i can print it with pleasure. but that only makes sense for me if the code at least starts to run (because of me also first only with pressing the button and the pump starts briefly). what is the status there?
Sounds great! The code is the latest version, but it isn’t working yet (as you also mention). I just haven’t had the time to get it done. Seems doable, though, but I am new to ESPhome as well.
I’ll be working on it again once I am back from vacation in a week or so. Nick is getting hardware from me (by snailmail - from/to exact oposites of the globe so it’ll take a while). Once he has a functioning pcb, he may start coding as well, I think.
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Yeah it ain’t here yet, but I’m not holding breath. It’ll get here eventually 
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Hey there, I got redirected here from the GitHub repo
I’m looking at the circuit diagram on thingiverse before I order the PCB, can someone explain to me what is the goal of R4, R5 and C2? And how their values were determined?
Also, I looked at the new STLs, really nice job @konig, I might give it a print soon. Btw, could you share the 360 fusion files as well please?
Hi SerialBuilder,
Thank you for the kind words and welcome
No, the original designer (Martin Uhlman is his name, I think) didn’t leave that many notes on his design process. I’ve been wondering about some of the resistors myself. I am also not sure what the purpose is of all of them, so I certainly am in no position to help out with value calculations.
I have added the source fusion file to the repo. Let me know if you have issues with it. It prints ok but be sure to set it to print support, but only touching build-plate or you will potentially get a quite massive lump of plastic. I’ve had issues with the hose connector that sit in the bottom of the chamber where the plant is supposed to go. It is thin, brittle and has a helical pattern in it. My best guess is that it is a slicer bug. Be sure to watch when that part is printed. My current sollution is to print a second connector next to it. That turns out fine and I can just plug the other hole with silicone. If you can come up with a better solution, that would be awesome.
I think some of the others might have a PCB to spare. They mentioned it at least on git. I am not sure if they have enough left. I’ve given a few myself, so I can’t spare anymore, sorry. I ordered here, and it was dirt-cheap: https://www.elecrow.com/
Thanks for the upload and the print details @konig!
I have done a test print (0.8 nozzle to be fast, 8h).
I had no issue with the hose connectors (maybe thanks to the 0.8mm nozzle, I will give a go with a smaller nozzle later). I am using PrusaSlicer to slice, what do you use?
I used support on build plate only but I had 2 issues with this:
- the 3 holes for the water sensor screws were not supported and were printed out of thin air resulting in a mess.
- the hole for the attaching screw holes were filled with support and it’s almost impossible to remove the support inside those tiny holes.
Didn’t you have these problems?
So on my next print, I will use custom supports (add support it for the water sensor screws and remove support for the attaching screws holes.
Other than that, I haven’t received any components yet, so I cannot test anything
I printed in 0.4mm nozzle with custom supports and everything seems ok to me.
The only thing that I don’t like is an ugly seam all around the vase (4/5 layers visible), it’s located where the tank bottom is. I believe it is caused by the change of infill.
Any idea how to prevent this?
I’m testing some different settings on the slicer…
Okay, that sounds promising. Did the hose connector inside the part that is supposed to hold the flower print out ok as well? If so, what slicer and what printer are you using? (cause I had a ton of issues with that!)
Mine has the seam too.
I was thinking I’d design and print a jig for holding the pot in a lathe and then polish the whole thing. it’s quite easy since it is both round and easy to center, and you can get it really nice an shiny with little effort, I think. I never did though, because then it dawned on me, that the ones I’ve printed so far won’t last very long anyway. PLA is compostable (though slowly), so it’s not the best choice of material for a flower pot unless you call it a POC (or coat it - which is a little difficult to do in the current one-piece design, though it might work with a thinned lacquer or epoxy that you swirl around, but nevermind)
I’ve ordered a roll of PETG which should be a much better choice in terms of durability, but not as difficult to work with as ABS or nylon (and also not toxic when heated).
Btw a friend of mine said he’d have a look at making the code. He’s working on it now.
I had absolutely no issue with the hose connectors, printed with a Prusa MK3S+ and I used PrusaSlicer.
Good to hear someone will start working on the code, I might work on it later down the road, is there a repo for that?
Is PLA that compostable? I read that PLA needs high temperature to decompose. Has anyone done water test for a prolonged period of time in a vase? I’m assuming yes given the number of 3D vase available.
Regarding the horizontal seam.
I have isolated the section causing issues and I have done more than 10 test prints varying slicer params and good news, I found 3 ways to prevent the horizontal seam.
The issue is the solid infill, because it is so dense, a bit of over extrusion will make it leaks on the sides creating a seam.
All in PrusaSlicer but I guess it’s doable on other slicers.
Solution 1.
Go to Print settings
Layers & perimeters > Perimeters = 100 (this will replace solid infill with perimeters)
Solution 2.
