I’ve been trying to replicate what I’ve read in this thread for my BFT Thalia and using a Shelly Plus Uni. Annoyingly the Shelly Plus Uni inputs are different from the previous Shelly Uni ones and I’ve struggled to get my head around them as I don’t think they’re very well documented for my case of using the digital inputs with both free and powered contacts. Nonetheless this is what I’ve come up with.
Before I plug this in and test it, does anyone have experience with the Shelly Plus Uni who can advise if this is the right way to wire up the digital inputs?
Yeah, the cover pulsates as well, but it eventually ends up as a Close state. I suspect it’s behaving as if a light was hard wired in to flash. I tested a scenario by adding a LIFX bulb inside to show the status of the gate (red Open, green Closed). When the gate closes, the bulb flashes red and green. I bought an ESP32 to see if I can wire up a small LED to provide a similar effect inside the front door.
Coming back to this thread in September 2024, it’s gratifying to see so many other users making use of the original information!
In answer to your question, no, I wouldn’t change a thing & my automation has been working flawlessly since install. I turned off the ‘open gate when approaching home’ automation, since on my phones at least, the HA location sensor isn’t reliable enough to open the gate…or at least the whole thing was more trouble than I could be bothered with (may get bored and have another go…).
Hi @Benjamest ,
I am doing exactly the same as you (BTW, nice diagram ).
CAUTION: I just burned (a few minutes ago) the Shelly Plus Uni!!!
I did all the connections in my breadboard (test bench) powering the Uni using 5V DC (pin #5 and #6). I tested everything, configured it on Shelly cloud. Everything looking good.
My plan was to follow exactly your diagram, except the IN2! The outputs #20 and #21 are powered by 24VAC!!!
So I wouldn’t connect it to the inputs of the Shelly Uni. I will only use #26 and #27 that are dry contacts (relay).
But when I connected everything on the Thalia, nothing was happening (the Uni was not powering on) and I burned it
I got a multimeter to measure the 24VAC outputs (#61 and #62) and I was getting a reading of more than 30VAC !!!
The issue is that The Shelly uni accepts up to 24VAC peak voltage, and the 24VAC
announced by Thalia are RMS!!!
I will get another Shelly and I will use directly a lower voltage from the Thalia transformer that is feeding the main board. It has 3 outputs on the secondary: 15V, 20V and 24V (RMS). The Thalia is using the 24V (>30V) and I will use the 15V which is ~21V peak.
Or I will add a 220VAC to 5VDC transformer jst to power my Uni.
I hope I was able to help you. Let’s share experiences to finish this small, but very usefull, project.