This is also credit to @konig who set this all up as a “howdy folk, anyone want to try to work together on this this thing” type project rather than a “Hey everyone, here’s something I built” type thing.
Even with a very loose “project team” and various individual forks/ side-efforts, it’s still interesting to see how it focused collaboration a fair bit.
Thank you @Mahko_Mahko for the kind words 
My ambition when I did that was actually to make a proper open source project where we all worked on a shared product. In hindsight, it’s quite understandable that the default choice is to branch off. It comes with a price to stay on the main branch. You have to conform in one way or another to details in the design, that isn’t something you wished for or like. The benefit of cause is that you get other peoples improvements for free.
Oh, great tip of centralizing the code for multiple pots, I had no idea we could do that.
I’m glad to see you got it working with solar panel, I was thinking about this as well but didn’t go that route yet. It makes me think, one thing I forgot to mention is I also added a USB C adapter to be plugged on mine. Because apart from esp32, I think I only have USB C port at home, so it was less awkward to charge it.
Also regarding your scaling question on GitHub, well it’s not that easy. I’m no expert in fusion360 but I think the proper way of scaling a model on 360 would have been to design the parts with parameters in mind, this way we can easily change specific parts. Instead we copied components which are hard to scale now.
For example when trying to scale the outer shell, it will also scale the hole where we put water in a very wide hole. If someone knows of a better way to scale that, let me know.
I’ve gotten scaling to work with mine. It’s not completely flawless because some of the geometry involved is a little advanced, but for most parts, it got the job done. (until I messed it up with my last edit, apparently - I just tested it again)
It works like this:
I had to start over with my model to get it working as you have to be really disciplined with the geometry in the sketches. If you get just one constraint wrong it all goes sideways and it can be pretty hard to figure out where the error is.
Hey Guys, there is now 219 posts (excluding mine ;-)) - so maybe, since some of you actively followed-up this project, you can give me a TLDR-like short answer:
I have bought all the parts for the original Flaura, including the ESP32.
Now, when I assembled everything, I only then found out (why look earlier 
), that the author has actually made the code something like unusable.
So as a quick question: Anything I can flash to my ESP in order to get it working, which is more or less ready?
BTW: I use IP-Symcon, a very versatile Home-Automation-System.
So I can send basically any kind of command to the ESP, once flashed…
Regards,
Maeffjus
Hi and welcome onboard
The code we use relies on ESPHome, which requires HomeAssistant to function. If you use anything else than that, I think you are looking for a different project than ours.
Thanks Martin!
But if I understood correctly, ESP-Home does not necessarily need HA to work.
I just found this:
ESPHome is a stand-alone firmware project which just has a very good integration in HA and happens to have been bought by Nabu Casa. ESPHome doesn’t require HA to function . You can use the ESPHome API, WebUI or MQTT to read data and/or send commands.…
I managed to flash ESP-Home with the suitable YAML to my ESP with the original PCB, but it will immediately go to deep-sleep.
So how can I access it anyways?
What do you call suitable YAML?
Indeed, you do not need HA, but your hardware config needs to match with the code in the yaml.
Try MathGaming yaml here: GitHub - mathgaming/FlauraHomeAssistant
Or the YAML from my repo: GitHub - MikeBailleul/plantidote-smart-flower-pot
But mine use a different hardware so for sure, you would have to modify the code.
I thin I used another one from this thread, but I would have to look through the posts again to find out 
Anyways, there is some issue I got: The ESP does not turn on, when connected to the PCB.
I have no idea why (with the battery).
I used all the original files and design for it.
Only when I connect the PC it will start, but also it can not be flashed when plugged into the PCB!
To me, it sounds like you have a short somewhere in your PCB. That could cause the ESP to become unresponsive.
This looks like an issue I had when using the original project.
I mentioned it on my github:
“changed the pin used for the button, it was a strapping pin (pin 0) and it caused me a lot of issues while developing the code so I changed it to another one (pin 13).”
Try disconnecting this pin when flashing the board.
I think my pump failed lol. Time to upgrade;)
Hey guys, I fall into the pool of people who made the whole project (including getting the custom PCB and ESP32 from the video). I read through this whole thread and the original one on github and, as I’m not the most proficient with any of this, wanted to clarify a few things. Is there any way I can make my setup work without getting the different board that mathgaming used? I can probably figure out how to use HA but would seriously struggle changing any code. Any help would be appreciated.
@ilikeplants Check the GitHub link serialBuilder posted here: Invitation/project suggestion: An automated potted plant - #215 by serialBuilder
serialBuilder modified my esphome yaml to work with the ESP32 used in the original Flaura project
@mathgaming That still uses a new custom PCB though. Since I have five of the ones the original project called for I was hoping to be able to use those.
You write - I freed one pin and removed one resistor for reading the battery voltage because I discovered that the LolinD32 has a built-in feature for that, but in the code on the GitHub it is not implemented.
I believe it is implemented in the yaml by reading pin 35, here:
- platform: adc
pin: GPIO35
id: ${esp_id}_battery_voltage
name: "${esp_name} battery voltage"
device_class: "VOLTAGE"
unit_of_measurement: "V"
accuracy_decimals: 2
attenuation: 11dB
update_interval: never
filters:
- median:
window_size: 11
send_every: 11
send_first_at: 11
- multiply: 2.0
on_value_range:
below: ${battery_threshold}
then:
- deep_sleep.enter:
sleep_duration: 100000h #forever
- platform: template
id: ${esp_id}_battery
name: "${esp_name} battery"
device_class: battery
unit_of_measurement: '%'
update_interval: never
lambda: |-
for (int i = 0; i < 11; i++) {
id(${esp_id}_battery_voltage).update();
delay(200);
}
float percentage = (id(${esp_id}_battery_voltage).state - $battery_min) / ($battery_max - $battery_min) * 100;
if (percentage > 100) {
return 100;
} else {
return percentage;
}
It is also implemented in the blynk code.
Hello,
I make original Flaura project but with esphome/HA (not working for now). No leak for me but i 'm facing other issues and i’m not yet facing any issues:
LTH7 / LTC4054 on the Lolin32 was dead because of wrong manipulations (led not blinking). I replace it by this item → Solved !
tension divider for battery level is reversed. 33K resistance (R4) need to be on the ground and 100K (R5) on V_BAT. Can you confirm ? → Solved ! Add line “attenuation: auto” in esphome config here the documentation
It’s seems that Lolin32 board ADC can’t convert tension above 1.1V, isn’t it ? cause HA display 1,06V when empty. My capacitive moisture sensor deliver theoretically about 3V, it’s upper than 1.1V ! → Solved : Add line “attenuation: auto” in esphome config here the documentation
Without any water it deliver 1,8V instead of 3V on the multimeter (PETG pot empty serve as electrolyte / interfering with the magnetic field ?) With the pot full of water (what must never happen!) it’s 0.82V and in a Plant pot with medium humidity it’s 1.5V : very different from the video I have a NE555 chip on it: not suitable for 3.3V vcc I need to find a TLC555C instead here the explanations → Solved
Water level: Water level sensor - #7 by AthemiS → Solved
All is working for me now: Here is my ESPHome config for original Flaura forked from Plantidote config