Not sure I can help you there, I’m in Aus and wasn’t looking to sell them
Has anyone considered just wiring up something like the Fibaro Smart Implant to the built in switch on the hikvision so that when it closes, the smart implant sent a sensor event that it went on? The smart implant will run off of 12 volts, so it seems like it would work. Also could be configured to buzz the gate via zwave.
I asked Hikvision about doing this on the DS-KV6113-WPE1. There’s only 1 relay output on the door station (for the door release). So we can re-map this output to trigger on button press, and attach a sensor like the fiabro implant, but you will lose the ability to have a door release.
Alternatively if you are using an indoor monitor for the intercom, you can map an output on the monitor and use the implant module on that instead.
Couldn’t you just solder it straight onto the button you press to ring the doorbell and not use any of the relay outputs? That should also close the circuit…
If you want to go that far, then I dont see why it wouldnt work
I’d like to use the door relay so that’s what I’m thinking about doing.
Have you thing to do something else with the indor wiring?You can trigger with display relay another wifi or zwave device and then you have an own api from the other device wenn someone hit the out button.
Thats a great idea. Hadn’t considered it no. I guess alarm out 1 & 2 would do the trick? I kinda worked around my ‘problems’
1/ used ffmpeg script to save a still snapshot of the VIDEO feed every 10 secs to disk, which HASS lovelave reads from
2/ i get advance notice of someone walking up my path toward the door via a full hikvision cam, with line crossing.
3/ re button press capture, i can live without that integrated, as to be honest, if you are in the house, easy enough to walk to indoor station, and if remote, the push notification takes you right into the hik-connect app… that you need to be inside of anyway for two-way audio and video, and door release. so dont think i need to fiddle with the relay outputs, good idea as it is.
Still super happy with my parts. Im doing keypad door release of the main door, plus button driven release of side gate, ticks all boxes i need. Even the wife loves it (no keys now). Result!
I’m using a dvr connected through the alarm outputs. It’s connected to an audrino uno, direct to a pie using firmata. It works great. I’m also using ESP32 with esphome elsewhere. They’re small and have wifi onboard. It would be really easy to connect to the alarm out. Then you could use it as a switch/binary_switch.
Edit: node32 --> ESP32… been using nodered recently
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I use another easy way to take the alarm outpouts from NVR. i use a Shelly i3 and this have 3 inpouts,with this can trigger any other reley thrue wifi(url) without HA but i can also well use this trigger to HA.
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Guys, did you succeed the doorbell press event on a hikvision intercom? I bought myself the doordbird d2101kv, verry expensive, but really crap quality… Worst audio ever… Gonna bring it back and exchange with an hikvision intercom
Hey @keiran.harris bought myself the doordbird, but audio quality is so bad!! Gonna return in and buy hikvision instead…
Did you already manage to get a door press event With the alarm out?
How did you wired your elektrical door? I have a powered 24v door… what connectors did you use?
Also, isn’t SIP another way to make it smart? Isn’t it possible to connect to a sip server? And then on incoming call, make a webhook ?
hey @pergola.fabio. Yes an no 
RE audio quality, sorry to hear. Hikvision is good there (in my opinion anyway). Warning though - I have been very used to amazing image quality from the Hikvision family, but the Hikvision door station camera is notably worse, and zero infrared LED so “night vision” would have to rely on motion detectors tripping a porch light or something (which is ok for me, as I want that for security anyway). See attached. Also, some little (TBH easy) hacking required if you want the STILL image in Lovelace like I have done - recall from my post above that there is no HTTP listener on these so you have to open the RTSP stream and grab a still using ffmpeg. Can share all this if and when you need it.
