Recommend 50A with 40A level 2 charger
If you use Cat6 one wire will do. I plan to use this extender.
Even if I can’t get the absolute best 4K resolution for the Blu-Ray over a single Cat6, I’m fine with that. I’m going to have a theater area (not its own room, but projector with big screen) in my basement near the control room. I should be able to run HDMI from the receiver to the projector. If we want the absolute highest quality image we will just watch it there. I’ll probably run a few extra Cat6 cables to the major TVs and just leave them hanging in the wall in case I need them later.
I plan to build tablets as remote controls for each major TV area. I figure I can find a way to have the image pushed to the tablet much easier.
What’s the reason for this?
We will have a few windows in our great room that will be 19 feet off the floor. I plan to at least hard wire those. I might as well hardwire the rest.
I don’t think our homeowners association will allow solar panels, I’ll have to check. I do plan to run two “smurf tubes” from the control room (where the electrical panel will be) to each attic cavity. One for future high voltage lines and one for future low voltage runs. I don’t plan to have an electric car anytime soon, not really my thing. But I am planning to run some 30 amp wiring to my garage attic as well as a gas pipe. I may add a mini-split A/C with a heater or a gas heater to the garage. I’m also considering in-floor heat. Maybe a combination of all those.
I originally thought about hanging the UniFi APs on the ceiling like a smoke detector, but I;m not sure if that mill meet the WAF. We were touring new homes this summer and I noticed a home with UniFi that put the APs in the closets. Not sure what I want to do on that just yet.
I previously used this model from Startech because it didn’t require power and had IR extender… but I don’t think it will do 4K. You’ll need a separate unit for each HDMI Output:
I meant to say ceiling windows! In case you want to motorize them or put in motorized blinds.
Please don’t put them in closets… that will significantly reduce the signal straight away. They’re very discreet on the ceiling and look good.
I recommend using a WIFI planning tool to ensure you have sufficient reception around the house. You can use the following software to import your house plans and measure WIFI signal around the house:
This tool will help you see what to purchase but won’t generate a heatmap. There’s one built into the Ubiquiti Unifi Contoller but you’ll need to install the software on a Ubiquiti Unifi CloudKey or A Raspberry Pi. Acutally, you can install it on windows too.
Ubiquiti have a unifi demo online. Check it out at the link abouve.
Turn on Layers -> Coverage to see the heatmap element of it
Hope this helps. Happy planning!
Not sure where this is but in Arizona, USA the HOA cannot disallow solar panels
Everyone is saying to run cables, but I’d say to run conduit.
I suggested that as well, especially if you want to upgrade to fiber in the future as well as some pull string in them or mule tape.
Why run two cables instead of one?
Because it shouldn’t cost that much more to do two rather than one, when you’re doing the initial install. And it can cost a fortune later. (4 is even better than 2 ) If I were building a place for myself, with no real budget limitations, I’d be getting raised flooring to make redoing power and cabling easier.
Also, cat 6 is good for more than just ethernet. As people ar saying, you can use converters to take hdmi to cat 6. (It can be done with a single cable, for 1080p. I’m using a set of £30 converters to do it at work, for 10 screens, over around 40 meters.But they’re not running anything but monitoring screens, so I’m unsure what kind of frame rate they’re doing.)
I’m going to run conduit (smurf tube) from the control room to all attic cavities. I think I may also try to run it to the primary TV viewing areas.
I figure the future of TV will be streaming. Cat6 should handle anything that comes out in the next 15-20 years, I would think. I may also set up a few “satellite control rooms”. Like have a closet within 10 feet of the living room TV where I’ll run smurf tube from the TV and have a place I could house a Blu-Ray player and streaming boxes to avoid clutter behind the TV.
When my place was built 15 years ago, I did a pretty good job of making my house smarthome ready. As others have said, you can never run enough cat6. Beyond that, you want power outlets everywhere.
- are you going to have smart blinds? You want power outlets nearby
- do you want to control your door locks? Having power to control the bolts can’t hurt.
- what about your doorbell? You absolutely want wiring and at least low voltage power terminating at the doorbell. Check with your electrician about what’s feasible and up to code. At a minimum you will want at least 3 twisted pairs available.
- don’t forget your garage door. Put a doorbell there too.
- where are your runs terminating? You should have a professional (I found a guy on Craigslist) connect the ports on both ends. This is not a job you want to DIY if you’ve new to crimping. Do you know what type of patch panels you’re going to use? What about switches? Do you have enough ports? You don’t want to underestimate them, but at the same time you don’t want to waste money, do you have enough power outlets nearby? Do you have room for shelves?
- What about overhead lighting? You will want high quality cans that are sealed to prevent heating/cooling loss. I’m not sure what it’s called, but there is some rule about overhead spotlights in terms of the number to use and how they are arranged. I strongly recommend you talk with the architect and ask if he knows anything about this. It should be 101 stuff for him.
Personally I wouldn’t fret about WiFi coverage until after move in. If he has wired cat 6 everywhere he can burn that bridge anytime he wants too, I’d think twice about mounting access points on the ceiling, if only because they aren’t tested that way by the mfg.
