This doesn’t look like the controllers that we have. probably won’t be supported.
I’m finally in a position to play with this, and have this sort of control, with three wires (RGW) plus ground. How did you hook it up?
Hi folks, really happy to see this!
Thank you so much @rabbit-aaron for puting this together.
My AC remote control is the old version like the one of @miriumar and as it doesn’t have IR I was thinking that I would never be able to integrate it in HA. The solution that I had found to do it was an Intesis box, and that thing is pretty expensive.
So, I never used any ESP board or have knowledge on this kind things, but I’m ready to get my hands dirty.
I’m just starting to make my purchase but would like to ask if you could validate that these are the right components:
- MCP2025-300E/P
- ESP32-DevKitC-32E - they have so many versions, would this one work one? I also saw that the E version has some differences, but I don’t really know which would be the right one.
- Buck converter LM2596 with screen (they don’t seem to have a version without screen like the one you’re using).
- 10 uF Capacitor/25V
- 10 kOhms resistor 3W
- PCB Board
I hope to not be violating any rule due to post to a commerce place - I just don’t want to buy the wrong stuff and this store was the only where I saw that I could find the MCP-2025-330 sending to PT…
Besides wiring and soldering stuff, do I need anything more? Sorry the noob questions, but I never done something like this and I don’t want to burn my AC…
Thank you for the help.
Hi @Capelo,
I can only provide my experience and suggestions and you can decide what to do. From my side, your suggestions looks fine but in my case, it was bit different.
Few time ago I bought an “Elegoo kit” that comes with bunch of “entry level” components. The protoboard for instance is great because you can test all the connections and make sure that it works before solder anything.
My ESP32 model is: AZDelivery ESP32 ESP-WROOM-32
My buck converter is simpler without display so I had to use a “tester” to make sure output voltage. It was bought long time ago in Aliexpress. I would recommend you to get a tester too. These are not difficult to use.
The MCP-2025 was the trickiest one… I found it on the very same website than yours but the shipping cost were over the place so finally end up buying it on Ebay.
I can share the links over PM if you need.
Hope it helps.
Hi @miriumar ,
I really appreciate your help! I also found a buck converter without the display in Aliexpress (and cheaper), BUT as this was the only place where I could find the MCP2025, I was puting all there exactly due to the ridiculous shipping costs.
Unfortunately, I don’t find the MCP2025 on eBay… If you still have the links, please send them to me. Thanks a lot!! 
I found it but now there is no stock… MCP2025-500E/P LIN Transceiver DIP-8 Microchip RoHS (lot de 2) | eBay
Maybe if you have to buy several things the shipping cost can be reduced on mouser site. Bought a couple, just in case…
That’s the MCP2025-500. From what I’ve read, that one has an output of 5V, the 330 has an output of 3.3V, that is the required to the ESP32 I/O.
I may be saying something very stupid as I never done nothing similar to this, but when I was searching this afternoon I kind of got to that conclusion moving me away from the 500.
I don’t recall exactly why I end up chosing the -500 model (as per datasheet you are right, is the 5V model) but for your information, ESP32 can work on both 3,3V or 5V.
I may end up chosing -500 because of difficulties to buy this chip. However, now I am wondering if the capacitor or resistence should be different then…
Anyway, I have it working and have not failed once since begining of July.
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Well, I’ve just submited my purchased. As the shipping costs were free after 50€, bought the double of everything - now I’ve spares. It was almost the same price as paying shipping just for 1 unit of each…
I’ll just wait for the stuff to arrive to try to build it. 
Hello:
I`m from Spain and i apologize from my poor english. I’m going to connect my old general (fujitsu) air conditioning to ESP32. My hardware its voltaje stepdown (12v to 5v), esp-wroom-32d and i have the problem with the line to ttl converter. I buy this:
To check if this adapter works correctly i only want turn-on the air conditioning. I
I put this simple code but don´t work. I don´t know where its the problem .
#include "FujiHeatPump.h"
FujiHeatPump hp;
void setup() {
hp.connect(&Serial2, true);
hp.setOnOff(true);
delay(10000);
}
void loop() {
if(hp.waitForFrame()) {
delay(60);
hp.sendPendingFrame();
}
´´´´
Thanks a lot for the help, i´m sorry from my EnglishI don’t have experience with LIN bus, and hence I only suggested the hardware in Unreality’s repo. Maybe you can reach out to him in github there.
iirc ESP32 are not 5V logic compatible, probably better to have a logic level shifter just to be safe.
All the components in the list look good!
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Hey @mattmoo I just received the parts today 
Any reason why you’re feeding the ESP32 with 3.3V instead of 5V as the @rabbit-aaron suggests?
Hello:
I test with esp32 and nor working and i test with nodemcu (5 volts interface) . The nodemcu not have Serial2 i put Serial1 and normal serial (define hp.connect(&Serial, true) and dont work.
I cant find MCP2025 .The other circuit runs with tja1020 (its an Linbus transceiver like mcp2025).
What can i do to run it?
Thanks a lot for respond my answer very fast
Mainly because there is no access to the 5V pin with the breadboard. Also my understanding is that the ESP32 just burns the extra voltage down to 3.3V anyway. So you’re just generating heat giving it 5V, but of course you need to trust your regulator (buck converter) not to fry the ESP32.
One difference that I noted was that it wasn’t working when I had the ESP32 on and cycled the heat pump power, but it started communicating when I reset the ESP32 after powering on the heat pump.
Hey Guys,
I have been enjoying the use of this little project, writing automations etc. The one thing I have noticed however is when checking the attributes of the unit in H.A, I don’t see anything I can use for the current operating mode of the AC unit, ie fan, heat, cool, dry.
I would like to write an automation that test if the ac is actually on, then does something. What I’m thinking is rather than paying for zone control, I purchased three 240v dampers, then with the sonoff dual flashed with tasmota I was able to configure it in shutter mode. This way I can have an input number in H.A that can be used to set the temp of each room by opening and closing the damper as required. This issue I have though is that this is going to function differently when in cool mode as apposed to heat mode but the automation would need to know the state to adjust for this.
If I click the three dots on the top right of the climate card in lovelace, I can see an option for the operation mode but this doesn’t currently show up an an attribute I can check.
Appreciate any assistance you could offer.
Kindest regards,
Nathan
Hey, the state is the operating mode.
it’s one of the hvac_modes: off, cool, heat, fan_only, dry, auto
Do you see any errors on your Fujitsu controller?
it’s recommended to stick to the hardware suggested from unreality’s post, cuz I am a software developer and know little about hardware … I cannot tell u if other components would work or not.