Amazing! Glad to hear this!
Mounting the hinges and actuator on the underside of the cabinets was pain in the ass btw…
I agree…been there, done that 
You can definitely use the board without Tasmota, using Tuya ecosystem/integration.
If you never flashed Tasmota, this is not the best board to start with…it’s a bit trickier then most boards since it has to be powered from the programmer board and the USB port.
To get starting with Tasmota or ESPhome I recomand watching DrZzs youtube channel. Great content, lots of examples … and a video is always better than forum talk.
Also, what do I need to buy to be able to flash the board? Loads of options on the tasmota website.
To flash a board I recommend a FT232BL Serial Adapter.
If you buy that you might as well get some jumpers to connect the board to the serial and a cheap soldering kit will be enough for a long time.
You need more info, don’t hesitate to ask.
Good luck with your project! Let us know how it works!
It only bloody works don’t it! 
I used a sonoff integration and i’ve managed to do it LAN side without needing to flash it!
Built it all on a board today and its working great, now I just need to integrate it into my kitchen.
I’ve decided to build an enclosed garage that uses an interchangeable front, so if I ive move house I can just remove it in one piece and take it wtih me.
Learned a lot from this one, thanks for ya help, and the docs above really set me in the right direction and gave me the confidence to take a crack at it!
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Really glad to see it! Congratz!!!
How do you handle the issue of something blocking the door? I see that you have the opposite handled well by the Velcro hinge.
Not much can stand in the way of a 100N actuator. If something is in front it will most probably be pushed out.
If the vacuum can’t get out it will automatically return to the dock and send a notification on the phone. Once the vacuum status is changed to ‘docked’ from something else it will automatically close the door.
This is just normal operation, not specifically made for the situation of something blocking the door.
its been a while for this, but would the below power supply be fine to use instead of what was used?
those gray brackets…source?
I was looking at using some steel angle bracket material (something like this)
Thanks so much!
Hi. Thanks for sharing this. This is so cool.
I am working on something similar and are almost there. I had it working using “simple” automations, but then I had the problem of the door being too slow to open when I started the vacuum. I then found your post and I guess it is what you are solving with the python script? I can get my servos to open and close by calling the vacdoor_open/close scripts, but nothing happens when I start the vacuum from HA. Do I need to change anything in the python script, or is there something else I have missed?
Hope you can help. Thanks again! And very, very good job!
Hey @kpamphilon could you please share the UK link to all the parts required please to build this project?
Thanks.
Just a word of caution for people that are wanting to build this. I just bought the same AIdeepen relay. This however no longer has an ESP82xx on board, but a custom Tuya chip. Mine says CB3S, and as far as I can see, this is not flashable to ESPhome/Tasmota.
I’m now working on the tuya/localtuya integration in HASS, which should work as well.
I’d probably just buy another ESP and relay board for the sake of a few dollars.
Devices like this may change from time to time but they are most probably produced under different names/brands and found on alixpress.
To anyone having similar problems, I recommend looking for a suitable device in the official tasmota devices page
Yeah, I would as well. Found it hard to find something that was guaranteed to work with 12V, hass AND have the interlocking.
Also, nobody mentioned this before, and if you just click the links above which have worked just fine before, you might have the same issues 
The solution I’ve used previously for other projects is a 12V power supply, then a buck converter to get 5V for the ESP. The ESP can be anything from a basic ESP8266, Wemos D1 Mini (8266 anyway), ESP32 etc. Connect the ESP to a relay board and do the interlocking in hardware for guaranteed safety.
This is how you wire relays for hardware interlocking. Outputs connect to 1, 2 and 3 and no two will ever be energised at the same time.
This is what I used. You should be able to get one locally or a cheap version from China. I paid the extra for a local one to not have to wait for shipping.
