There seems to be some references that the SB53 PAR bulbs are esp826x based and run tasmota find. Whether, a physical flashing will be required is something I have yet to learn. Would be nice of Tuya-convert worked on these. I will give you and update when they arrive and I have a little time to explore.
Info on a similar bulb:
and on the SB53 will older Tasmota, however does not point to how they flashed.
I like the idea of dumb downlights that are dimmable that can work with a zigbee dimmer.
Any tips on what kind of downlights work with zigbee dimmers and what kind of zigbee dimmers I should get? Is it just any zigbee light dimmer that would allow you to dim the power sent to the light? I really only care about controlling the brightness.
Depends. I have an unfinished basement and would like a single light switch to control all the bulbs in the ceiling. Only one bulb on the switch, the other 20 on pull strings across the basement (no switches, different circuits). I’d be happy with an inexpensive, smart, 800 lumens or more 2700K bulb told to turn on by HA when a switch is flipped.
If you can leave the circuits turned on 100% of the time, then you could do this with WiFi or Z-Wave smart lights. Put a smart switch on the wall and write an automation to turn on all of them.
Or do what I just did. When one of them gets power from a dumb light switch, turn all the others on. SOMEONE said smart bulbs are a waste of money, get a smart switch. Ten bulbs, $50 USD. No smart switch needed and would not work in this case anyway.
The smart thing would be to rewire the lights to a single circuit controlled by a single smart switch. But if the OP is in a rental or otherwise unable to rewire the lights, his only solution is to use smart bulbs, leave them powered on and control them from an automation triggered by any smart switch, button or motion/presence sensor.
Not only. You also are producing extra loads of (unnecessary) e-waste. Light bulbs are not lasting nearly as as long as a light switch. Bulbs are usually (maybe not the dubai ones) running extremely hot in the socket were the electronic/power parts are hidden. While in theory bulbs could last much longer (check Philips Dubai lamps) it looks like as of today phoebus is still alive.
Long story short: smart consumable products are not smart
Of course I got side tracked (squirrel !) I had no luck with the software only firmware replacement, so I build a couple versions of clips to hit the needed connection points, not hard to open up the light cover, however the conection points are a bit hard to touch all at same time. But then I got side tracked. When I get back to this project I will post my results.
I noticed some tiny SONOFF 2-way switches on Amazon that you could probably get away with even in a rental property (if the back boxes are deep enough).
If it’s wired up as a 2-way circuit then you have both manual switching at the light switch and smart switching via Zigbee (and neither will disable the other).
Personally I’m tempted to run a fresh 3-core+E cable from the switch into the loft with the switch at one end and one of these at the other - that way I don’t have to worry about clutter in the back box (though, if you don’t live in a bungalow like I do, a deeper back box would be the more accessible option).
I have a few of these in my house. One I flashed with ESPHome, and the rest I connected using SonoffLan.
Sonoff Lan is a custom component for Home Assistant that lets you use Sonoff Devices without changing the eWeLink firmware, and best of all, it doesn’t use the cloud either (except for initial setup).