I do plan to have smart door locks, although they probably won’t be used much. Most of the foot traffic will go through the garage. I want the smart door locks so I can see the state of the lock and have a “lock all” script. Since the locks are on the movable door, I’m not sure how you could wire power. I thought about installing some kind of electrical contact point on the door frame with another contact point on the door so they connect when the door is closed (like this). But I feel like that may be too much of a hassle, especially running a wire through an insulated metal exterior door from the door lock to the contact point. I’ll just swap batteries once a year. Maybe I’ll run some low voltage wire to the door frame in case I want to take on that project in the future if changing the batteries becomes a pain.
I plan to have a Blue Iris security cam system and am looking at the Amcrest doorbell cam. I plan to run one 22/4 low voltage wire and one cat6 to the doorbell.
Since the garage door will be the main entrance to the house, I’m thinking about taking a smart deadbolt, taking it apart, and just mounting the keypad to the outside of the garage. I’m hoping that I can assign codes to different users (one for me, one for the wife, one for the house cleaner, etc) then when a code is entered on that keypad HA will perform different actions, like open the garage and disarm the house. Then I can set a condition that would only allow some codes (like the house cleaner) to work on certain days. I haven’t been able to find a weather-proof stand alone key pad that I like, which is why I was looking at gutting a smart lock to use the keypad. Since it will be mounted on a stationary wall, I’ll run low voltage wire to it so it has hardwired power.
I’ll have a centrally located control room, probably in the furnace room. I’ll have a rack in there with all my connections, servers, switches, and home theater equipment. The electrical panel will also be in this room so I can run more outlets to the control area, if needed. But I plan to start with three dedicated 20amp lines. I’ll put patch panels on the rack (I’ve done a fair amount of Cat6 terminating). I’m still looking at switches, I’ll need at least one PoE switch for the IP cams. I’m thinking I’ll get one 48 port PoE switch and one 48 port non-PoE. Both unmanaged. I’m still trying to figure out how to mount all the odds and ends, like convertors, Wemos D1 Minis (for the door sensors, etc). My working idea now is a big 4x8 sheet of plywood on the wall where I can mount all the various items. I’d put 2x4s behind the sheet so I can run wires behind the sheet and just pop them out where needed.
I plan to let the electrician guide me on this. I’ll just put smart switches in to control the lights. I do plan on requesting as much separation as possible. For example, if a bathroom has two ceiling can lights, two lights by the mirror, and maybe a light in the shower, I want three light switches. If I want the mirror lights to turn on with the ceiling can lights I’ll let HA handle that. I also plan to have large overhead spot lights for my driveway and the backyard. I’ll rig those up to turn on if the alarm goes off or of there is significant motion on the cameras.
For the overhead it’s something like an odd number of cans, an a triangle configuration, IIRC.
FWIW Simple lock manager will let you setup different codes for each user and allow you to configure each user to a schedule. That should handle you, your wife and your maid. It works with a Schlage zwave lock, however I don’t know if it will work with the deadbolt removed. It might be expecting some amount of pressure in order to function properly. But assuming it does work, you can use that project and when an “unlock” event occurs, you can open your MyQ garage door opener.
Awesome! Thanks for the link and tip. I didn’t consider that the lock would need the deadbolt connected. I’ll have to buy a lock and do some testing.
I’m not saying it does, but it might. My lock died and the company sent me a replacement, and I was trying to set it up before installing it. I thought the lock was defective because the deadbolt wasn’t turning enough. I called support and they said I needed to use the code. After I did that the lock did a setup routine which enabled the full motion range. It wasn’t intuitive, which is why I’m throwing out that caveat.
Nice, but not essential.
My Model S is heading on 4 years and over 300,000 km, just uses the regular home power.
The electrician connected the Destination Charger in the garage to the electric meter box, but no special 3 phase.
About 6 hours from empty to full (one night’s sleep on average, every 2 -4 weeks for 400 kms).
I have since installed 3 phase at home (back breaking digging after ground was professionally safety checked) and takes about 4 hours to charge, minimal difference.
Just charge at the shopping centres who are on 3 phase (4 hours shopping) or super chargers are about 30 minutes (45-60 minutes for larger battery packs), soon to be 15 minutes.
Thanks for low voltage wire link.
I’m looking for retro fit to my existing property. I’ll figure it out.
I dunno about Tesla’s but for other electrics we’re limited to 12A charging which ends up taking 12-16 hours to fully charge (depending on battery size) from 0 or near 0.
@bphillips921 Hi I’m building my house later this year and wondering how yours came out as I have basically the same plans as you. What did you use to control your security system, windows/doors and motion sensors? What did you do for your blinds/shades and whole home audio system?
Is there anything you wish you did different or would change?
I’m still in the framing stages, the house won’t be done until August. I started my planning pretty early.
I’m planning to use HA to control the security system, along with ESP32 boards and ESPhome to handle the door/motion/glass break/etc sensors, all will be hardwired to the mechanical room where the ESP32 boards will be.
I’m still unsure of how I’m going to handle blinds and shades. I’m leaning towards somfy roller blinds. I plan to run a 16/2 wire to every window, I figure that will give me enough wires to power the somfy blinds or the 2 wires needed if I use a DIY solution like Dr. Zzzzs.
I’m still planning on using Google Nest speakers as well as some built in speakers tied to Chromecast devices (with HDMI > Audio extractors) to handle the whole home audio.
Run 16/4 to every window, so you can piggyback on the wire for additional sensors in the future, or run 16/2 and 18/4 together.
Have you seen the ESP32 devices that are power over ethernet from Olimex?