Has anyone ever experienced Vindriktning’s measurement results drifting off over time (see below) until I reset the Vindriktning (drops back to normal in the graph below)?
The drift could be set back to zero but always started again after I re-starting the entire Vindriktning
The drift was triggered by spikes (spikes lead to increasing baselines by just 1 or 2 um, which, over time, cause the sensor to drift away)
At first I thought I’m looking at a problem with the ESP, but I got exactly the same results also with a different ESP
To be absolutely sure that it’s not the ESP messing with the Vindriktning’s internal hardware, I disconnected the ESP completely. Still same drift, but had to wait for ~10 days for the measurement results turning the LED turned from green to orange.
Faulty hardware? Or has anyone else experienced the same? Can’t be that “connecting the ESP” damages he Vindriktning?
What I also found odd: From what I read online, there’s hardly any “calibration-intelligence” in the Vindriktning, but looking at the graph there has to be?
i wonder when some of these commercial products using this filter / mesh textile, it also purify the measured air or with other words faking the measurements.
Just some update on the drift: I got another Vindriktning and did the same ESP-hack. Same result: The result drifts off, not as fast as with the first Vindriktning, but it still does, and is reset with a reboot (very narrow area on the far right).
For those allowing the fan to run 100% of the time, the main issue is that the fan will fail sooner, the sensor will get dirty sooner (which will affect its function) and the noise generated by the fan may increase over time as it deteriorates mechanically. For me, these are all good reasons to ensure the fan is turned off when not needed. A simple GPIO line and a transistor can do that. The big issue I am having is the very limited space inside the case, and the fact I would like to include a temperature sensor. The ESP and the PM1006 both generate heat which skew the temperature measurements. The fan itself doesn’t do much with regards to temperature unless you put the sensor in the top section… but heat also rises so I am not sure that is the best place to put the sensor either. Has anyone found a good solution that doesn’t include a software error correction (don’t like this option as the delta is likely not fixed).
Pictures showing the source of heat in the Vindriktning:
the sensor will get dirty sooner (which will affect its function) and the noise generated by the fan may increase over time as it deteriorates mechanically.
This is excatly what was happening to mine. It was making a loud noise. When I inspected the components inside the case, there were lint on the black mesh and the fan top (where the label is) had some dirt as well. I blew it off with air spray. Tested with it before mounting it back on and the noise was gone. The fan seems ok when I spun it. It will probably happen again down the road.
For me, these are all good reasons to ensure the fan is turned off when not needed.
The OP has tested the sensor with the fan being completely turned off, but the reading off.
A simple GPIO line and a transistor can do that.
Do you have image to show how it looks like and what gpio pin used?
The article talks about variable speed but you can also just use it for on/off. When the sensor is not measuring, then ideally the fan would be off. When ready to measure, fan should be turned on and after a few seconds take the measurement if software allows this level of control. I am using a PMS5003 and with that similar sensor it can be done (no need for transistor though with that sensor).
I’ve done the way of connecting the EP32 directly to the PM1006 sensor.
I’m receiving values from the sensor so far, but my problem is that such values are way higher than it should be. I’m talking values are from 200 up to 500 and even 600.
i have 2, one drift, the other not.
the non-drifting one is in a smoking room where the particle values often goes over 100 or even 200, sometimes even 500
Is there anybody who managed to get the sensor re-calibrated?
When soldering i addecently think i messed up 1 sensors calibration, values dropped by 10 since, and a second unit still displays the old common room values.
The wrong sensor also drops to 0 sometimes.
Can i fix this by anyhow?
I accidently made a connection possible between the connector from sensor, v5 and a resistance. I unmade the connection but somehow the values seem off.
I did it the hard way: I now only use the case of the Vindriktning, but put a Sensirion SPS30 and a Sensirion SCD40 together with an ESP-01S in it. Problem solved.
The SPS30 has 1 more wire to select between UART or I2C comm (float or connected to ground). The remaining are identical to the original PM1006 : V, RX/TX, GND.
You installed the SPS30 to use UART, right? If so, is the original Ikea circuit board properly light up the front LEDs based on what the new PM sensor reports? Somehow I’d think the Ikea board might not properly read the values but I could be wrong. Perhaps the SPS30 reports values “the same way” as the PM1006 making it a drop in replacement?
The SPS30 comes with its own fan and size wise, it’s a lot thinner. Looking inside a vindri and the location of the holes behind the unit to allow air to come in, did you end up installing the new PM close to the bottom of the unit ~around where the origin fan was located?