power codes.
So GPIO22 and ground for plus and ground on the emitter, and I was able to send a code that the IR receiver interpreted as the Pioneer code I was trying to send. I have to go down to my boat tomorrow and check it out, but Iām pretty sure this is working!