So yesterday I added 2 sensors in the Vindriktning and a Wemos D1 mini:
CCS811, gives me CO2 and VoC
SHT31D, gives me temperature and humidity
Both use I2C, all working fine, except temperature measurement is to high, I checked inside and it is due to heat produces by the ESP…
Maybe I should make the fan run permanently ?
I looked a bit further for the LED’s, it seems green leds are connected to +5V and via R5 and R9 to the µC. Difficult to control as the are on +5V allready. Same problem for the other LED’s…
I was wondering if it wouldn’t be more easy to create a new PCB for Vindriktning, than it would just be a PCB swap and done, what you guys think ?
Did anyone was able to make the particular matter sensor work straight from the ESP ?
I used a BME680 for CO2, VoC and temperature etc. ESPHome offers a temperature offset option for the BME680_bsec sensor. I have set it to 1, and the temperature now corresponds roughly with another temperature sensor I have standing next to the Vindriktning.
My idea was that the more sensors you add to the box, the more heat is generated. So investing in one single sensor seemed logical to me.
I think every component will generate some heat. Some more, some less. reducing the number of components will also reduce the heat. I had a D1 mini without pins, so I soldered the wires directly to the Wemos and placed it under the fan. The BME680 is taped to the top of the vindriktning, so the distance is as big as possible.
Hey, guys! I’m looking at the IKEA PM sensor mod but I also want to squeeze a mhz19 in there and both happen to connect over UART. So question is - can the wemos d1 mini support two UART connections (as I imagine one cannot be shared)? Is there an alternative small board (~45 mm long) that can handle two UART connections?
That Vindriktning thing is quite interesting.
I grabbed myself one approx. two months ago an now combined it with a Wemos D1 Mini and a BME280 breakout board to make some sort of outdoor weather station.
I really dont know how accurate the Sensor is (have nothing to compare), i modified it with some hoods so that the air will be sucked in from outside of the case and will go back outside when it passed the sensor.
We will so how it works out in the next couple of months.
I really like your idea and solution how you retrofitted it, but I have doubts that the sensor was really designed for this sort of use. I mean environmental use, as outside. My main concern would be first of all humidity and condensation due to temperature differences.
And for outside I would rather choose a sensor which can measure multiple things like CO, CO2, O3, TVOC, NOx, VOCs, SO2 for better understanding what is the air quality outside.
I don’t know how is your place, but my place has terrible air during winter time. Fortunately there is a public station what can be queried through the Internet so no need for my own sensor set, and that one provides a great range of measurements.
Yep i know that that is really not the intended use for the Sensor, but hey was a nice experiment alongside with the 3D Cad and Printing. I will see if it works more than a couple of months.
There are public measurement stations in our city, but they are multiple kilometers away.
When the Sensor breaks down i maybe replace it with a Sensirion SPS30.
LED controls progress? Night mode? Looks like the photoresistor does nothing…
As far as i understant from the schematic the PIN7 controls the GREEN LEDs and Pin3 controls the orange and red colors. I’am thinking how…maybe the uC ouputs low for turn on red and high for turn on orange? …but then… how does it turn off everything except green (high on pin7)
My idea is to chop off uC legs 3 and 7 but i don’t know what signal to generate to control LEDs individually.
Thanks all for this great post and your valuable contribution. The day after I read it, I went to the local Ikea store, bought a sensor and succeeded doing the integration and setup with in 2 hours. I use the Esphome approach, and it just worked at once.
Most of the time I spent figuring out where and how to place the D1 Mini. Therefor I would like to share some of my pictures and ideas about that.
1- I placed the D1Mi under the fan, like others also did here. In order to save as much space as possible, I soldered the wires directly on the board
Notice: I fastened the wires by cutting a track for them in the plastic like that for the fan. This insures that the wires don’t get in the way for the board and make it difficult to close the cabinet.
Now I can use the original Usb-C port, and the Micro-usb port to power the final product.
So I need not buy a usb-C cable but use a micro USB cable that I already had. Notice: Another thing I also use an old 1A usb power supply which seams to work just fine. So I didn’t need to buy a new power supply neither.
