Hi @GuySie,
What graph card/component are you using that supports color ranges?
Thanks 
Any idea if this would work in some sort of enclosure for outdoor use? I live in MN so it temps can range from -30F to 110F between summer and winter.
That’s what I use! mini-graph-card is amazing.
I don’t think so that it would really tolerate that range of temperature, but look at this:
Got mine working great, but I used a temporary long length of cable so I took it back apart, trimmed the cable and resoldered. As I screwed the case together I heard a small crunch… and a rattle. I reopened the case and found I’d put the ESP8266 into a position where the ceramic wifi antenna was wedged and as I screwed it tight the it shattered.
Never mind, I went to go swap it out and in doing so ripped one of the pads off the Vindrinktnings PCB…By this point I thought my luck cant get any worse and tried to use the trace at the top of the board…which also ripped off.
I have 4 more that have arrived so this time around Im doing it slightly differently. I bought 4x 5way picoblade sockets, and 2x 5way picoblade double ended cables. My soldering is far from the best but I managed to solder the picoblade socket to the top of the board. When the cables arrive I’ll be cutting them in half (I did look at crimping my own cables but when I saw the size of the pins I decided against it) and soldering them to the ESPs and just plugging in. No more damaging pads and track for me
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Can you share some links where you ordered those from and what exactly?
The sockets were from Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203317688275 - and the cables are from Farnell - https://uk.farnell.com/molex/15134-0501/cable-assy-5pos-rcpt-rcpt-100mm/dp/2913936
They are standard 5 way Molex Picoblade items so you might be able to shop around and get them cheaper.
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So you’re powering Ikea PCB and sensor through Wemos 5v pins right? By connecting to the same Ikea PCB pins as in the main guide? I was wondering if this is safe and if so that means the whole system can be powered either via MicroUSB on Wemos or USB-C on Ikea PCB.
Can anyone confirm? I wouldn’t want to frymy sensor
Okay, I have to admit, the fan is starting to drive me crazy. What’s the current best practice to rewire the fan to run on constant power while using the D1-mini mod? Snip the fan cables, then hook up red directly to the 3V3 pin and black to the G pin of the D1?
Anyone else noticed this? I currently have 4 units sat next to each other as I’m trying to tweak the offsets in ESPHOME so they read as similarly as possible. I know about the accuracy not being great, my aim is for a basic indication across 4 different rooms so I’d like them to be as close to each other as possible.
So after a few days I’m pretty happy but I’ve noticed something odd whilst doing this.
Randomly 2 of the units will suddenly dip or jump, by maybe by 10-15ug, so I get a very noticeable step in the output at low levels. If you leave it long enough it will eventually “reset” and lose that offset itself. 1 unit goes high and one goes low. The other 2 are oddly pretty bang on with each other.
Obviously not a major problem, just wondered if anyone else had experienced this?
Thanks for that. Its just odd that 2 out of 4 do it, and why at random times. I’ll try my best to ignore it from now on.
Hi…
Question… I have 2 IKEA Vindriktning up and running.
One directly connected to PCB board and one where I connected the PM1006 sensor directly to a Wemos D1 Mini …
However…
The wemos connected to the PCB show 00 µg/m³ with a few movments up and down.
The Wemos directly connected to the sensor seems a lot more active.
It goes from 65 to around 45 µg/m³… Does this mean that it is more accurate or is something wrong?
See my post #133. I only reconnected the red wire to 3V3.
The fan only turns on when a measurement is done (switching transistor is on GND side of the fan…), but on lower speed and without noise.
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@drkavnger99 I have to see how it works across winter till now with temps dropping lowest to 2°C at night i dont have a problem.
Regarding the measurements, what i see is that it heavily depends on the humidity value.
With 60% or less air humidity the readings seem to be reasonable, if i compare them to other PM2.5 detectors in the city.
I mean thats why professional detectors dry the air before measurement etc. And we shouldnt forget that this is a detector which you buy for 10€ in a retail market.
Great, thanks! I did this yesterday and you’re right, it works fine. Hooked up to 3V3 the fan is inaudible, even when it turns on and off intermittently for the measurements.
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Yes, I confirm that this is the way i am doing and it seems to work fine.
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Does anyone have a PM1006 directly connected to their ESP?
There is a significant differance when using the PCB or directly connected to the ESP …
Hello, I also carried out this project, the details are in my blog:
Thank you for all your information
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