I have been asked about my hardware configuration and thought I would share it with the community. It has been over a year and working quite well. Here are the details on my setup and the components used along with the suppliers.
Overview
For the record I am not affiliated in anyway with the suppliers listed below - I don’t earn a brass razoo from any of them. They simply had stuff I liked and bought at list price. They wouldn’t know me from a bar of soap. I have included the product description and photo as web links often get broken. As always shop around as things change.
The goal was to run a 24V supply line around the garden and drive irrigation and lighting from this feed. DC is used for most garden LED lighting however irrigation valves generally use AC. The solution was to source 24VDC valves which was not as difficult as first thought, see below.
There a just three components.
- Zigbee relay
- Count down timer (dead man switch)
- 3 position switch (auto, off, manual).
The dead man switch is because I am paranoid but my fears are well founded as there have been two occasions in about 6 months where the off signal has been lost. Communications, be it WiFi, Zigbee, ZWave etc. is not perfect and gives some thought for consideration.
Some level of soldering is required but it is fairly basic. Zigbee relay is on the right and dead man switch to the left. Blue tack holds the boards in place.
Been in place a year or so now and working fine, there are eight like this. Yep, that’s spider poo, they get into everything including my weather station rain gauge perched some 6 meters up on a pole. They seem to do no harm but consider silicon around the hole.
Wiring diagram
I hope my back of coaster diagrams make sense.
Zigbee relay
1CH Zigbee 3.0 Smart Light Switch Module DC 7/12/32V RF433 Receive 10A Relays Tuya Smart Life APP Work with Alexa Google Home
The timer
DC 24V LED Digital Time Delay Relay PLC Cycle Trigger Timer Relay Control Switch Anti Reverse Timing Delay Opto Isolated
Understanding the documentation can be challenging. You want mode P-2, T1=zero and T2 the max time.
The case
ABS SEAL BOX 115X65X55 WITH FLANGE G308MF
These are an IP65 enclosure. The mounting flanges are great as you don’t have to penetrate the case or tie it on somehow. I use a couple of 12g 30mm hex head screws to secure it to timber. The boxes are mounted vertically with the wires (power in and valve out) egress through the bottom.
The switch and boot
SPDT Centre-Off Miniature Toggle Switch - Solder Tag
Rubber Boot with Seal to suit Mini Toggle Switch
The Valve
I obtained the valves from Valves Direct. There is a build your own valve but if you call them there are a few more options such as my 3/4” BSP Male in and 19mm straight barb out and 24VDC. I found them really helpful.
Good luck