Make sure you try it with the supplied antenna also. I had an high gain antenna and when I hooked it up, it worked OK, but I also hooked up the supplied antenna to an extension cable and it has a much better signal. Sent back the external antenna. Could have just been the brand or a bad one, but the supplied antenna with an extension cable is doing great for me.
Seems everything is working better now since i changed to the ew11 with a good antenna. The outdoor hunting antenna works great for me. Not sure everyone will have the same results.
My issue with the wifi is not distance, actually i have wifi repeaters all over the place, even outside (I use WAX220’s - they are convenient with the PoE). My issue is the closest wifi repeater to the pool equipment panel is maybe 10 feet away but behind a concrete wall.
Using the high gain antenna helped for me.
I may just end up adding a WiFi to Ethernet adapter at the pool equipment panel since i already have ethernet run there.
That said, i still do need to hit the button on HA a couple times sometimes before it takes. And sometimes one push does it. No matter what i do i can’t get the Configuration Menu to unlock via HA or Remote.
I do have one question though.
Is there any way to control the heater temperature? My heater is always set to auto, but the temp setting is always set to either off/auto or the lowest temp of 65f.
Maybe its doable with a script?
If every button press worked perfectly, i can see how to do it via script. Since not every button press takes, i am not sure how else it can be done accurately.
I left the heater at an auto temp of i think 95f one time (for hot tub), the pool filter was on and the valve didn’t trigger to pool - So equipment thought it was the spa filter - I must have went through at least 100 gallons of propane heating the entire pool that night (i have a 40k gal pool). That was an expensive mistake.
Never again!
Now what i do is start the spa filter, then manually adjust the heater temp afterwards.
Was hoping there was a way to automate this through HA using this add-on.
One more thing;
I’m still a bit confused on which script to import to the EW11.
On the google share drive in the documentation, there is a v011 script, then on the github page there is a v06 script.
They are not identical.
For now i am using the v011 script since it looks like it was the most recently updated.
And just a note;
This line in the config:
usescript: True #Set to False if not using script on a network device
The description is a bit confusing. I am using the script imported to the EW11, its not actually being shared from any network device.
Sorry, I don’t have a heater, so I can’t help with those questions.
Both scripts will work, but it’s probably best to use the latest on Mark’s Google drive. The latest version works with both the P4 and PS8. Previously, you needed to load a script that was specific to the P4 or PS8. I haven’t looked it a while to see if he’s updated anything. I’ll just grab the latest and put it in the Github.
The EW11 is the network device. I used the generic term network device instead of EW11 just in case someone finds another device that can use scripting like the EW11. I added (EW11) to the readme.
@alexr544 if you haven’t already, have a read through this post above and the ten or so that follow it. My pool system has been operating in this way for two years now, haven’t touched the panel’s heater set point even once since.
Example configuration.yaml thermostat entity:
climate:
- platform: generic_thermostat
unique_id: s86r5mnCYeW8
name: Hayward Pool Heater
heater: switch.aqualogic_heater_1
target_sensor: sensor.aqualogic_pool_temperature
min_temp: 15
max_temp: 35
precision: 1.0
I’m unclear on how to interpret your system, are the pool and hot tub separate heaters, or one all together? If the Hayward system pool and hot tub heaters and water temps all appear as separate entities in Home Assistant, you’d define two generic thermostats.
Thanks will check it out.
The way my system is setup is with heater in dual mode. Since its shared with pool/spa.
That’s another tricky part. It basically renders valve 3 useless. Why? I have no idea.
Its like valve3 has a mind of its own.
And then that means i basically only have one usable valve, which stinks.
It would be so much easier with just basic smart wifi actuators, instead of the ones i have that hook up to the prologic board.
My setup is almost like a maze of pipes.
I have a ingound caretaker 99 - 8 port cleaning head return.
1 pump and filter for spa, 1 pump and filter for pool. 1 heater shared for pool or spa, but not both at once unless its spa overflow, which requires pool pump/filter on and return valve to spa, not pool.
Have a return to a waterfall, spa overflow, or pool. The caretaker cycles pool/waterfall/spa every 60 seconds.
I can also bypass the caretaker 99, and return to waterfall only(which i never do).
Also have a valve for pool suction which switches between bottom and skimmer. This is on valve4, on a timer.
My heater is setup like this.
On the heater itself the temp is set to highest temp it can go. The heater is connected to the prologic board. Its a starite 400k btu heater.
The temp for heater is set on the prologic for either pool or spa, the prologic uses a temperature sensor for whichever is running. 1 temp sensor for pool and 1 temp sensor for spa.
The prologic turns the heater on based on the temp sensor reading, and the temp set for the heater in prologic.
I know im kinda all over the place. This is just the best i know how to explain it.
Sorry didn’t mean to sound nitpicky. Its just when i read network device for a script, i immediately think of a shared drive. And figured others may get confused as well.
Thanks for updating
A weird thing happened last week. After applying os&software updates, the AquaLogic integration went flaky, very similar to what alexr544 has experienced. Button presses that used to be dependable – if sometimes slightly delayed – mostly never take effect at all now.
My Home Assistant runs inside a VirtualBox vm on an Ubuntu Server host. The Linux patches updated the Linux kernel from 6.5 to 6.8. Afterward, the VirtualBox vm wouldn’t start.
To get the vm and Home Assistant running again, I ended up upgrading VBox from version 6 to version 7. Everything seems fine, except for the AquaLogic integration. There are hundreds of these message pairs spread through the home-assistant.log (where ttyUSB0 is the adapter wired to the pool panel):
ERROR Connection to /dev/ttyUSB0 lost
INFO Connecting to/dev/ttyUSB0
Now, it could be that the USB adapter hardware coincidentally started to fail that same day. Unlikely, but possible. So I plan to restore the server back to Linux 6.5 to see if that returns integration stability. If it stabilizes, I’ll assume the problem is a driver issue with either Linux 6.8 or VBox 7, and will try again to get VBox 6 working on Linux 6.8.
Update: I restored the server to an image from August at Linux 6.5 and the AquaLogic integration returned to normal operation. So the USB adapter is fine.
I got the server re-updated to Linux 6.8, but again despite all attempts the Home Assistant vm refused to start under VirtualBox 6. So again I upgraded to VirtualBox 7, but with a couple differences:
- last week I had downloaded VBox 7 directly from Oracle; this time I followed a procedure online to point at Ubuntu’s repository for VBox 7; that should not make any difference, but who knows
- rather than continue with the pre-existing Home Assistant vm, I deleted the vm and rebuilt the shell from scratch under VBox 7, then restored the entire Home Assistant config from backup.
The AquaLogic integration now appears to be operating as expected, and no more error log messages. Somehow, some driver in Linux 6.8 or VBox 7 now gets along better with the USB adapter.
But what a bunch of time wasting nonsense.