It is a good question even if I’m not a security expert I will try to answer; I think it is a question of risk versus means that we want to make in our security systems. Several points:
Regarding jamming, every RF transmission could be jammed, wifi, bluetooth, 2G, 3G, 4G, 433mhz, zigbee etc the safer way would be to be with wired sensors, as soon as we are going RF we are exposed to powerfull emitters that emit on multi frequencies. Unfortunately it seems quite easy to find frequency jammers.
–>What can be done is to detect jammer, by sending a regular signal by RF and check if this signal is received by the central
Regarding making a study of RF codes emitted, to know if you are home or not I think in all the case if someone target your home and do some observation he can deduct this quite easily (if you haven’t taken some actions to prevent this).
–>Do you know that there is function of certain home automation systems that record the change of lights, plugs … and reproduce it as a presence simulation scenario. Even if you don’t have this function you can produce a script with some random properties to reproduce your presence when you are not here.
In my side I think I have a very low risk for sniffing and even if they succeed in, my alarm can’t be deactivated by RF. I think the risk of jamming is higher. That’s why I have some wired sensors like security cameras. In all the case putting zigbee, zwave, proprietary protocols or using wifi will not help against jamming.
Can’t say, I would be interested if it is the case but I don’t think it will work out of the box. We will need someone to hack the signal and modify rcswitch library.
Thanks everyone for your input on the security. I guess 433Mhz sensors are good enough for home use but not for sensitive places like a bank vault.
IMHO, 433Mhz sensors are more suitable for usage at the exterior of the house such as balcony, car porch, backyard, front door, back door, windows, etc… because there is no point sniffing the code when a burglar can visually monitor the areas.
That’s a good idea. I think I can create an automation in HA to do just that.
Yes, I know that and I plan to do that when I change all my wall switches or bulbs to smart one that can be integrated into HA.
I guess the only way to find out is to get my hand on one of these babies.
Yes. From what I can tell most use style 1 on this page: https://home-assistant.io/getting-started/devices/ This allows for using include files seen in the cookbook section. (If you use style 2 everything has a unique name with no dashes)
So in style 1 there is one category for switches, lights, groups etc. So if you have multiple switches, you simply add the dashes before each platform under the switch section. (don’t forget spacing)
for Obvious reasons you only want to be warned when a window or door is opened by a burglar.
he probably wont close it anyway.
if there are simple doorautomationsensors with 433 mhz i dont know.
i know you can use a simple sensor on an arduino (magnetic, PIR, distance, power, etc.)
but you need an arduino(or nodeMCU) somewhere in the neibourhood from your windows(s) and door(s)
I found this one. According to the title, it can detect open and close state and base on the feedback, it works with RFXcom433E and Jeedom so I assume this will work with the gateway as well. I am waiting for confirmation from the seller before purchasing this.
hello guys.
i think that is a good and cheap idea for the control some things in our home.
now i have a question, i want to buy a rf switch for change my actual swich wall, and i want to control its via RF. what is the best and cheap choice?
can u give me a link?
I need a european switch because i from Portugal.
hello @1technophile
but you dont understand my question, i want to buy HALL switchs, not sockets.
can you tell me a cheap and a good choice for buy hall switchs?
I’ve got the RF components up and running in HA based on @brusc tutorial. While it works great, it looks like crap and my OCD is driving me nuts having these components and wire flinging around. Anyone have a 3d printer model that I could use to clean up the aesthetics? Or how do you guys handle the extra wires and components?
Interesting, are they battery powered or 220V powered? In the last case I suppose there is 3 connectors behind, two for the power and one to go to the lamp? on the picture I see only two screws