Go to Print settings
Advanced > Infill/perimeters overlap = 5% (default 25%)
Solution 3 : my favorite (it will replace some solid infill layers with an fill layer of 70% avoiding over extrusion)
Go to Print settings
Layers & perimeters > Solid layers > Top = 1
Layers & perimeters > Solid layers > Bottom = 1
Infill > Fill density > 70%
All these settings can be applied globally but I think it is even better if you apply them locally (only on the few layers that cause the issue).
To do this, right click on the vase > Height range modifier: 33 to 35, from here you can apply one of the solution I mentioned above.
I printed with a 0.4 nozzle in 0.15mm layer height.
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Ok. I used Cura and that hose connector kept giving me a ton of grief.
Makes sense with the water sensor screws. They are within the footprint of the lower part of the pot, so naturally, they won’t get any of the “touching buildplate”-support. It’s fixable. I’ll look into it. and upload a new version.
The most pessimistic estimates from the internet tells me that PLA will last 45-90 days in an aquarium which is similar conditions, at least when it comes to the magazine. The sollution is printing in PETG. It also absorbs water but much slower, and it doesn’t become brittle in the same way when it does. It’s not to hard to print with I’m told which isn’t too hard to do, I’m told. It’s even a bit cheaper.
Is it possible to save a print with settings in PrusaSlicer? If so, it would make it much easier for newcomers if we upload such a file to git.
Regarding the water sensor screws, I found a feature on PrusaSlicer which is super cool: paint on support. You can just click faces to add support on it and it worked perfect.
However I noticed the bottom plate in your model is not correctly aligned with the holes for the button and cable, it should be rotated by about 60 degrees.
And yes, it’s a great idea I was thinking about uploading a .3mf file, which is the prusa file sliced with settings so it would just be a click of a button to print
Funny. I’ll fix the rotation issue and upload again (wonder how that happened!)
-Martin
I was looking at the code on GitHub and found the answer my question.
// voltage divider with 100KOhm and 33KOhm. Resistor used to reduce maximum voltage at this pin (3.4V to 3.33V)
Hi!
I’ve been reading thru the majority of this thread and the one on Github. I got interested in this from a video on tiktok. Then I started google-ing and now finally found this. I have a Ender 3 s1 and would love to help out with the project. Especially as i am writing my “final assignment” of swedish high school. I chose this as it seemed interesting. But, i now found out that it is not yet complete, right? I need to be done by the winter break, starting December 20:th. I would love to help out as much as possible but I would also love if you guys (who seem to love this project) could help me out a bit :). As I am making this i need to build it. If anyone could, when possible and complete with the project (atleast having it work as intended) help me out to make this and present. I would love it!
I do not want to sound “pushy” and its more than okay if this is not possible. Either way, I would love to help out as much as possible.
Thank you guys!
Kind regards, Elliot
Welcome Elliot,
Martin has been working on the 3D model.
I am trying to assemble, test and see if everything is ok.
Maybe you could try to help on the code?
@konig do you have any idea how to prevent water leakage from the water sensor screws? I am having leakage in this part right now.
Hi!
Only know basic python but would love to learn C. It will take some time tho… did you use silicon at the screws and/or creases?
How far along are you guys? Is the project like, well, working? Or atleast close to it or is it a lot left?
I have ordered some silicon and will try it out.
Right now, it’s not working.
A small update on where I am.
Printing the vase as a whole seems to work, no leak except for the sensor screws (to be fixed soon).
In the part list video, the original author explains that he chose the Lolin32 1.0 over the more recent Lolin D32 because it was harder to find the recent one due to chip crisis.
For me it was the opposite, I could not find the Lolin32 and I ordered the Lolin D32 (which someone also recommended in this thread I think).
I just received the Lolin D32 and I now have 2 problems:
- the pins are completely different so I will have to redesign the PCB and re-order.
- the length of the board and the connector for the battery is positioned differently so the bottom cutout of the vase also needs a bit of redesign to fit this board.
For 1, I will need to learn how design PCB as I’ve done that so it could take some time.
For 2, it should be quite easy to do.
Any other people in here who ordered the Lolin D32 instead of the Lolin 1.0?
EDIT: good news, I just realised that the Lolin D32 directly include a way to read the battery voltage, so it is possible to simplify the PCB and remove C2, R4 and R5 and free pin 32 which are all used to get the battery voltage.
The battery voltage thing is a bonus. Less wire:ing I suppose. Let us know on the silicon and with the PCB redesigning, if you still need to. Do the “new” board have all other functions that is needed?
The board that the original author used is actually discontinued. So the new one is an upgrade, so same but better.
Also, for point number 2, I think there is no need to change the 3D model, we can just shift the pins a bit when plugging the board into the PCB.
The battery voltage pin allow for less wiring, components and way less lines of code. 
That’s great!
I am looking into a way to make the pot “bigger” to house bigger plants. But I feel like bothe the “pot” part and the water part needs to expand as the plant will require more water than small plats. I am a bit unsure tho on how to still keep the bottom part as the same size as before as the parts still need to fit. It will ofcourse need more tubing and such but it still need to “go together”. As I can not help much with the code part, is there anything I can do that is acually helping out as what I am doing atm is not really making it “work faster” if you know what I mean…