RE door press event - nope, haven’t done any more there. Im actually ok so far with the “hik-connect” app on my phone (as this is where the 2-way audio and video will be if you are on holiday etc). I like your idea of SIP integration, that could work, in theory! and yup there is a place to integrate to SIP, both on the indoor station (pictured) and via i-VMS. Also see on the screenshot a useful feature is you can link your other RTSP cameras you have on property so you have them show on the indoor station
RE electrical connections - I assume you know about the “electric strike” (the part that unlocks when you enter a correct code / trigger remote entry) this is what I bought: https://www.fshlocking.com.au/en/products/electric-strike/fes10-series.html
Heres my wiring design. As you can see im also using it to drive my side-gate unlock (has some issue there as its about 15m away, so after a bit of trial and error, realised I need THICK wires there to prevent voltage drop). If you don’t need that, ignore all the stuff on the right of the diagram. All works great now!
Cool thnx for sharing, yeah you can share that ffmeg part for still image, i am going to try the sip method for doorpress event, i am using now also html5 notifications for desktop and then indeed hikvision for mobile (or maybe a sip client later)
I i am going to buy the hikvision, this will be the indoor DS-KH9310-WTE1, seems it can run android apps too, rdo maybe i can run HA on it
For the electric door part, on my doorbird , it’s just configured with 2 wires to the outdoor station, i just need a relay that’s default open, when correct code is given on keypad, it just needs to trigger the relay to an open state for 1 sec… Inside in my case the lock is connected to a 24 external power… I just need a contact open/close
I guess I just need no1 and com ? does the the NC1 stands for default open? and NC1 defaults closed?
That’s still not clear to me… Is that also something you can configure in the software? That the relay is default.open and it will close for xx sec? On correct code on keypad?
And you also have the keypad right? Is it true at least 6 digits are used for the keypad? 4 digits is not possible?
ok @keiran.harris , after further research the kd8003 needs all 8 wires for POE
my doorbird has POE mode a, only 4 needed
i only have 1 UTP cable (8 wires) to my outdoor, so i was thinking :
4 wires UTP => LAN only
2 wires for door relay NO1 and COM
2 wires to give the kd8003 power, from an external 12v power supply
What is the least relay duration in seconds for the electrical lock? I have it now on 2 second, i see in ohms manual that’s at least 15? It should give a pulse, normally even 1 sec is enough
Haha a few questions there. Let me pick em apart:
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NO stands for normally open. NC normally closed. It didnt make much sense to me till i started wiring up and testing. The electric strike will be configurable this way too. Basically you want to think about what happens when you loose power (NO will flip open - which i didnt want, NC will flip to its natural state of closed upon power loss). Dont think of it in terms of a relay (as in closing the circuit) its more the mechanics of the lock default state.
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the time the relay circuit is connected is configurable, yup. Ive left mine default 30 secs. I think you are right there was a minimum value. I can spin up iVMS (need the windows version i found out the hard way - mac version doesnt support all the config options for this door hardware- FYI… so i have it in a VM) if you need me to check for sure.
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12V in is defo there. See the wiring diagram i pasted above. Somewhere in the middle of the pins.
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i use PoE. Im a network engineer so know a lot about these standard, and i guess you know one variant operates on 4 core (power and data on same wires), another demands all 8 core (power and data on seperate wires)? TBH, ive rarely come across the 8 core variant, so are you sure? I know for a fact my hikvision cams demand the 4pin variant (as one of my cat6 wires only has 4 core on it). So you may find it will work, and you dont need seperate 12v in.
I think basically it will be able to do everything you need and you will figure it all out when it arrives 
Hey @keiran.harris, tnx for getting back
yeah, figured it out the difference betweetn NO and NC, i need indeed NO1 and com
but wuth my other system i give it a pulse of 1 sec, that was enought for the electrick strike… not sure what it will do with 15 or 30 sec?
i can use indeed the 4 wires only for POE, it worked on my current doorbird, but i think POE hikvision needs 8 wires, i think its using 802.af mode B, my doorbird uses mode A
are you using 4 wires on outdoor and indoor station or 8 ?
Hey, just fired up iVMS (windows version). It seems you can set the interval lower than 15. I just tried 3 secs, and it saved ok. Field allows values of 1 -> 255 secs.
RE PoE - im on 8 wires to these nodes.
Perfect , mine is delivering today,
There is also a setting below IO input / output
There is also door 1 and door 2 where you can define seconds, what could be the difference there?
Seems of you update firmware on keypad , we now can use 4 digits codes?