IKEA Vindriktning Air Quality Sensor

So yesterday I added 2 sensors in the Vindriktning and a Wemos D1 mini:

  • CCS811, gives me CO2 and VoC
  • SHT31D, gives me temperature and humidity
    Both use I2C, all working fine, except temperature measurement is to high, I checked inside and it is due to heat produces by the ESP…
    Maybe I should make the fan run permanently ?

I looked a bit further for the LED’s, it seems green leds are connected to +5V and via R5 and R9 to the µC. Difficult to control as the are on +5V allready. Same problem for the other LED’s…

I was wondering if it wouldn’t be more easy to create a new PCB for Vindriktning, than it would just be a PCB swap and done, what you guys think ?
Did anyone was able to make the particular matter sensor work straight from the ESP ?

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I used a BME680 for CO2, VoC and temperature etc. ESPHome offers a temperature offset option for the BME680_bsec sensor. I have set it to 1, and the temperature now corresponds roughly with another temperature sensor I have standing next to the Vindriktning.
My idea was that the more sensors you add to the box, the more heat is generated. So investing in one single sensor seemed logical to me.

For me, it’s not the sensors, nut the Wemos making the heat… and yeah, it stays a small box…
Will try with the offset.

I think every component will generate some heat. Some more, some less. reducing the number of components will also reduce the heat. I had a D1 mini without pins, so I soldered the wires directly to the Wemos and placed it under the fan. The BME680 is taped to the top of the vindriktning, so the distance is as big as possible.

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Hi, thanks for the config - I use it for my sensor. But for some reason I am getting unknown for the air sensor:
Any clues?

Hey, guys! I’m looking at the IKEA PM sensor mod but I also want to squeeze a mhz19 in there and both happen to connect over UART. So question is - can the wemos d1 mini support two UART connections (as I imagine one cannot be shared)? Is there an alternative small board (~45 mm long) that can handle two UART connections?

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Have a look above, someone has done it:


Exactly the same here. Did you manage to get it working yet?

I think this shematic is very well done…

but maybe a found a mistake, according to datasheet and my voltage continuity meter the 5v and GND are swapped.

Here is my version (with some english led colors translation)

Here is the schematic i found for ES7P001 uC:


Probably the chinese website will be down in the future… so here is an excertp ( i cannot upload PDF due to community restriction)

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That Vindriktning thing is quite interesting.
I grabbed myself one approx. two months ago an now combined it with a Wemos D1 Mini and a BME280 breakout board to make some sort of outdoor weather station.

I really dont know how accurate the Sensor is (have nothing to compare), i modified it with some hoods so that the air will be sucked in from outside of the case and will go back outside when it passed the sensor.
We will so how it works out in the next couple of months.

I documented it a bit more in detail on my blog (unfortunately not translated yet but many pictures):


I really like your idea and solution how you retrofitted it, but I have doubts that the sensor was really designed for this sort of use. I mean environmental use, as outside. My main concern would be first of all humidity and condensation due to temperature differences.

And for outside I would rather choose a sensor which can measure multiple things like CO, CO2, O3, TVOC, NOx, VOCs, SO2 for better understanding what is the air quality outside.

I don’t know how is your place, but my place has terrible air during winter time. Fortunately there is a public station what can be queried through the Internet so no need for my own sensor set, and that one provides a great range of measurements.

Yep i know that that is really not the intended use for the Sensor, but hey was a nice experiment alongside with the 3D Cad and Printing. I will see if it works more than a couple of months.
There are public measurement stations in our city, but they are multiple kilometers away.
When the Sensor breaks down i maybe replace it with a Sensirion SPS30.

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LED controls progress? Night mode? Looks like the photoresistor does nothing…

As far as i understant from the schematic the PIN7 controls the GREEN LEDs and Pin3 controls the orange and red colors. I’am thinking how…maybe the uC ouputs low for turn on red and high for turn on orange? …but then… how does it turn off everything except green (high on pin7)

My idea is to chop off uC legs 3 and 7 but i don’t know what signal to generate to control LEDs individually.

Some suggestions? Thanks

Hey guys,

Thanks all for this great post and your valuable contribution. The day after I read it, I went to the local Ikea store, bought a sensor and succeeded doing the integration and setup with in 2 hours. I use the Esphome approach, and it just worked at once.

Most of the time I spent figuring out where and how to place the D1 Mini. Therefor I would like to share some of my pictures and ideas about that.

1- I placed the D1Mi under the fan, like others also did here. In order to save as much space as possible, I soldered the wires directly on the board

and now it fits perfectly:

Notice: Make sure to turn it the way I did, in order to avoid contact with that little skrew

2- I got the idea that I can use the Micro-usb port on the D1Mi to power the setup. So I made a hole in the back of the cabinet:

which is almost aligned with that on the board:

3- In order to make sure the board don’t move when putting the micro-usb cable in and out, I used hot glue to fix it:

Notice: I fastened the wires by cutting a track for them in the plastic like that for the fan. This insures that the wires don’t get in the way for the board and make it difficult to close the cabinet.

And that is it:

Now I can use the original Usb-C port, and the Micro-usb port to power the final product.

So I need not buy a usb-C cable but use a micro USB cable that I already had.
Notice: Another thing I also use an old 1A usb power supply which seams to work just fine. So I didn’t need to buy a new power supply neither.

The whole project cost me about 15$ :slight_smile:

Please let me know if you might have any question.


Hi @GuySie,

What graph card/component are you using that supports color ranges?

Thanks :slight_smile:

I found the mini-graph-card.
It is really nice with many customization options

Any idea if this would work in some sort of enclosure for outdoor use? I live in MN so it temps can range from -30F to 110F between summer and winter.

That’s what I use! mini-graph-card is amazing.

I don’t think so that it would really tolerate that range of temperature, but look at this: